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John Cribbin

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  1. Good news a nice simple fix. If only everything could be sorted for a tenner!
  2. Well if you have damaged the clip it's an easy fix. Your guy will either unsolder the whole battery leads, or cut and resolder a new clip. Look on the bright side, better it failed before you go than during the trip.
  3. Yep, just what I thought you'd find. You have USA spec pots fitted, probably 95% + of splined pots over here are Asian spec, that's why the knobs won't fit. About a year ago I was planning to upgrade a PJ bass with CTS pots. Of the thousands of knobs to suit a jazz bass, the only 24 spline knobs I could find were original Fender ones at several times the price of Asian spec ones. I gave up on that plan. The set screw solution is actually pretty sensible IMHO.
  4. Have a look inside and see what brand of pots you have. If there's not to much solder you should be able get the part number as well. Then a Google search will give you the spec of the pots.
  5. OK, something was bugging me with the symptoms. The only way the tuners could get in the audio chain are if they are in the circuit via the ground wire from the bridge, or possibly some weird signal getting into the pickups. From your photo, I don't like that jack socket one little bit, I don't think Ibanez did that work. Normally, the cable would be clamped to the long leg of the socket with the two lugs being bent over. The lugs look like they may have been bent open to remove the cable. The long leg looks twisted and possibly shorting on one of the other lugs. I'd straighten that leg and make sure nothing is touching. Being polite, that type of socket is junk and well known for failure. Maybe someone had a previous problem and poked about? Just in case there is a weird pickup issue, you could use the blend to use one pickup at a time and see if that removes the buzz.
  6. Have you tried a fresh battery? I like to eliminate the easy stuff before to much head scratching happens!
  7. On some forums, there are those stating that the Pure Tone, are better built and will last longer than the Switchcraft. Now considering that there's plenty of kit out there with their original working Switchcraft jack's from the 1950's, that's a pretty brave if not ridiculous position to take. If I make it to 120+, the longevity of a jack socket will be the last thing on my mind. In the meantime, I'll live with stuff that's been tried and tested for longer than I've been alive.
  8. I don't know your amp, or how brave you are .... The sort of problem you describe is very often heat related. A less than secure connection heats up and suddenly contact is lost. A lot of electrical gear these days is hooked up with ribbon connectors, these have a great history of working loose. Personally. I'd pop the lid and push on all the connectors and make sure everything is seated properly. Obviously, taking precautions not to connect yourself directly to the mains. Check for loose screws, sometimes power modules can be bolted to the case as an additional heat sink. Never heard of the 4x2 test, but the drop test was a very common way to 'repair' electrical products and possibly still is.
  9. For a one off item Ebay is probably the best start, usually get a price including delivery. Problem with a lot of stores is the minimum postage is often more than the item.
  10. It's under warranty and defective - Return it. So if you open it up, play around and it still doesn't work, what then? Send it back only to be told, you've tampered with it and voiding the warranty. It's a mechanical foot switch that has failed under warranty, ain't no 'fair wear and tear' nonsense about it. Probably spec'd to have at least 100k activations. Your rights are covered by the Sale of Goods Act.
  11. I do have a preference for nut material but ...... Whatever you use, it only comes into play when playing open strings, once you fret a note the nut material isn't part of the equation.
  12. Off the wall suggestion .... How about a tilt switch? When the guitar is vertical on a stand, it turns off. In the playing position, it turns on.
  13. I'll tick the Dremel type multi tool as well. Don't use mine very often, but it's got me out of more than one hole when nothing else will do.
  14. Try Axecaster for the Switchcraft one. The one fitted is junk.
  15. Personally I would have gone with Telecaster type knobs, ie held on with grub screws, but .... No, no way, never superglue. Once upon a time I inherited a shower unit where the knobs must have come loose in the past. The owner 'solved' the problem with superglue. Had to destroy the knobs to service it, so if you're not that bothered ... PTFE tape might work, I've used a bit of paper in the past, you just need to increase the grip a bit.
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