Bridgehouse

Done!

My jam day is all systems go for the 24th - can it get to me just before for it?

Ugh. Me no likey the look of that at all.

John’s retroB and uni-pre can be made to fit most basses so pretty much anything

Jon Haire is very good - recommended as well

I have to sneak into the kitchen so Mrs B doesn’t catch me nicking all the pads from under the sink

Make sure you use really high quality super fine wire wool - I’ve seen necks with bit of the wool fibre stuck in there and it’s quite nasty!

John’s preamps are so good that I’d say go for as good as you can get - and don’t forget the better the pickups the better the sound!

You can dull the finish of tru oil with something like micro mesh (very fine grades) or lapping paper - but it won’t truly feel like bare wood. Even the impregnated acrylic finishes don’t. Untreated the wood is more likely to mark or discolour, so it’s always best to have a finish on of some description

Now if line 6 would do a powered helix in a 4u rack size....

I bet a passive frfr cab with a built in 2/4u rack mount would be a killer as well...

^ I concur! I really like the idea of a truly flat passive bass cab that can bring out the tonal flavour of an amp. My original thread was probably badly titled - but in the guitar/bass world frfr (rightly or wrongly) seems to be universally used to describe an active speaker that offers a full range and flat response for modelling amps. Having said that, the guitar works now has some impressive passive cabs that can be used with powered modelling amps.

That’s interesting - didn’t know they had a higher input level. I must admit on most amps I have used I find keeping eq flat or off to provide the best tonal performance.

I always thought you were meant to turn input volume up to “just below where it starts to clip” - or is full on with clipping part of the successful formula?

Welcome! As a long term sufferer of Dipas we are all here to help and support you, brother

I wonder if the term Hifi has been purloined to describe home stereo system speakers and that old “home Hifi” term whereas in fact it should be different - after all high fidelity should mean faithful reproduction of the original which it sometimes doesn’t!

I think nearly all reasonable studio monitors are flat - certainly mine are and they weren’t particularly expensive - but I’ve had a few home Hifi speakers which definitely weren’t flat - they were bass heavy and a bit mid scooped

Absolutely - even some studio monitors seem a bit coloured to me. You have to pay a lot of cash to get true reference monitors - and actually home Hifi speakers in the lower price brackets are often the worst offenders for colouring sound!

Older seems to take longer to dry properly I find - or even that it doesn’t quite dry as strongly or properly. That’s just my limited experience of it though!

I’ve used the k10.2 in a rehearsal room with a drum kit and with 3 guitars into 3 guitar amps - mostly valve combos in the 50w range but all capable of being very loud if needed. The k10.2 was fine. I wouldn’t have wanted to have to give it much more oomph, but it was more than enough for the Jam session I was playing in.

Crafted in China. Wrecked in Cardiff..

Presumably if nobody buys it we could pile round there and claim salvage rights..?

Controversial! Are you listing “body” under personal preference? (I do kinda agree but I can’t do the stick type basses - well, I don’t think I can)

True - I’ve seen a few basses though that say they are passive but actually it’s just an active eq bypass and although good for getting a passive tone, it all goes south when the battery goes!

I wonder how deep they are and how easy it would be to route them in a solid body with curvy sides? It’s a great concept but I’d Probly end up forgetting to change the battery 🤣