adamg67

I think a few people do switchable ones, I'll have a look around.

Woah. Whatever I was expecting, it was not that. So many questions...

There's nothing in the Darkglass software to change the DI, I think they have just gone for the amp approach of line level DI, but with an XLR socket. It's probably the same circuit they use in amps. I might get hold of one of these to stick in my gig bag for the times when the sound bod isn't happy with line level: https://www.shure.com/en-US/products/accessories/a15la

I hadn't come across those, they look good - I've got a JDI but I want another DI box that's very transparent and will definitely take line level input, for the odd times when the sound engineer can't cope with the fact that my amp DI is line level not mic level, or when I've only got a mic pre to go into. Sounds like the EMO would fit the bill?

This seems pretty generally useful so I'll put it here... I've been looking at DI and DI boxes recently and came across this, sods law says it won't have the DI you're interested in but it does show the differences between them, and the way that some of them are deliberately not transparent which can be good or bad depending what you want. I love my Radial JDI because I don't need anything except a bass and the DI for it to sound good, and that's because it does smooth things out a bit. Anyway: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/direct-box-comparison-bass-guitar/

Ah, it never occured to me that I might be able to change it via USB, I'll check that out. Doing a bit more reading, it seems like a common problem with amps and DI, many of them use line level from a balanced XLR and at least some sound engineers don't know how to deal with that at the desk. It looks inconsistent with pedals - some definitely do DI like a DI box would (MXR, Palmer pocket amp, Bassbone).

The DI out from the darglass seems massively too hot for a mic input, it's not a case of tweaking it, it's a case of having to turn everything down to absolute minimum and then if you accidentally press the "bypass" footswitch (or wanted to use just the cab sim) you will suddenly get a signal that sends all the meters very red. It's line level, so literally 1,000 times the voltage of mic level.

I've never really undertood DI on pedals and amps being line level when a DI box, with the same output jack, produces mic levels. It's easy enough to use an XLR -> TRS cable and I do at home, but for gigs it seems to throw some (admittedly fairly amateur, or maybe just old school) sound engineers. Just the thing of having the same connector handle two kinds of signal seems weird. Case in point is the DG Vintage Microtubes Ultra I just bought, where the DI is line level. Are all powered DI pedals like that? It seems like when the stage has a snake the XLR cables all go to the mic inputs on the desk, so if you have line level DI do you put it through a nice clean passive DI box, or do you try and get it run into a line input on the desk? Or am I just missing something? My passive Radial JDI is mic level, as are most things that call themselves "DI Boxes" as far as I can tell, and that has caused way fewer problems than anything else, no power required either, but obviously not much flexibility which is why I was after a pedal with a few more options and DI out. Are there any like that which produce mic level?

Yeah, I was thinking that I'd only need one out of parallel and single, I've done it with guitars and found that there's not much between them. Parallel / Series is probably favourite.

The TIs sound nicely balanced to me, on both my current basses (5 string) and they did on the 6er I had before that. For the amount I play I doubt I'll ever change them I was playing with a pick and palm muting last night, that makes a lovely sound as well.

My Jake (Delano P pickup + Humbucker) has had roundwounds on it since I bought it a couple of years ago, and I've never really managed to get the sound I wanted. I've got an Elwood (Haussel J pickups) with TI flats but that hasn't really done it either. So, over xmas I put some TI flats on the Jake... wow. That's the sound I want, bang on. They need to play in a bit so I might need minor tweaks, but with any of my favourite amps from the Multiamp (mainly the MB ones) it just sounds perfect to me. Why I've not done it until now I do not know, my previous bass (Ibby BTB) had TI flats and I loved it. Maybe because I've not had a Jazz style bass before and didn't realise how much difference there would be. It's just a genuine "finally nailed it" moment, getting a Barefaced cab for the multiamp really brought the amp / cab sims to life and now the bass is sounding spot on as well. Sorted! Time to put some roundwounds on the Elwood I suppose. I'll try and stick a clip of it on soundcloud when I get chance.

If you're using an amp sim, give it a try straight in to the 2i4 in "inst" mode, that's what Focusrite say in the manual. If you've got an XLR cable anyway, try the DI method as well and see which sounds best. 🙂 @Sibob of this parish is involved with Focusrite and might also be able to advise.

The "inst" with a mono jack is designed to plug a bass or guitar straight into the 2i4 - I think the advice to use a DI is not necessarily correct, unless you actually want the tone from the DI (which you may well). My Presonus Quantum works the same way, with an "inst" button. It makes the instrument see high impedence designed for passive basses and guitars, works fine for active basses as well. You will get a completeley "dry" signal but levels should be good. If you use the output from your MXR, with a normal instrument cable, you want the "inst" setting as well, but again unless you want the tone from the MXR it's not doing anything. As an aside, If you use DI from your MXR with an XLR cable, the line / inst knob won't do anything, the DI will give mic level and when you use an XLR cable instead of a jack cable the input socket should assume mic level (I think, check the manual to be sure) - I checked, and it does. So just plug the DI into the 2i4 with an XLR and it's all good. See page 10 here: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91RsnLPGQMS.pdf

Got a Delano PMVC 5 FE/M2 in my Jake and that's good for tone between E and B strings, I think strings can make a difference as well though.

