Beer of the Bass

At least the seller's name is refreshingly honest. Would you expect good workmanship from a guy called badworker1?

I have had reasonable results using non-matched valves (mine were two matched pairs) on a four-valve power stage. I just used one of each pair on each side to keep things roughly symmetrical, then checked the bias using a bias probe to check that none of them were exceeding 70% dissipation at idle. If you have a bias probe or a friend with one there would be no harm in going for this approach with some new 6L6s, and if the bias checks out OK you wouldn't need to do anything else. You might well get away with just sticking in new 6l6s and checking visually that non of them are red-plating, but this would be a little more risk-taking that I would go for personally. If any of them turned out to be running too hot you may need to tweak the bias supply. I would think the R9/R14 network would be the area to look at if the bias turns out to need adjusting.

Fine, but in your first reply you also said these things: [quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1386089716' post='2295590'] Fixed bias means that the bias is fixed, and therefore won't need to be adjusted when you change the valves. In other words, you can change the valves yourself without having to take it to a Valve Amp Technician. [/quote] [quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1386089716' post='2295590'] Beacuse of this, you should also be able to use pretty much any octal base (8 pin) power valves (6L6, EL34, KT66, KT77, 6550, etc). [/quote] This gives exactly the opposite impression to the last quote about taking it to a tech. I'm a bit concerned that you have a basic misconception about the meaning of the term "fixed bias" and that you could be passing on this misconception. There is a good explanation of the different types of bias here; [url="http://www.aikenamps.com/WhatIsBiasing.htm"]http://www.aikenamps.com/WhatIsBiasing.htm[/url]

[quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1386171911' post='2296719'] But as I understand it, and one of the reasons that I bought this particular amp in the first place (as well as it being incredibly versatile, sounding superb, and being built in the UK), was the fact that because it is a fixed bias design, it enables the end user to change the power valves themselves, without having to take the amp to a tech. This particular amp works in both Class A and Class AB(1), and can be switched between classes and valve configurations to acheive a range of tones and outputs, from family friendly single ended operation to pummeling your eardrums at gigs. But, one of the great features of this amp, is that you can use pretty much any octal valve (still have to be in matched pairs), and it'll still sound superb. And I have tried it a few times, with no detriment to the amp or the volume, through this experimentation though, I found that it sounded best with the stock EL34's. [/quote] What sort of amp are we talking about here? I still think it sounds like you're talking about a cathode-biased amp, which can be considered "self adjusting" to some extent. I wouldn't like to suggest to the OP that he could swap any octal valve into his Alphabass with impunity (without adjusting anything), as that may not be the case.

[quote name='RandomBass' timestamp='1386109305' post='2296034'] Blimey that's a 5 year jump in posts. Still the same old discussions though. [/quote] Wow, I didn't notice that!

It's been a few years since I've owned one, but from the times I've used Ashown stuff as supplied backline or in rehearsal rooms, I've always like the simpler preamp in the MAG amps better than the ABMs and EVOs. Is it just me?

[quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1386089716' post='2295590'] Fixed bias means that the bias is fixed, and therefore won't need to be adjusted when you change the valves. In other words, you can change the valves yourself without having to take it to a Valve Amp Technician. [/quote] Not meaning to be contrary, but you may have the terms confused a little. Fixed bias means that the bias is set by applying a negative voltage to the grid, which in many amplifiers is adjustable. The bias voltage [i]does[/i] need to be adjusted when changing between differently spec'd valves, and it is prudent to check the bias even when replacing valves with the same type. The other common configuration is Cathode Bias, where the bias is set using resistors from the cathode to ground. Cathode bias is more forgiving of variance in the valves (within reason), not usually adjustable and I suspect the amp you are describing which can use a range of valves without adjustment is of this type.

[quote name='lojo' timestamp='1386089130' post='2295574'] unless some of these bands rehearse it, not totally out of the question these days with how contrived some performances are [/quote] Indeed. I can't help but feel the whole thing is a bit trite nowadays, especially when done by a few of of the artists listed in the OP who have not been truly rebellious or edgy for some years.

I would advise contacting Peavey for the service manual, as they're usually very helpful. I'd be surprised if there was no bias adjustment in there. The term fixed bias usually means that the bias is set by applying a negative voltage to the valve, not that there is no adjustment. If it really does have no adjustment, then it should be possible to have a trimmer added, if it's a fixed bias amp.

I like the Blackface and Silverface Fenders a lot, but couldn't afford the sort of price the originals or reissues go for. I got around this by building my own, which is a copy of a blackface Princeton Reverb as far the the circuitry goes, but with much more homemade looking cosmetics. There are some pics in another thread on here; [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/203145-valve-amplifiers-only-no-hybrids-valve-pre-amps/page__view__findpost__p__2039969"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/203145-valve-amplifiers-only-no-hybrids-valve-pre-amps/page__view__findpost__p__2039969[/url]

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1385937557' post='2293968'] Bungees can be useful, too, as long as the instrument is protected from the hooks... [/quote] Yes, I've used various stretchy, bungee type materials to clamp up seams when re-gluing them (with hide glue, of course). It's a lot easier with the proper clamps though, which you can either buy from Dictum in Germany or make your own with threaded rod, wingnuts and small circles of wood with a hole through the middle and cork or leather on one side. Anything more critical than a short length of seam I would take to a luthier, but as long as you use hide glue you can't really do much harm gluing seams yourself AFAIK.

