Musicman20

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1379812804' post='2217050'] Glad you like it! I'm looking forward to hearing what you think of it at the rehearsal.... [/quote] Me to! Looking forward to hearing this and starting back writing again. It's taken a long time to find the right 4 people, and we are still searching for a good frontman/vocalist.

[quote name='MOSCOWBASS' timestamp='1379803738' post='2217013'] Looks like BF [/quote] It doesn't, trust me. I think all in all they are cheaper as well. The quality of build is on par with Aguilar and Bergantino, as it should be at this price.

Really impressed. I've been testing it with my Big Al 5 in passive, then in active and trying a LOT of bass boost and it just doesn't flinch....at all. A heck of a lot of volume, punch and tone from a little light box. I tried some music through it and the more dance orientated sub bass stuff or heavier music sound excellent. I haven't really missed the tweeter plus my bass strings are a little old. It is EXCELLENT for plec/lots of tube grind....just sounds effortless for that. I couldn't believe such a little box could kick that much bass.

Ay....I will do. Hopefully get some playing time on them today. New band members popping round tomorrow to have a quick chat before we rehearse properly and the guitarist wants to show me some songs he's written, (thankfully he's a big fan of low on stage volume).

They look cool, more G&L than Musicman to my ears....I think the bridge H is out of the Stingray sweetspot on the HH...(not sure). This would make the HH model more like a Bongo HH. If they are reasonable prices they could do quite well with these. I imagine they are having to tread VERY carefully not to be 'too Stingray' to get into trouble. I think Fender having some cool stuff out at the moment...they just need a GOOD passive 5 string PJ model to the standard of something like Sandberg. That would go down VERY well.

All - WOT has just been kind enough to drop off the 12/6 cabinet. My word, I haven't had chance to plug in yet, but the quality just oozes from this cab. Very VERY slick aesthetics and attention to detail. It's not a tiny box but its easy to move and pretty light. Just from the aesthetics I'm impressed. It's 450W, 12+6, lovely tweed covering (which lines ups perfectly all over!) chrome corners, grill behind the cloth. I have a new band starting on Weds so I'll take this along. I'm going to try it in my room tomorrow to see what it sounds like.

It'll be the protection circuits kicking in on the amp.

[quote name='51m0n' timestamp='1379495155' post='2213238'] Nah TC say and sell it as n watts, when it isnt, its g watts run through a multiband limiter/(other assorted shenanigans) rather like a simple digital mastering cover all solution, in order to get a higher average level to peak ratio (think radio station broadcast limiter). The amp runs harder than a real n watt amp to achieve the same level as an n watt amp (by which I mean in achieving that same level the amp is running closer to its theoretical maximum more of the time - just look at the graphs in the pdf). Which may or may not worry you. It also means the transients are very definitely curtailed, and that is something you may be able to feel. I can honestly say the TC stack sounds really loud, possibly louder than my rig in fact, but I prefer the sound and feel of my rig (I had a day with my rig sat next to Charics - IIRC - at a previous bass bash, so this is a personal subjective impression of the two rigs suide by side for an extended period of time). I have no problem with that approach from an engineering point of view, if they said thats what they did, but in their initial push to market (anyone remember their bass 2.0 ads?) they kept this all very quiet. Any kind of limiting or compression is a form of distortion of the signal, and to claim they have 500, 1000, 1700 watts of [i]clean[/i] usable power is frankly a lie. Whether this is a negative thing is entirely up to you of course [/quote] I agree the tone and feel is subjective with these amps. However, they still state the power modules used inside the amps are capable of producing the wattage stated when 'uncapped' by the APM. If this is the case, then in theory, they are the stated wattage amps, and it would have probably cost less to use the power module on its own than develop a load of new technology (APM) to add to a low powered module. I would not be one to know exactly what the APM is, and I very much doubt any of us understand it completely without seeing their no doubt confidential information.

Sounds like I've got nothing to worry about!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1379412980' post='2212267'] I don't want to sound mean, but a ) you didn't buy it in the UK and b ) it was your own fault. Maybe they should have been quicker, but... y'know... [/quote] I hate to also sound a little harsh...but this seems like you wanted to save money and then made a mistake...(which happens). It's good that they repaired it for you...they could have refused to touch it.

