Manton Customs

All finishes have their downsides. Nitro (cellulose) is a good choice as it's readily available in aerosols (I'm assuming you don't have spray equipment) in lots of guitar colours. It can punish you, but that's finishing! If the body comes out good enough for a natural finish you could look at doing an oil finish, which is much easier! If you go the Nitro route make sure you spray somewhere that isn't too damp or you'll get bloom (cloudiness). Also keep everything scrupulously clean...both the work area and the body itself or you'll have problems. Make sure you build up enough finish, a thin finish is nice, but if you haven't got much experience it's easy to burn through when you come to level the finish. As mentioned above, the prep is the key and it's best to give it a month to cure before wetsanding and buffing. There's lots on info on rattle can Nitro finishing on the Reranch website. It's an American site, but the info is good.

Not really, no. If you're luthier is leveling the frets correctly he will level along the string paths rather than exactly to the radius, this creates the same result (as far as action is concerned) as a flat fingerboard. If you're luthier is leveling with a radius block, then yes, the greater radius on the board will mean a (slightly) higher action... we are talking small amounts here, but it will be more susceptible to choking when bending. A cylinder is really not the optimal shape for a fretboard. Most luthiers will use a flat block or file, leveling along the strings paths. So I imagine yours has done just this.

Another vote for it won't help. It's most likely the neck profile that's causing your issues rather than the front to back thickness. The extra thickness heavier strings would add would be next to non existent anyway.

Yes, CITES have introduced new legislation protecting all Rosewood species. Meaning if you now sell a guitar or bass with a Rosewood fretboard outside the EU, or across states if you're in America you'll need to apply for a permit. Buying a bass within the U.K./EU will remain the same. I believe one of the reasons they did this was to protect Brazilian Rosewood (approaching extinction) as Indian Rosewood (the species most fretboards are made of these days) is actually very sustainable and one of the worlds most planted trees. They grow quickly too. But rather than further protect Brazilian Rosewood (which was already restricted) they have covered all species, as I suppose one species was being passed off as the other. I hope we will not see a great increase in the use of Ebony, as this is currently way more endangered than Indian Rosewood ever will be. So if that happens they will introduce restrictions on Ebony also. I doubt instruments with Rosewood fretboards will become any more sought after...possibly the opposite.

Not quite sure how the myth got started, I really can't see the logic in how it would cause "warping". Wood doesn't work like that .

[quote name='thegummy' timestamp='1484175693' post='3213390'] Was just speaking to my friend who's a graphic designer and has access to automated routing machines and he said at first he'd do it but when I showed him the price of the blank plastic he said I should get it lasered cause he wouldn't want to risk it [/quote] Routers as Tbay suggested work fine. I would bandsaw close to the line, template rout, then rout the the bevel. Alternatively you could bandsaw/jigsaw up close to the line then lots of sanding! Have you tried "scratch it" they do custom jobs and would be cheaper than a luthier. http://www.originalscratchplates.com/

Yes

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1483624770' post='3208767'] You'd be surprised... even Warwick used them As for it being a bodge... we'll have to disagree. It may not seem that elegant at first sight, but it's highly effective with no drawbacks. Yes, you may argue that theoretically the contact neck/body is reduced etc etc. But I'm only interested in what works or doesn't work *in use*. And shims work. No question about it. [/quote] Bodge might be a strong term, but nobody builds a bass from the ground up to incorporate a shim. If you find a shim in pocket straight from the factory, it's simply because they make mistakes too. It obviously makes sense from a manufacturing point of view to simply add a shim when the alternatives would be hard work. There's nothing wrong with a shim if necessary on a used bass which has been around the block, but on a new bass I'd find it unacceptable. Once more it'll most likely get worse over time as the pocket typically pulls up at the headstock end over the years. This reduces neck angle and increases the problem. That's one of the reasons why so many old instruments wind up needing shims. If you really wanted to keep the bass you could sand/mill the angle into the neck pocket or neck heel. That's (one of) the correct fix (es) if you were building from scratch, but obviously not wise in this case when you can just send it back!

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1482934769' post='3203608'] Thanks for your thoughts. They're always welcomed, by me at least. Or these where you can get them in the UK: http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=fender+fret+wire [/quote] Glad to hear it . Yep, Jescar wire as you linked is my preferred brand when it comes to fretwire also.

I really wouldn't choose SS frets for a vintage Fender. Ordinary Nickel silver frets will last a very long time for the majority of players and it's what the instrument would have originally came with. And yes SS frets will sound slightly different. I also believe it would negatively effect the value.

[quote name='jimbobothy' timestamp='1481404599' post='3192137'] .... just happened to me, bummer [/quote] I ended up fixing the bass for the OP. The weld on the truss rod anchor had failed, so I replaced the truss rod with a new Warwick rod for him. Get in touch if I can help.

[quote name='PeteS' timestamp='1478964348' post='3173016'] Thanks for the advice, re-crown it is then. Just out of interest - do you think worn frets produces more fret clank with finger style? [/quote] Not directly no, it's either a symptom of a setup which doesn't suit you, strings that don't or technique. Just so you're clear the process is a level, crown and polish...in that order. Just recrowning them is not good practice as it'll not bring the frets to level...but your luthier/tech will know that .