No, not the tracks and album by The Police, but things just working out nicely via Basschat recently. I just upgraded both my bass cab (Markbass 151 replaced with Barefcafed Big Baby II) and studio monitors (Adam A3Xs expanded in size to become Adam A7Xs), so I had the replacee speakers to sell in both cases. Checked on Items Wanted and there was a BCer looking for a MB 1x15, meeting up distance so we arranged a meet up in Ripon and did the deal. Due to head down to London the next weekend, just taken some pics of the A3Xs, another BCer drops me a PM cos he saw on the gear abstinence thread that I'd upgraded and wondered if the old monitors were for sale. That was literally hours before we left, I popped them in the car, we met up just down the road from some of the wife's relatives - another deal done. They're the only two things I've sold on here this year. I like it. Merry Xmas Basschat!

Darren bought some studio monitors, drove up so we could meet and do the deal in person, all super quick and easy, cheers mate!

I know this is thread is about the Zoom vs Thumpinator, but I think this is basically the same thing... I've been thinking about getting a thumpinator for a while, but obviously not thinking that hard cos when I read this thread I realised that my Multiamp has slots to spare and a two band EQ. When I checked it, it goes down to 30Hz and can be set to "L Shelf", which although it isn't a HPF should make a difference. So I tried it, with a frequency analysis thing in my DAW to check what was happening (as well as my ears obviously). The Q has to be set to max (narrowest) or it takes out a load of bass that I want, but with maximum cut, maximum Q @ 30Hz it's definitley taking some out according to the analyser. Weirdly (or maybe not, might be deliberate), it seems to boost a bit above 30Hz as well, so I added a second cut @ 30Hz with a lower (ie wider) Q and ended up with everything above 30 being about the same. I swear it instantly sounds better, I've got it as close as I can volume and shape wise so I can just pop it on and off with the footswitch, and the sound is just.. better. Like there's more of everything without it being louder. That will be on every preset from now on I think - it's not costing me anything as there's always a DSP chip idle at the mo. Only tried it with one bass but I'm sold.

I had a V-Amp 2 like that, looked like a kids toy, cost something daft like £70 and was a total eye opener. It ended up getting replaced by a Vox Tonelab which was definitely better but missing those LED endless rotary encoders that the V-Amp had. Now I just have an iRig and amplitube for guitar (already had the IPad Pro so bit of a no brainer), but then I'm not much of a guitarist. When I got back into the bass I just went straight for a Markbass Multiamp (complete with LED rotary encoders) and if/when that ever gets replaced it will be with another modelling rig, if not something like the iRig. The V-Amps (along with Line 6) must have opened a lot of people's eyes to the fact that modelling was coming of age.

This is true, and I'd considered it, and thought it was unlikely for Barefaced. Alex said he decided quite late on to do it, and that if he'd known in advance he'd have at least hinted. Most places do have something on the run on to try and drum up more business. I have certainly ended up with a good deal anyway.

And after all my moaning on here, when I got in touch Barefaced have refunded me the full difference between what I’d paid and the discount price. Anyone who wants to say “I told you so” is more than welcome to.

Misunderstanding... I was referring to the idea of buying a cab at the 20% off price and then returning mine. Barefaced don't have the same return policy as normal online retailers (eg they say won't take a cab back if you didn't discuss your requirements). It's also not clear if it's "just" an online sale if you discuss it with first (which they encourage you to do). @stevie pointed thought I had the right to return it anyway, even if BF don't agree... that's the point of confrontation. With your ipad, you clearly had the right to return it anyway, so you could just have bought another and sent yours back. With BF I can email them and see what they will do, as you said, but whether I can just return the cab and buy one at the new price... I'm not sure if I can or not. If I'd bought the cab at Anderton's, I'd just do what @DannyBrerro did and return it and get one at 20% off, no issues.

Yeah, I'm sure you're right if I was up for trying to push it. I'm not sure what I would do about ordering another one though, I get that with big companies it's pretty standard to send stuff back and re-order at a lower price but if it didn't work out I could end up with two. Plus, or maybe this is the main thing, I'm rubbish at confrontational type stuff and get really stressed out by it. Should have waited, or bought from Andertons.

According to which? you can't return things that are made to order.

On the website: https://barefacedaudio.com/pages/ordering-and-availability about half way down.

Although it does say "Should you find your purchase unsatisfactory in any way you have the right to return your cab within the first month, undamaged, for a full refund of both your purchase price and the outbound postage and packing charge." So maybe it will go back, because I find the price unsatisfactory when it' now available at 20% off.