Thanks all. I am confident it will be fine if I do order. By the way, I've raised this in another topic, what is the best way to avoid expensive conversion charges? Can you pay by paypal or does that then route to yuor linked account and charge your debit card the conversion? I've been informed normal credit cards charge the most.

I've never ordered through Thomann, but I have my eye on something. It isn't extremely expensive, but as you can imagine, not being able to play an instrument or see it can make this a little risky. I think my sensible side has prevented me from ordering, purely because I don't know how they operate. From looking at their T&C's, its unclear what happens if something turns up damaged/etc. I can understand you pay shipping back if you don't like it, but what happens if its faulty/damaged? Do you get your conversion fee back? Very confused... I wouldn't be so cautious, but I've just had a damaged parcel issue which is now resolved, but its not so bad if its a UK company.

What's the best way to order from Thomann then? Debit card?

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1379352888' post='2211638'] Yes Fender UK will honour warranties that are still valid, and are also the ones who deal with fixes etc, although I will not recommend them to anyone. I blew a streamliner 900 and it took around 4 months to slot in a new power board when all they had to do was replace the electrolyte capacitors and some other burned out components. I used real electronics in Sheffield for my Markbass head and explained my worries for time after dealing with fender, they replaced the broken components and had it shipped back to me in less than a week. Anyway, I've been wanting to try the fender rumble heads to see what they are like as they seem similar in size to the shuttles. If Fender did end up make heads that were just as good as the shuttle I would have no problem buying one. [/quote] I can understand the frustration but how did you blow it up?!?!

I've just got the ball rolling on my own band (first time in a long time I'm getting what I want without compromise) and the guitarist is keen to have the bass as a prominent instrument, and just have one guitar. We both think it would be cool to have one of these for a few tracks...it would suit the sound we are going for I think.

I've got two Genz amps and in a way I wish they could carry on with their innovation. Yes, I doubt now they will be able to improve on the latest .2 amps and the current Streamliners, so its nice to have the latest and greatest, but I seriously doubt Fender will keep the same level of quality and innovation. However, I think two of the Genz chaps now work with Fender, which can only be a good thing!

I'd try not having the master so high. Just use the input until it clips then drop back a touch, then master to suit. P basses are not notoriously sub bass heavy/mushy in the lows, more of a low mid kick which is why they tend to work in all mixes. If it worked through your previous cab and the same amp, its bound to be a cab/room related issue. Usually P's work with EVERYTHING.

Just keep at it...slow it down...get it right slow, then speed up. Trust me, this applies to virtually all of us on here I think.

The MB amps are not that clean...they have the GK sound/character....very 'GK'....big lows, tame mids (at 12 o'clock) and sparkly aggressive highs. It's a mystery. It might just be the match up doesn't work.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1379244691' post='2210153'] Are you still in Gateshead? [/quote] Hiya...on t'other side!

Regardless of tone, I prefer the style of the TKS over BF but I'm a picky vain sod.

[quote name='pietruszka' timestamp='1379244022' post='2210139'] As Michael says, the 1126 is loud and kicks out stunning lows, in fact, it's the closest thing I've heard from a speaker that sounds like the Aguilar DI. The cab is bigger but as TKS have said that will add to the lows. This cab doesn't disappoint! I found I only needed to go to 11 o'clock on my head (AG500 SC, 250w 8ohms with this cab) and it was clean as. I don't doubt for moment that it could handle much, much higher volumes. I have to admit, from the couple of barefaced cabinets I've tried, I'm fairly underwhelmed with them, the TKS kicks out a better low end with like for like amp settings. That's not to say barefaced aren't any good, not at all. But with my playing through them I prefer Markbass, Aguilar and TKS. For those in the north east, I'll be dropping off the 1126 and 115 back with WoT tonight. Dan [/quote] Oh I need to try these! I'm temporarily without a car so I should have gone to the bass bash.

The options are endless! I can see these becoming popular over here.

Best Shuker I've seen.

They look great! I'm interested.