Dan Dare

Hilarious. I note from his feedback that he's mainly a buyer, who flogs the occasional pair of trainers or item of consumer electronics. He's probably not the sharpest tool in the box.

It could be that one has linear and the other log/audio pots, rather than a fault (assuming the volume when they are both up full is comparable). Plenty of advice online about the difference and which might be preferable. It could also be that they are wired differently (do you know whether either has been modded in any way?). The traditional J bass wiring routes the neck pickup via its own and the bridge pickup volume control, which means they affect each other. You can also wire them so both run direct to the output. I'd take off the control plates, find a wiring diagram (plenty online) and compare them.

"we shortened our lives to create a truly unique instrument"? Arrange the following to form a well know phrase or saying: Of. Pretentious. Load Tripe. What a.

Quilter Bass Block?

Spend £350 or nothing on something you're not sure whether you'll want to continue with? No brainer for me. Never look a gift horse in the mouth and all that. If you don't get on with it, you could donate it to a local school or similar - I appreciate that selling something you have been given is not really cricket.

Very well played, sir

I'd avoid Amazon, unless you have a specific make/model in mind that they sell. Seek advice from a specialist - as zbd1960 suggests - which won't be much more expensive, if at all. A decent, usable bow for £70 sounds a very good deal indeed to me. My best violin bow cost many times that. Also, let's try to support specialists and not give all our money to Bezos & Co. They've got plenty already.

Perhaps this?

If, by your own admission, you are crap, the sound guy may be keeping you low in the mix, so as not to have it sound too bad out front. He will likely not want to tell you this for fear of hurting your feelings. I've been in a similar position when mixing. It's a difficult situation. Yes, the idea of a jam is that everyone (within reason) gets a chance to pitch in, but you still want to keep things sounding as decent as possible.

HB are great value, but it's hard to beat a used Squier for a budget PJ. If you decide to sell it, it will likely be easier to shift than a HB.

It's not that. It's due to the fact that we live in such litigious times. Companies are printing warnings on everything in an attempt to cover themselves in case someone turns up with a rent-a-lawyer complaining that a product caused cancer, made them grow an extra head, etc, etc. Can't really blame them.

Just checked his eBay offerings. It seems "perfect balance" is his latest schtick. Plenty of gems on offer at the moment. Just search the 'Bay for "perfect balance bass"

I'd be happier if he actually was a luthier. I think it's likely he trained as a butcher.

Definitely not suitable. You need a double bass bow. They are shorter and have a much thicker/stronger stick, to resist bending and the frog is much deeper, so the hair is held further away from the stick. You need this because you have to exert much greater pressure on double bass strings than you do on a violin, viola or cello to set the strings vibrating. A violin, viola or cello bow will simply collapse against the strings. You will probably break the bow. Even if you don't, it will be useless.

Always assuming they even know they've made mistakes in the first place.

Oh really? That's why nobody ever does the same stupid things over and over again, then...

I agree with JPJ. If you have the money, Phil Jones stuff sounds nice, looks good and is compact and unobtrusive. You can add a power amp and cab and use the excellent onboard preamp if you do decide to gig.

Sorry, but this is tripe. Practicing/rehearsing something so you know it instinctively is what makes you get it right.

Good stuff and best of luck. If it's a Theremin, don't forget to advertise it as "never touched".

A decent tech/repairer should be able to do that. A proper job will involve filling with hardwood dowels and re-drilling. It shouldn't weaken anything if done right. I'd ask your tech's advice.

Jack's Instrument Services (Manchester, 07706828122, jacksinstrumentservices.com) have made me a couple that I'm happy with. They do them in a very wide range of materials/colours, including several styles of tort.

Manufacturers claiming that something is FRFR is one thing. Reality is another. A £250 cab is not going to be truly FRFR (at least, not at any volume or distance). The laws of physics, Jim, and all that. I agree with Phil. Not worth spending money on it and losing re-sale value. Best to sell it and put the funds towards something better.

I wouldn't bother with 3 driver cabs. They are rare, difficult to do well and consequently likely to be expensive if they are any good - something like the Fearless F112, for example. Good quality modern drivers reach well up/down into the midrange.

Sounds as if you may be selling "an old thing that I never used and was going to scrap" that you may not realise the value of. If it's a 1952 P bass, I'll give you 50 quid cash...