Balcro

I said many neos not all neos. The comment was illustrative not ultra precise and referred to the BN300S for comparison, only because it had been mentioned in earlier posts. I had already done comparative modelling with winISD before posting, hence my comments on the frequency response spectrum. ("The BN300S that Bill mentioned is 4-5 dB louder than the Celestion Pulse 12 from 400Hz & upwards, but the Pulse has a very strong thump around 80-140Hz ") . These comments would not ring true from a look at the graphs on Celestions' web-site which under-represent bass performance. Perhaps I should have said "see the attached winISD graphs", not Celestions' graphs. My words: "Even the few lines of descriptive text for each speaker hint at the overall sound". CELESTION:- BN12300S. Also available in 4Ω the BN12-300S is a 12 inch bass guitar speaker that delivers clear well-balanced bass so you can be confident in your performance whether holding the line or punching through the mix. CELESTION:-Pulse 12. For bass players demanding well-defined clarity and stunning articulation together with a rich full tone PULSE12 bass speakers deliver an ideal combination of responsiveness and rock solid low end. This combination of vagueness & hyperbole marketing speak from Celestion is a roundabout way of saying the folowing - "A higher Fs and other factors give the BN300S higher sensitivity in the mids, but also result in less low frequency extension". "Only after that did designers realize that the main way to get higher sensitivity, more magnetic flux, doesn't increase sensitivity linearly across the full audio spectrum. It tilts it to the mids and highs".

Swapping out the existing Celestions for a pair of neodymiums might only save you about 2.5lbs in weight for each drive unit. Not the best bonus for a possible outlay of £250! I agree with the comments from "agedhorse". If it works well without any obvious scraping, roughness or rattles then it's definitely worth a punt. Many neo speakers seem to have great efficiency, i.e they're a lot louder for a given input than the ferric equivilants. Celestions' current 12" line-up shows the difference. The BN300S that Bill mentioned is 4-5 dB louder than the Celestion Pulse 12 from 400Hz & upwards, but the Pulse has a very strong thump around 80-140Hz - see Celestions' own frequency response graphs. Even the few lines of descriptive text for each speaker hint at the overall sound. https://celestion.com/product/pulse12/ https://celestion.com/product/bn12-300s-8/ If the drive units in the SWR ever fail, then a pair of Pulse 12's will fit the bill nicely (mounting hole size and diameter permitting). The sound will never be the same as the original but a bit of amplifier bass & middle eq correction should sort things out. PS. I wouldn't recommend the BN300s in that cabinet. Other 12" neos may be more suitable.

I may be reading between the lines, but looking at the GHS web site - ghs.com - they have a nice bright-to-mellow chart. The ground wounds ("Brite flats") have this quote - "The final cover is precisely ground after the string is completed, leaving a smooth finish." Now when you think of grinding anything, there is always a degree of roughness left over. When you look at the simple text description for "pressure wounds" you have this quote "Fretless players also love how Pressurewounds retain that signature "mwah" tone, while going easy on their fingerboards." It's a subtle difference but might be worth considering.

Have a look at the Faital-Pro 4FE 35; also on the blue Aran site. It's ferrite and therefore heavier than the neo Celestion. However, even allowing for Celestion's usual very conservative ratings for xMax, the Faital has more low-mid bass extension, both in terms of frequency response and power handling. Only £16.45 a piece. Probably just pipping the Faital, is the ferrite Beyma FR40 8 Ohm. £21.23 @ Blue Aran. The trade off is that the Celestion is clearly louder (more efficient) (according to my SPL chart) over nearly the whole frequency range, despite Faital claiming otherwise. None of these speakers are really intended for playing bass, so even inputting 8w will just put them onto the xmax line in medium/low bass @ around 135Hz. In the lower mids (300Hz) the Beyma will output 95.7dBA, the Faital 94.5 and the Celestion 97.7dBa. Just a few comparisons out of many possible comparisons. All comparisons made with an internal volume of 3.5L and an input of 8w. In my opinion they wil all work well for gaming and youtube, but for bass practice the Beyma & Faital have a bass boost (120 - 250Hz for a warm and punchy sound) and more low/mid frequency reserve.

