landwomble

Don't do it. Fire risk.

TC Electronics BG250? Comes in a few flavours and sounds great. V portable and toneprint gives you some decent free effects that are really usable.

That's exactly it. It's gloriously slack. They are completely unpretentious and she is a beautifully honest lyricist. It kind of makes me think of John Cooper Clarke.

I'd be amazed if this wasn't a solved problem.

It's the glorious delivery of the lyrics that gets me. Doesn't give a sh*t and sound great. I think she's amazing

I think she's great. My daughters (8 and 11) love her too. I'm using "Pedestrian at Best" to get my youngest playing the short scale P bass :-)

Hi All, Thanks for all the responses. Appreciate there's a definite difference between real acoustic, high volume semi-feedback giving sustain and a drive pedal - I guess what I'm after is something approximating that warmth and completely maintaining the bottom end. It's obviously not quite the same as a pedal can't actually vibrate the strings. Whilst I could get this by turning up to 11 I'm a bit old for that these days and prefer a more ear-friendly volume for rehearsals! A lot of the drive pedals I've played with have been very extreme and not something that I'd ever use in a real world situation - so I'd be interested in experiences using FX like the M60B and B3 for this type of overdrive. Context is a rock and blues type band, rather than Death Metal, if you see what I mean!

[quote name='Shambo' timestamp='1436211828' post='2816091'] I've been doing a bit of research into portable computing since the turn of the year and I'm holding out for a MS Surface Pro 4 to do some CAD/Photoshop with a stylus on my uni course, but am resigned to the fact it might never happen, or at a realistic price for me. As someone mentioned above, chosing a lappy with a solid state drive will provide the most dramatic improvement in performance for the money. Personally, I'd look for a 1920 x 1080, 15.6" full high definition screen (FHD), as opposed to HD+ or just HD which isn't good enough for modern movies. RAM might be something you could upgrade easily yourself at a later & cheaper date. Apparently, the new direct X coming with the new windows OS is going to favour big towards multiple core processors, more so than any previous incarnation, so you might not be wanting to do anything too graphically taxing ATM, but it's something to consider if you want your new lappy to keep pace with newer software for longer. Happy hunting products [/quote] The Surface Pro 4, if and when it lands, will gave a much higher resolution screen than that. It's also likely to be fanless. As the Surface line is a premium product, expect it to be Macbook Pro money. You might consider the Surface 3 (non pro). It's a nice little machine and considerably cheaper that the Pro. Re USB 3.0 - wouldn't buy a machine without, although all new machines should have it as standard. It's not exactly new, USB C is coming soon... Asus, Lenovo, HP and Dell are all making top quality kit at the moment. Obviously they all have low, medium and high end offerings but generally now is a good time to buy laptops. In the run up to Windows 10 expect to see more new products launched from all the manufacturers.

[quote name='JoeEvans' timestamp='1436205127' post='2815975'] My Dell is absolutely rubbish. Bought it last year (with a work budget) and it was like stepping back ten years in terms of speed and reliability. It takes about five minutes to boot up, regularly freezes and is generally an absolute waste of space. When I got a new Macbook Air (new job) I couldn't believe the difference - it feels literally hundreds of times faster. [/quote] The new Macbook air is very expensive sive for a very low spec. Dunno what your old work did to screw up the dell but a modern machine shouldn't and doesn't typically behave like that. Make sure you get an SSD and even a lowly core i3 should be more than adequate for speed...

Dell UK outlet. Find yourself a nice ultrabook at half price.

Amazing, isn't it. I had a few years off and I came back from having a car full of kit and a bad back to a rig I can carry one handed!

Hi all. Usually I play clean, however I'm tidying my effects chain a bit and am looking for new options. All I want is something akin to the effect I get when I play onstage at gig level with my bass facing my amp - natural sustain through volume/acoustic feedback with maybe a tiny bit of very mild tube saturation drive. If I could find this in a pedal that also does compression then happy days. Tech21 sansamp? Zoom B3? Something else? Particularly looking for something where it's easy to dial in tone. I have zoom b2 but TBH don't use it a lot. The b3 looks easier to use as it apes 3 pedals with 3 "real" knobs each? Or am I going to be disappointed with digital? Suggestions, please!

It's probably something along the lines of on free listings day you list a load of empty placeholders, misspelled so they don't show up, and then when you have stock to sell you edit the listing for the item you have for sale.

Bogdan Helter Skelter/Polish Love? Ace and very rare handmade with a really meaty sound. I might know where there is one... ;-)

Yeah, the Ashdown is quite subtle. It's really good although can upset PA systems if you crank it up, it really is a sub bass...

I keep coming back to my shorty P bass. It's a brilliant little thing and I'm starting to favour it of an evening over my MIJ Jazz. From a GAS perspective what it HAS done is convinced me I need a Squier CV 70s reissue though, so there's that...!

[quote name='HengistPod' timestamp='1435756079' post='2812143'] Take a pair of scissors, a flathead/crosshead screwdriver, small adjustable spanner, spare 9V batteries if you use them for pedals etc, plasters, superglue and gaffa tape. It's the bass player's job to carry these items (cos no other f*cker bothers). Optional extras include soldering iron/solder and blu-tac. You must also drive the van, know how to fix a head gasket at the side of a dark country road using only the above items plus old guitar strings, and round up the drummer afterwards to deposit in a heap in back of said van. I have an old sports bag with a couple of side pockets. One has the above handy things, the other has spare strings ready to whip out and change as necessary. All my leads and stuff go in the main bit. Keep your leads tidily coiled up. I always have a reasonably long power extension lead squirrelled away somewhere too - you'd be surprised how many pubs put bands on 5 metres from the nearest single wall socket! (edit)Another thing - a couple of wooden wedge doorstops. Just little ones, but enough to hold doors open so you can transport your gear through without having to try and kick the door open at the same time. Remember to pick them up again ... [/quote] Everything this man says is true...!

I have a Bogdan Polish Love / Helter Skelter that I could be persuaded to part with for 40 quid... ;-)

Practice your changes. Have some performance rehearsals beforehand - when you're practicing, do the set as if live and make sure your changeovers are slick. , Don't get hammered beforehand but you never know, a pint or two might steady your nerves. YMMV. Think positive. You're on the stage, you're cool, you sound great and screw anyone who disagrees as they're wrong - that kind of thing. Relax. Don't cramp up your hands/arms. Pick a spot on the stage where you're comfortable, I like being tucked in near the drummer on stage right, but that's just me. Make sure you can hear yourself, raise your amp on a beer crate if needs be (but not too far or you'll lose volume). Be nice to the soundman. Soundcheck using any/all effects you're going to use if you use any - don't introduce any surprises like cranking up the bass between soundcheck and performance. Nerves are natural, everyone gets them to a degree. Trick is getting to the point where they keep you sharp, rather than negatively affecting you. Gigging is like anything - the more you do it, the easier it gets...

Edit - some opinions here -https://www.gearslutz.com/board/so-many-guitars-so-little-time/752675-loosening-truss-rod-when-flying-fender-bass-guitar.html

I dunno, I think it's pretty safe to remove the neck without touching the truss rod. Would welcome someone reassuring me though as if I have to buy a hard case just to ship it'll negate a lot of the savings.

Had a J Retro in my jazz for about 15 years. They're great and fairly easy to fit. Space is a bit tight sometimes but it's pretty straightforward. They sound great and are simple to use. Passive mode is there too for when your need it. I find batteries last me, oooh, say, 6 years ;-)

I'm planning on buying in the US next month. TBH, I can't see why I can't just take the neck off, wrap body and neck separately with bubble wrap and stick them in my suitcases...