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Manton Customs

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Everything posted by Manton Customs

  1. [quote name='jimbobothy' timestamp='1481404599' post='3192137'] .... just happened to me, bummer [/quote] I ended up fixing the bass for the OP. The weld on the truss rod anchor had failed, so I replaced the truss rod with a new Warwick rod for him. Get in touch if I can help.
  2. [quote name='PeteS' timestamp='1478964348' post='3173016'] Thanks for the advice, re-crown it is then. Just out of interest - do you think worn frets produces more fret clank with finger style? [/quote] Not directly no, it's either a symptom of a setup which doesn't suit you, strings that don't or technique. Just so you're clear the process is a level, crown and polish...in that order. Just recrowning them is not good practice as it'll not bring the frets to level...but your luthier/tech will know that .
  3. Very little wear there, so a minor fret dress is all that's necessary. If it's playing ok you might not even need that, but if a good luthier does the work it will bring the action down.
  4. If you can get the two surfaces mating perfectly, super glue will hold the nut in place, just a couple of drops is all you'll need. Woodglue is usually PVA based and it does not stick to non porous materials (such as a nut) very well at all. Edit: you also want to get rid of the gap between the fb and nut, it's leaning.
  5. [quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1478809914' post='3171885'] Remeber to clean any previously glued surfaces up with a file. Also when fitting a nut (no matter the nut material) key up (roughen) the mating surfaces of the nut so the glue gets a good bond. [/quote] This is likely your issue - an uneven surface consisting of old glue, meaning your new nut is not making proper contact so the glue is not either. You don't need a different type of nut, but I would advise you to get a luthier or tech to fit the new nut. A well cut and fitted nut makes a dramatic difference to how the bass plays.
  6. [quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1478416913' post='3168877'] Definitely been frequenting too many US forums [/quote]
  7. Feel free to PM me for more info if you go ahead. If it's an oil finish (as Warwicks often are) then it's not a big job to slim it down a little.
  8. Setting intonation using harmonics doesn't really work as it does not bring the fret into the equation. You should be able to get intonation dead on at the 12th (fretting), if you can't there is either a setup issue or a problem with the strings themselves. Based on what you've said it does sound like you've got a bad set of strings. It happens! Usually an incorrectly cut nut will make notes sharp, but take a look at the nut and make sure nothing looks off. Have a look at the bridge saddles also. Having pickups set too high will make the note fluctuate rather than being sharp or flat. What's it like elsewhere on the neck? Particularly the first few frets.
  9. West system Epoxy, you'll want the slow 206 hardener. Be careful not to get it on your finish (if the bass currently has one) as it won't come off!
  10. The normal way is to mix it into your clear (as in what would be inside the can on an aerosol...obviously not possible). But yeah it looks like in that thread he's just been kind of throwing it at it, sort of mixing it on the outside. Which I haven't seen done before. Maybe you could try that also, if you'd be happy with those kind of results. Or the premixed aersols if you'd like more conventional results.
  11. Yep, keying basically means slightly roughing up the surface, a rougher surface (within reason!) will help the paint grab onto the tiny scratches. Whereas a smooth surface can be quite slick. Also give it a thorough wipe down with lighter fluid or similar once you've keyed it. There are loads of different variations on poly finishes, incompatibility is rare but to make sure give it a quick test spray of primer and make sure it adheres well. If the primer goes on ok, the rest will. Apologies if you already know this but the listings you have included are all for use with spray equipment...they aren't aerosols, they aren't even paint, just the flake which you mix into clear coat. I was assuming you'd be using pre mixed aerosols before, but using flake like that isn't really an option with aerosols as far as I'm aware. If you fancy CAR you can buy the aerosols from northwest guitar or Rothko and Frost. you'd need primer, silver or gold metallic base, then you spray transparent red (for CAR) then clear. Your easiest bet would be aersols and it'll still be a b******! Expensive too, but it'll be worth it in the end! Also get yourself a respirator.
  12. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1477594940' post='3163285'] If it's modern poly, which I assume it will be, I think it is unlikely that Nitromors will touch it (although by all means try it). For me, if it's nitro I reach for the sanding block and if it's poly I reach for the heat gun! [/quote] If it's Nitro reach for the Acetone . A bit on a rag will remove it very quickly...not relevant here so I'll stop going off topic. As mentioned above, quite often you don't have to strip it, you'll have a much easier time if you don't...provided what you're using is compatible. The existing finish will act as a perfect base for subsequent coats if it is. Just give the current finish a good key with 600 or so. Though I could understand the desire to strip and start over fresh too! If you don't strip and pick up a ding you'll likely see the old colour underneath, which a long with a thick finish are about the only downsides. Metallics are not an easy first spray job as you really have to dust the metallic coats on and you can't sand them if you make a mistake (and it's quite likely you will!). Not trying to discourage you, just a warning! I'd probably recommend a non metallic opaque as a first attempt....and not black!
  13. [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1477322600' post='3161402'] An alternative to naphtha (which I think is a USA name) is lighter fluid. White spirit is an option but some brands contain heavier hydrocarbon fractions that may not evaporate fully [/quote] Yep, I must be using too many US forums - Naphtha is basically lighter fluid over here, low odor White Spirit is often Hydrogenated Heavy Naphtha also.
  14. It depends, but usually the answer is yes you can just respray over the current finish. It actually has some benefits to doing so as the current paint job should be very flat and even, which gives you a head start. Possible issues could be contaminates on the existing finish or if it's currently an oil finish (in which case it needs stripping). To deal with the contaminates it is good practice to lightly block sand with 600 paper (this also give a bit of a key) then wipe down with naphtha or similar. However if Silicone is present you'll have a nightmare removing it as it just seems to get spread around!
