Cuzzie

Ebony is generally harder wearing than rosewood for example, but is tonally different and more like maple. All depends if you want a darker or brighter tone, or what look you want as well. Look after the wood, use flatwounds, I can’t see it being a problem. Why Ebony above another wood?

Luthier - if it’s a keeper, worth the cost

Get a fretted one of choice, pull the frets out

ISP Decimator II

You’ll have fun - there is no right or wrong settings on either one or order - so many variables at play, but as ever with T21 dials a little goes a long way so the only thing I would defo advise is small turns at a time, when you get ear fatigue, step away for a few mins and return or you will lose definition. Nowt wrong with clank into clank either!

Unless you want super clank of course!

Photo your fave setting on its own on each so they are never lost - and then play from there in either order, you may find vastly different ones probably than you would use in isolation, but you will find 2 or 3 sounds available at just stomping on switches

Yes and no! how do they stack?

That is the tucking fits

@acroxixo BTW not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but if you are getting a doubler cable for this - make sure it is current and not voltage - or the pedal will fry!

To run effectively yes. Just get a current doubler cable and use 2 ports, (there is a 400 and a 100 side by side on that power source) or get its own 1 spot plug if the ports are all used up

Not what I need to hear with me possessing dUg and a PSA 2.0!

Lush

This all goes on how tweaky you want to become, how do you like your metering if any at all and is really personal. Decide whether you want on pedal vs computer suite tweaks and how much of each. What kind of metering if any. Do some listening on FET vs BUS compressors and what they bring - and of course the Super Symmetry. Coloration vs transparency This will narrow down your selection then shoot!

Nut sure if the just a nut is any better or not (it’s quite expensive) and probably still needs sanding to fit in and I am not a fan of a bone/ivory nut - good simple graphtec TUSQ nut, take time on your set up and file judiciously - and then it’s done and all you need.

Also the G&L is a weird one and it depends which custom model neck you had as they did so many options. If it was the #7 or 6 neck then that was wide and flat, b it bun a different way and not as playable, but quick in its own way - their standard was a #12 which is not great, neither P nor J and I have also played a #8 which is phenomenal. A couple of the best necks I have played have had 44mm nuts but felt like they were 4mm they were so well sculpted - don’t compare the G&L to the Yammy on numbers - the Yammy will slay it on feel - but it may or may not be right for you

It’s worth a go - you don’t have to play stereo one of the outputs is mono and then you can blend the woofer and split coil as to you choice, but the choice is there to Bi amp if you so wish. It certainly isn’t a cumbersome neck, BS plays pretty fast, and the counter sunk bridge as well as the great construction do get you to go super low on the action if that’s your thing - it’s a real gem

Great Strings TI’s I love them - hope it works out for you, but I will say that Sandy’s do seem a little sensitive on the strings they like - I have read a few reports of people not liking their usual brand on them, or actually preferring stock to their usual brand. I have used TI’s on a couple of Sandy’s and I am sure you will be fine

Just fracking get one.......🤦🏾‍♂️

As said earlier it’s the ability to reverse them that sets hem apart - that’s about it as far as I know

The neck is pretty flat in it’s radius so despite having a wide nut it may well be very playable for you. I agree it’s a top notch bass, prolly the best Yammy make

Welcome to the club - Sandy’s are just awesome

For a soldering iron, you don’t need a temperature controlled one - I always found I was inadvertently flicking the dial on the handle (better but more expensive if your base unit controls the temp of course). I use the Antex 18w iron which does everything really rather well

That’s what I have got amd its good - mine also has a magnifying light attachment bit as well