Very little wear there, so a minor fret dress is all that's necessary. If it's playing ok you might not even need that, but if a good luthier does the work it will bring the action down.

If you can get the two surfaces mating perfectly, super glue will hold the nut in place, just a couple of drops is all you'll need. Woodglue is usually PVA based and it does not stick to non porous materials (such as a nut) very well at all. Edit: you also want to get rid of the gap between the fb and nut, it's leaning.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1478809914' post='3171885'] Remeber to clean any previously glued surfaces up with a file. Also when fitting a nut (no matter the nut material) key up (roughen) the mating surfaces of the nut so the glue gets a good bond. [/quote] This is likely your issue - an uneven surface consisting of old glue, meaning your new nut is not making proper contact so the glue is not either. You don't need a different type of nut, but I would advise you to get a luthier or tech to fit the new nut. A well cut and fitted nut makes a dramatic difference to how the bass plays.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1478416913' post='3168877'] Definitely been frequenting too many US forums [/quote]

Feel free to PM me for more info if you go ahead. If it's an oil finish (as Warwicks often are) then it's not a big job to slim it down a little.

Setting intonation using harmonics doesn't really work as it does not bring the fret into the equation. You should be able to get intonation dead on at the 12th (fretting), if you can't there is either a setup issue or a problem with the strings themselves. Based on what you've said it does sound like you've got a bad set of strings. It happens! Usually an incorrectly cut nut will make notes sharp, but take a look at the nut and make sure nothing looks off. Have a look at the bridge saddles also. Having pickups set too high will make the note fluctuate rather than being sharp or flat. What's it like elsewhere on the neck? Particularly the first few frets.

West system Epoxy, you'll want the slow 206 hardener. Be careful not to get it on your finish (if the bass currently has one) as it won't come off!

The normal way is to mix it into your clear (as in what would be inside the can on an aerosol...obviously not possible). But yeah it looks like in that thread he's just been kind of throwing it at it, sort of mixing it on the outside. Which I haven't seen done before. Maybe you could try that also, if you'd be happy with those kind of results. Or the premixed aersols if you'd like more conventional results.

Yep, keying basically means slightly roughing up the surface, a rougher surface (within reason!) will help the paint grab onto the tiny scratches. Whereas a smooth surface can be quite slick. Also give it a thorough wipe down with lighter fluid or similar once you've keyed it. There are loads of different variations on poly finishes, incompatibility is rare but to make sure give it a quick test spray of primer and make sure it adheres well. If the primer goes on ok, the rest will. Apologies if you already know this but the listings you have included are all for use with spray equipment...they aren't aerosols, they aren't even paint, just the flake which you mix into clear coat. I was assuming you'd be using pre mixed aerosols before, but using flake like that isn't really an option with aerosols as far as I'm aware. If you fancy CAR you can buy the aerosols from northwest guitar or Rothko and Frost. you'd need primer, silver or gold metallic base, then you spray transparent red (for CAR) then clear. Your easiest bet would be aersols and it'll still be a b******! Expensive too, but it'll be worth it in the end! Also get yourself a respirator.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1477594940' post='3163285'] If it's modern poly, which I assume it will be, I think it is unlikely that Nitromors will touch it (although by all means try it). For me, if it's nitro I reach for the sanding block and if it's poly I reach for the heat gun! [/quote] If it's Nitro reach for the Acetone . A bit on a rag will remove it very quickly...not relevant here so I'll stop going off topic. As mentioned above, quite often you don't have to strip it, you'll have a much easier time if you don't...provided what you're using is compatible. The existing finish will act as a perfect base for subsequent coats if it is. Just give the current finish a good key with 600 or so. Though I could understand the desire to strip and start over fresh too! If you don't strip and pick up a ding you'll likely see the old colour underneath, which a long with a thick finish are about the only downsides. Metallics are not an easy first spray job as you really have to dust the metallic coats on and you can't sand them if you make a mistake (and it's quite likely you will!). Not trying to discourage you, just a warning! I'd probably recommend a non metallic opaque as a first attempt....and not black!

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1477322600' post='3161402'] An alternative to naphtha (which I think is a USA name) is lighter fluid. White spirit is an option but some brands contain heavier hydrocarbon fractions that may not evaporate fully [/quote] Yep, I must be using too many US forums - Naphtha is basically lighter fluid over here, low odor White Spirit is often Hydrogenated Heavy Naphtha also.

It depends, but usually the answer is yes you can just respray over the current finish. It actually has some benefits to doing so as the current paint job should be very flat and even, which gives you a head start. Possible issues could be contaminates on the existing finish or if it's currently an oil finish (in which case it needs stripping). To deal with the contaminates it is good practice to lightly block sand with 600 paper (this also give a bit of a key) then wipe down with naphtha or similar. However if Silicone is present you'll have a nightmare removing it as it just seems to get spread around!

Glad to help and good luck with the restoration.