Beyer Dynamic offer an extension cable if the bult-in cable is not long enough. Check out the subtle differences between the ordinary DT range and the DT Pro range. I use the ordinary "DT880 Edition". The Pro range has an slight upward bias in the treble which is intended, so they say, for use in music monitoring / studio work. https://europe.beyerdynamic.com/headphones-headsets.html https://europe.beyerdynamic.com/kopfhorer-verlangerungskabel.html

Very sad. Stevie Nicks said she didn't know Christine was ill! I share tauzero's shock that she was 79! Only saw her once, back in '69 or thereabouts, with Stan Webb's Chicken Shack; that quiet but essential presence. RIP.

The Fane is a cracking little speaker but Fane's profile is a little on the low side. I modeled it for fun back in April 2020 and it was very respectable, with little to choose between it and similar models from Faital & Beyma. In a 20 litre box it's very manageable with a port length of under 9" and only £47.20 from Blue Aran. It should sound very clean in the low bass because the drop-off in output is naturally steep below 75Hz. Set it up as a 2x8 for even more volume. If only it was a neo

Look at any codes / numbers / labels on the magnet and copy all the information into an e-mail to Eminence. To:- [email protected] and reference "Technical Support" quoting TC Electronic plus any and all information from the magnet as well as the basic information you already have. They will get back to you in a few days. Don't be surprised if they say the speaker drivers are an OEM part, but enquire if they can point you to a near match.

From the look of the larger crate I would guess that you would have about a 45 litre internal volume. That should suit a 10" or maybe a 12" loudspeaker drive unit. The pipes/bars won't be a problem as long as you set them in oversize holes with some mastic. After all they're only cosmetic. Make the topmost recesses/holes longer than necessary (like a track arrangement for a sliding door). From the bass point of view I'd build a speaker enclosure to fit inside the crate. 12mm ply should do, with the front baffle painted matt black and a few softwood cross-braces. You have to build a proper speaker box otherwise it will have very poor power handling and sound odd! Try to set the drive unit within 15 - 20mm of the bars. Once you've done the speaker box, attach the strips of wood to the outside to complete the disguise. Good luck.

If you can't find a distinct code or label on the magnet (it could be a legacy supplier), there are alternative solutions. If you can provide the following internal dimensions:- - the width, height and depth of the enclosure. In addition, measure how far the the slot port extends from the front external edge to it's termination inside the box. From these dimensions, an accurate calculation of the gross volume of the box can be calculated and that opens the possibility of finding a suitable value-for-money replacement driver.

Coda Music. 51A High Street, Stevenage. SG1 3AH is the proper postal address, but they're not easily visible from the High Street itself. Look for the pedestrian crossing. For road signs look for the "Old town", not the Town Centre. Coda are set back up a wide alleyway from the High Street on a corner with "Middle Row". The cake shop, "Simmons" is 30m to the south, down Middle Row. Enjoy.

Definitely try to view the magnet at the back of he speaker driver. It may have a useful code. Try this contact page for advice. www.edenamps.com/contact Eden is now owned by the "Gear 4 Music" Group.

The abrupt edges of all ports, round or rectangular, cause turbulence. There will be little discernible difference unless you "round off" all 4 sides of a slot port. A tricky and time consuming process. With Phil's preferrred round port you do at least have the option of buying a flanged reflex port, such as this: - https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-4-Flared-Port-Tube-Kit-268-352 The flares/flanges reduce the production of turbulence at the internal & external abrubt edges and may also smoothe/improve the velocity of air within the pipe. They come with either single or double ended flanges ( flares ). When sizing the port length you only measure the parallel part of the tubes and ignore the flare/flange. In winISD v 0.70... , there is a setting under "Rear Port Air Velocity" for "End Correction" but in my version it does not seem to have any effect upon the port length calculation. Whether you really need flares/flanges depends upon you're particular speaker design and the multitude of compromises needed to get the result you want.