How well does the "amp emulation in a pedal" idea work in front of an actual amp with its own voicing and character? I always wonder if it might end up over-egging the pudding a little, though I imagine a midrangey tweed emulation in front of a slightly scooped BF/SF Fender could be quite useful.

[quote name='Jack' timestamp='1385913355' post='2293520'] I wonder how many taxi rides you'd get for the price of running a 125cc scooter on a CBT? Personal freedom and mobility is a fantastic thing. I live in the countryside and drive a truck but even if I lived somewhere where I couldn't have a car I'd have a scooter. [/quote] I can't think of a bass cab I'd take on a scooter though!

I have a habit of practicing through my guitar amp at home (quietly!), and I do think guitar speakers often have something interesting sounding going on the upper mids which I like. I presume it's some kind of cone breakup thing which is designed out of more capable bass speakers. For the gigs I do though, I can't imagine getting sound guys to co-operate with a dual amp setup. Most of them just want a DI in front of the amp.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1385829755' post='2292638'] It happens quite often that people recite, as opinion, stuff they read on TalkBass or heard someone say down the pub. [/quote] I don't mind that so much, just as long as it is presented as opinion. I'm less keen when those regurgitated opinions are presented as FACT (usually in block capitals), as "myths debunked" or as some sort of pseudo-scientific "proof" in a discussion. This is a common ocurrence on a number of internet forums. I've nothing against a bit of conjecture in a discussion if it's not masquerading as anything else.

I'm still waiting for mine (not a gripe about Status - they've let me know what's going on, gave me the option to cancel and haven't charged my card yet), so last night I decided my tapewounds had become too dead and stuck on a set of Dunlop nickel roundwounds I had lying around for a gig. Doing a gig with roundwounds for the first time in more than a year was quite interesting. I still don't like the feel of rounds, and I like the sound for certain things and not others. With a pick I could be quite happy with the sound of rounds, but fingerstyle or palm-muted they don't quite do it for me. I'm still hoping the half-rounds are a reasonable halfway house...

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1385726277' post='2291531'] I don't know how anyone gigs without access to a car or van. [/quote] It's feasible, as long as you live in the town you gig in. Parking in my city is a nightmare anyway, especially if you need to be at the venue before 6.30. We do it by using house amps (when available), by depending on the venue PA or by using whatever compact setup we can transport. I do drive, but since I don't own a car I use the city car club or rentals when I need one. A well paying gig will justify that, especially if it's out of town, but otherwise I'll take the MB200/Wizzy setup along.

For non-car gigs, I use an EA Wizzy 10 cab with a GK MB200 head. These fit in a cajon bag which I can sling over my shoulder and it's fine for hopping on and off buses. I do sometimes walk to and from gigs with it, but it's still around 20lbs so not everyone may want to do that. The volume works for the sort of level my band plays at (this is with Jen and the Gents, link below), if the room isn't too large and I'm realistic about the amount of deep lows I can use.

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1385642256' post='2290536'] Thanks for that I may try these some time as I like more thump and not so much of a bright "twang" for want of a better word will have a good hard think about this as I am never happy with my strings I have tried lots of brands but none have really clicked with me I am using Picato strings at present and must admit I do like them I always used to use Ernie Ball strings but went off them as I did not think the price matched the quality. It is most likely in my head I am a nightmare always chopping and changing strings lol [/quote] You might want to go all the way to flats and see how you like those first. It's a bit like Goldilocks sampling porridge...

Has your bass got the bass-cutting series capacitor on the bridge pickup like the the 4001 does? If not, that might be worth a try for an alternate two-pickup sound with less scooped mids. I have one on a push-pull switch on my bass (even though it's not a Rick) and it removes a lot of the interaction between the two pickups in the mids and lows, leaving you with similar low-end to the neck pickup alone but a lot more high mids and treble. It would be a lot cheaper than trying new pickups, so I think it would be worth experimenting with.

[quote name='eddiehoffmann' timestamp='1385496400' post='2289026'] How did it go with the Status halfwounds? I so want you to tell me the strings were all good! [/quote] I'll let you know when they get here! I had an email on Monday, letting me know they were back in stock and I think they put them in the post yesterday.

I would say that the only important parameter for a tone control capacitor is the capacitance. The value affects the frequency above which the tone control starts sending signal to ground, with larger values starting at a lower frequency and thus sounding darker as the tone is turned down. This is worth experimenting with to find the value that does what you want. The voltage rating is unimportant here, as it is just a recommended maximum at which the capacitor can be used. Guitar signal is in the range of a few hundred millivolts, so any available voltage rating is fine. Capacitor composition can be a touchy subject on forums, leading to interminable multi-page "mojo" versus "science" threads. I have yet to hear anything to convince me that it makes a difference in a tone control, when comparing between capacitors of equal value.

I haven't used the B3, but I use a Zoom H4n recorder to practice guitar with headphones. Some of the bass amp simulations on the H4n sound good for guitar (particularly the Bassman and Superbass models) and I like them just as well as the "guitar" patches, so I'd guess that the amp simulations on the B3 would be as good or better than those.

That's an excellent result, and I'm impressed that the guys at Velvet did that when the strings were bought used. I had a similar breakage issue with Thomastik Dominants a few years ago, with two of them from one set breaking at the peghead, and Thomastik didn't even answer my email.