shoulderpet

I have always found soldering to the back of a pot to be tricky, I found a couple of cheat methods on Youtube and wondering if these can work, hoping someone more knowledgeable than me can advise Method 1 - This method I saw the person said you solder to some copper tape, the copper tape then gets attached to the back of the pot, does this work? Is this a good way of attaching ground wires and could this also work with capacitors which usually have one of there legs soldered to the back of the pot, could you solder the one leg of the capacitor to the copper tape and then attached that to the pot? Method 2 - In this method the person soldered a thin guitar string from one lug of the pot to the back of the pot, does this work? could you use this method to attach a ground wire by soldering the ground wire onto the string rather than the back of the pot(I am guessing it needs more direct contact with the pot)? Can you use this method to attach a capacitor by soldering the capacitor onto the string rather than the back of the pot? Thank you

I have a few 1. If I buy a bass and the setup is good, action is low and no buzz then I wont even bother checking the neck relief, I will give the truss rod a quarter turn to check it turns and then give it a turn to revert it back. 2. If I buy a bass and the setup is good, action is low and no buzz and I dont hate the stock strings then I will try and find out what strings it has on it already so that I can either but the same or buy something with the same tension so I dont have to adjust the neck 3. I dont bother with intonation above the 5th fret on the E string, the other strings I do but unless you are playing a Fodera then the E string does not sound pretty when you play high up the neck 4. My knowledge of theory is pretty much non existent There are more but I will leave it at that

So I received my transparent pickguard, unfortunately the screw holes are in the wrong place if it was a solid colour pickguard I would probably just drill new holes but as its transparent sadly I cant do that. I have decided that I am going to get a bunch of cheap pots, jacks and capacitors and use these to practice my soldering on, I have a spare P pickup that I can use to test that the wiring all works, I will continue to use solderless components in the meantime but I feel like learning to solder is probably an invaluable skill to have.

Thanks

Seymour Duncan SPB-2 Hot pickup, lots and lots of low mids, lots of warmth in the lows and somewhat rolled off highs, I'm a fingerstyle player but I think that pickup would sound great with a pick

Yes the treble bleed requires a 0.001 value, I was just curious to see if I could make a capacitor work by putting the legs of the capacitor into the solderless connections

How much work are you considering putting into this? On the Gibson Les paul tribute short scale under the pickup cover they have wired 2 single coil P pickups (like the 51 p bass) together in series, might be a cool idea if you can find a couple of single coils that will fit under the pickup cover https://youtu.be/qkp0unbtYsE?t=550

OMG Again!!!! Man I am whizzed for you, I would try Retrovibe https://retrovibe.co.uk/product/artec-ebc4-cr-mudbucker-30k-for-eb3-eb0-project-bass-pickup/

I am currently using a solderless pot for the volume, I have done a mock up using the stock capacitor that came with this bass (obviously I would be swapping this for the .001 cap), I am a bit of novice with wiring, would this work? Normal colour scheme (black is ground, white is hot) and each leg of the capacitor is going into the solderless connection for pickup hot and ground wires. Just for sh!ts and giggle I gave this a try with the stock Harley benton treble cut capacitor that they use and the volume functioned as a volume control but with the tone rolled off The back of the pot looks like the below (I had to disconnect the pickup wires to get a better picture) I noticed that the lug on the end is not pushed back and soldered to the back of the pot like it is in the treble bleed diagram from your post , the red wire is not attached to anything and I have covered the end of it with electrical tape so it is not making contact with anything

Thanks, I will add treble bleed to my "to do list"

Thanks, it is normal on a single pickup bass? I noticed as I turn down the volume it sounds like of like I have a tone pot that has been turned down about halfway which is odd as I have no tone pot at all

Ok so 1 mod completed, after trying a couple of different wiring configurations I decided to just go with 1 volume no tone for the brightest tone possible without wiring direct to the output jack. Tim at Gig.ink cut the new control plate for me. Tonally this beast is bright, lots of growl and treble on tap. I have a transparent pickguard on the way which will cover up the screw holes but still keep the red finish visible I tried the Kiwi polish trick on the neck but I ended up removing it with some alcohol shortly afterwards as it barely took to most of the neck but on the edges of the neck it left a red stain 🤮 I have been looking into replacement necks and I am considering getting one of the Northwest P bass necks, a Tele style headstock would be nice but is by no means a deal breaker, it is more the pale satin finish that bugs me, I have always been a vintage tint gloss kind of person Ok just noticed that whilst the tone is lovely and bright with the volume on full it gets noticeably darker as the volume is rolled off, is this normal?

Hi I have a bass that I suspect has the nut cut a little high, I searched but could not find anything, basically I am wondering what the action at the 1st fret should be, hoping someone can help, thanks

The way I think about the pricing is that with the MIM Fenders with the Player series you have what is basically Fenders "entry level" instrument ie the cheapest instruments available that will carry the Fender name, ime the Player series is basically comparable to the cheaper Squiers, maybe slightly better quality but not a world of difference and at this price point you are pretty much just paying for the name. When you go up in pricing to Vintera and Classic 50's these basses are a tonne better than the Player series, better necks, hardware, pickups the lot. The player plus series is also better than the standard Player series but I would take the Vintera or the Classic 50s over these . This is all imo and based on my experience only, I had a chance recently to play a load of Fenders/Squiers from the entry level Squiers up to the more expensive MIM Fenders

What are your thoughts on the aftermarket pickups you have tried? The stock pickup is decent but it seems to be a clone of the Duncan Quarter pounder so probably not the most traditional single coil tone, Herrick are probably not either but there promise of a brighter tone with added treble with the Neodymium pickup is intriguing.

Tbh I have never played a bass where the hum has been an issue, as you say it's usually drowned out by all the other sounds

Yeah that is a bit confusing, I wonder if they got the eq mixed up with the vintage wound scpb1, people usually think of vintage pickups as being bassy but in reality that are often fairly full range and bright. I haven't had a chance to use the PB-50 in a live setting or rehearsal yet so I think that will be the test for the hum, I know there are stacked coil 51 pickups that are meant to address this but my hunch is that they will change the fundamental character of the 51 pickup

Thanks, that is good to know, funnily enough the Duncan SCPB-2 is one I am interested in, it is a hot pickup but Duncans Eq specs say that this pickup has strong treble response which is something that appeals to me

Ok after looking on the Seymour Duncan website it appears there single coil P pickup is also 84.94mm (or 3.344" as it says on the website) so it would appear it is Herrick that is a slightly different size to standard spec

Just wondering if anyone has done a pickup swap on a Harley Benton pb-50? Is the pickup a standard length(will for example a Duncan single coil p pickup fit?) Roswell says it is 84.94mm in length and just looking at Herrick pickups and there single coil p pickup is 87mn in length, my guess is the Roswell is slightly different to standard spec but I could well be wrong Am asking as the pickup route is very tight in terms of space, there is no wiggle room at all

I share this sentiment regarding there amps,a place that my band uses to rehearse has Ashdown amps and I'm sure some people get great tones out of Ashdown amps but I can never get enough top end out of them, it always seems to sound like the highs are rolled off regardless of how I set the controls on the amp

So looking for some wiring ideas, I found the below diagram which is supposedly for a bass cut, does this look correct?

Jesus, why not just use lighter strings

Apparently he plays really softly so most of the pressure would be on his fretting hand, still an incredible amount of string tension though