For general reference, see here in the "Amps & Cabs" forum. An Uncontroversial Way to Compare the Output of Class D Amps. By Stub Mandrel, Monday at 22:34 For a very concise answer to your original post, BigRedX's Monday post fits the bill. It sounds to me that with a valve amp, once the peak is reached there's increasing compression (at the peak) but the other parts of the sound spectrum continue to rise, so the overall sound seems louder.

Now you know why it's bad practice to build square box loudspeakers. "Bigguy" is right. In a same but different way it reminds me of the only time I ever walked out of a concert to protect my ears and brain - Medicine Head playing in a very long & narrow brick walled gymnasium @ University college. I was sitting less than 20' from the back wall and roughly the same distance from the rear corner. Horrendous! Perhaps the only cheap and simple passive solution is to use thick sound absorbents on the rear wall and into the rear corners, a la "Biguy's "Corner Bass Traps".. Try sitting at least a metre from the rear wall. You'll never cure the subby bass completely because the wooden walls are resonating along their length betwen one nail fixing and the next. Picking up on "bigguys" comment, you could try a simple graphic equaliser and apply a large cut to the signal at 120Hz. That will also take out the harmonic @ 228Hz. Lastly, think of the poor fish in the tank. They probably think their living through an undersea earthquake !!!

So that's why Trump offered to buy Greenland from the Danes a few years back!

Some interesting tables and notes here on the JBL E-120 https://jblpro.com/en/site_elements/jbl-professional-enclosure-guide 1.5cu.ft = 42 Litres. * See the note at the bottom of page.2 *This is an old document hence the comments about adding more ducts, somewhat imprecise by today's standards. * Don't use fibreglass! OMG it's efficient!! https://usspeaker.com/JBL e120-1.htm

If price isn't the deciding factor, then I recall this from a US web-site. (see here - https://audioxpress.com/news/New-Beyma-WR-Family-of-Low-Frequency-Drivers WR for cast frames, WRS for pressed steel. They're currently about £120 in the UK The CMV2's are around £80. It's taken 5+ years to phase out the SM series. Perhaps Phil can cast his critical eye over the specs for a "compare & contrast" opinion.

Hello Hacksawbob, I'm a bit late to this party, but with reference to your & Phil's post from the 23rd November, it is my understanding that Port Tuning & size is based upon using the internal paralllel surface of the port; the flares are ignored, regardless of their curvature. The flares are there just to reduce turbulence. Your "Cookbook" source and the winISD website may have some info as well as various "hi-fi" component supplier web-sites.

Very nice indeed. Enjoy.

He went and got his coat. MB1 has left the building. RIP.

Hello carnabass, Some more food for thought here:- Panel thickness, bracing, cross-bracing, materials, screws, construction methods etc.. https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/loudspeaker-cabinets https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Guide/BuildSpeakerBox/ https://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers_2.htm With hi-fi they're going to the 'nth degree of nuttiness, but for the fundamentals within these pages, they are are good guide to musical instrument/bass speakers. I have my preferences and you may have yours, it all depends on what you're trying to achieve. Nice job on your speaker, by the way.

It's as loud as any other 500w amp into 4ohm. By my visual calculations the gap between the feet is 17.35cm. The distance to the outside of the feet is 20.70cm.

The simple wattage figures don't necessarily translate into increased volume. The drive unit inside may be more or less efficient than another, so the the volume could be less, the same or more than any other combo. As is normal, the full 500w will only be available when the Laney is hooked up to an extension speaker. Depending upon amplifier design the stand-alone output will probably be 250 -300w. Fairly heavy yes, but very well specified at a competitive price and if it's a tilt-back even more versatile. A very mixed set of descriptions online; Laney say it's a sealed cabinet, searching for pictures shows one model with a rear-port, while others look standard and yet more say it's a kick-back. Confusing. The ported version will probably be more efficient in the low-mid bass. The 30Hz graphic slider is great idea - in the "cut" position it is, in effect, a high pass filter which will clean up the low bass & de-stress the driver unit.