nilebodgers

I liked “In the Evening”, can’t remember anything else.

I was there, but for the life of me I can't remember which of the two days it was or much about it apart from a cool laser pyramid lighting effect on one of the Zep songs. Forty two years ago is a blinkin long time.

If it’s strictly a fun thing rather than a money making thing then putting up with any BS is a lot less palatable. Only the OP can decide if they can stand to work with a clown like that guitarist when they really don’t have to.

LOL - it reads like that. Although the guitarist sounds more like a 10 year old. When I retired this year, that was the end of my duty to deal with unreasonable and offensive people (i.e. clients). That tantrum episode would have been followed by my immediate resignation if I hadn't already gone due to the persistent volume issues and song arrangement comedy.

I wonder if after a few years YouTube archives old video into a highly compressed lower resolution (smaller file) version?

18db/octave is logical as that can be done with one opamp. 24db/Oct needs 2 opamps so a budget-oriented design is more likely to be 18.

The problem with Chain Reaction now is that they have almost identical stock to Wiggle at almost identical prices, so they aren’t a real alternative like they used to be. I agree service is very good from both.

Yes, Wiggle are good. I also use Chain Reaction, Evans, Cyclestore, Merlin and Tredz. I’ve had a good few chains and tyres from ebay stores, but I don’t usually buy things that might need returning off ebay.

Amazon win on delivery no doubt and their returns system is great. They just don’t seem to be really competing in the bike space as the prices are so much higher.

Interesting. I buy quite a lot of bike consumables and clothing and Amazon never have what I want at a lower price than the online bike shops like Wiggle.

When I started buying basses again after a long layoff I looked again at straplocks. My old Yam bass had schallers, but I had used extra long screws and threadlock compound on the strap fittings to stop them coming loose. This was ok and secure, if a bit squeaky. When I saw the new buttons had a captive screw I didn’t even try them, I knew that would be a problem so went straight to Dunlops.

Yes. A passive DI reduces the signal level down to something that works well with a microphone input. The loss is usually -20dB (one 10th) with 1:10 transformers.

Anyone spot the motorcycle and customised sidecar in the background of one of the pics?

Cocktail stick plus Titebond/PVA wood glue works like a charm.

When I was working in conference event production one of our clients (a large European bank) used one of these systems (SAP Ariba). It was a massive ball ache to invoice a job as the kind of things we were doing didn’t fit the process and required a messy kludge with many traps that would cause the invoice to be rejected. I don’t miss having to deal with that sort of nonsense.

It’s such a nice bit of playing with the perfect tone for the song. Also - Lots of guitarists can play the guitar part, but I’ve not heard one yet that can do a convincing Kossoff vibrato.

No, that would be nuts. Basses are for playing.

Yes, isn’t that what you said your 0.3mm was, “first fret clearance”?

That would be buzz city for me. I’ve got 0.5mm - 0.6mm on all my basses. (first fret clearance)

Has the cable got a semiconducting layer? It’s usually a black layer in between the core and the shield and it can be easy to let it touch the core if you aren’t careful. You can end up with a high resistance short between hot and earth and a much increased cable capacitance that can make the cable sound very strange. (look at Van Damme Pro Grade Classic XKE Instrument Cable for an example)

(retired) Engineer here too - I have to measure it, it's a compulsion.

Things like the Stewmac neck jig pull the neck straight to level frets even though the truss rod is left at normal tension. I don’t have a jig, but I used a fret rocker to prove to myself that the problem was only there if the neck was curved, the truss rod tension wasn’t a factor. A plek machine should be able to level with the truss rod at full tension and the neck curved though, that would be the best result. I’d have bought a new neck for my cheap mim bass though if I wanted to keep it, it’s value didn’t warrant a pro luthier or machine attention.

https://fendercustomersupport.microsoftcrmportals.com/en-us/knowledgebase/article/KA-02007

That’s very interesting. I thought I was going nuts when I was chasing the problem. I did a full level, crown and polish with the neck dead straight and the fretwork was spot-on, but as soon as I put the neck back on the bass and strung it up the upper frets were buzzing. I’d read about the ski slope problem and this was in the same place, but the fact that it was a dynamic effect under tension and not static like a simple rise in the fretboard made it something different that I’d not seen mentioned before. I improved it, but couldn’t completely fix it. Maybe a tool that could level frets under full tension like the Katana system might have sorted it, but I suspect that neck wouldn’t have been stable long-term with a lower action.

0.3mm / 12thou is a typical relief spec. so not unusual at all. 2.5mm at 17th fret should be easy if the fretwork is ok unless played very hard. Hellzero makes a good point, my mim p-bass needed the upper frets dressing slightly to get the best action and that didn't have the ski-slope problem. I also had a mim j-bass that had a ski-slope that only showed up when the neck was under full string tension, so conventional levelling wouldn't fix it. I did my best to cure that by spot-levelling under tension and I made it acceptable at the Fender factory spec (6/64in), but the action would never go lower on that bass and it wasn't worth a pro luthier looking at it so I moved it on.