  15. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1476672846' post='3156163'] Ahh, many thanks for the tips. Yes, I was thinking that of the dips. Is there any way that you would use to fill the dips though? The way I was thinking was strip the neck and sand it flat, then re-fret. This could be done, of course on just part of the neck, but to do the job right it would be good to have all the frets the same. Warwick sell the frets in pre-cut lengths. The advantages of going there, as I see it are: 1. The wire gauge is right. 2. The wire would be of a good quality. 3. Their fret wire is yellow brass all the way through and won't turn silver when polished. The disadvantages are that Warwick's price isn't exactly budget and having cut pieces means there's no slack really if I do mess one up in the timing. Re-fitting frets after sanding the neck would be impossible I guess? [/quote] When I mentioned that the dents would need to be removed I was actually referring to the tiny dents you left in the fret wire (if you decide not to refret), sorry if that wasn't clear. The scars on the board itself are just cosmetic, but it'd be nice to take them out also. Filling them would never end up looking right, so yes as you describe; you can sand or scrape them out. Just careful with the radius...use a flat block and sand along the neck not across, a radius block is not necessary. You could try to scrape them out without removing the frets first and see how you get on, it's difficult to tell from pictures if that'd be possible. You could buy the Warwick wire, or you could head over to the Tonetech website who sell Jescar EVO wire in a variety of sizes, so measure your current wire and find one of theirs which matches. Jescar wire is the best you can get in my opinion and the EVO variety is a brass alloy also (so yellow). It's most likely cheaper too and comes coiled (uncut). Refitting frets is perfectly possible if you're careful removing them, but as yours are pretty knackered anyway I'd get some new ones. You might have some fun removing the frets, as Wenge is very splintery and can come out in big chunks, so take care. If you feel you're getting out your depth once started you could post me the neck and I'll give you some B.C discount .
  16. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1476654979' post='3156112'] Many thanks for your reading this and your helpful information. I leveled the frets down until the dents were just about gone, then used a crowning file to give some kind of crown. The file is now grounding on the FB and not really doing much to improve the crown. I guess the next stage is to take needle files to the sides as they're not as tidy as I'd like. The height at the lowest is below 1mm though. I don't have anything to measure with more accurately. If I did I don't think my eyesight would hold out to read it anyway. It's interesting what you say about the slots. I did wonder how one can cut a saw blade slot and not go through the sides. So the method, I guess, would be to cut to length, and then clip off some of the tang each end, then make good with a file. [/quote] No problem . To get everything perfectly level and the bass playing it's best you need to get rid of the dents, as these are low spots. Yes, if your crowning file is hitting the board you can shape them in the traditional way with a three corner file. You should be able to find plenty of info online on doing this. For future work you could roughly measure the lowest point with either the depth gauge on calipers, or feeler gauges (which should be more accurate). Around the 0.6/0.7 mm point is when I start to think about a refret. A lot of small wire starts life at around 1mm, so it has to be quite bad to truly require a refret. Though often people don't like to play on low frets so have them refretted earlier. Yep, clipping the tangs is the way to go when refretting a board like these. it's also how you refret a bound board, so a useful skill to have. Clipping the tangs off neatly is not particularly easy without the right tool or really taking your time with a Dremel. They tend to distort if done with an inappropriate tool, which ruins the wire!
  17. It's not too difficult to trim the tangs back if you go the refret yourself route. On the Warwick necks I've worked on the frets slots are not cut so the edges don't go through the edge of the fingerboard, but they are simply filled after the (tang trimmed) frets are installed. The current frets look like they need a bit more leveling and crowning action if you're going to keep them, I can still see the wear on (especially) the second from left fret and the fret to the very left...You don't want that. Regarding how low the wire can go, the fretboards (nearly) the limit really, as long as you can crown them and are comfortable playing on low frets. There still looks enough material there, can you take a measurement at the lowest point?
  18. That should be fine, I use 10 as my standard and I believe Rickenbacker use 6 degrees.
  19. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476296805' post='3153187'] No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above. There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue. ....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds [/quote] What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle.
  20. [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476225593' post='3152567'] You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet. I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful [/quote] As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively. Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret. It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome
  21. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1476131327' post='3151674'] Or the more 'direct' method, loosen truss rod, hold neck in left and right hand with middle of fretboard resting on or against knee. Give the neck [b]slight gentle pressure [/b] to aid the forward bow, no need to remove the neck. If this terrifies you (no reason why, I have used this method on many basses with no ill effect) you can achieve the same by placing the bass strings down on a flat surface (table) and putting a thin paperback book in the middle of the neck. Apply [b]gentle[/b] downwards pressure at both ends of neck. [/quote] I've done that before also, but the clamping method is more effective and having both hands free with a clearer view of what's happening is a plus. If it's a double action truss rod it obviously wouldn't be necessary though. Fender stopped using the bi flex rod in 95, so it's a slight possiblity this bass could have one being a 96. To find out just try and back the nut out. Edit: and no, removing the neck is not a necessity, just my preference and wise if you're using clamps
  22. Tightening the truss rod nut removes relief, so don't do that! To induce some relief you have a few options. Heavier gauge strings would work fine and after being on for a few weeks you could most likely go back down to regular gauge and the relief will hold. Alternatively you could tune up a note or two and leave it for a few weeks. Or remove the neck, loosen truss nut fully (if it isn't already) clamp into a slight forward bow and tighten the nut. All three should work, but as you're selling it I'd probably just put some heavier gauge strings on it and sell it like that.
  23. The finish won't affect anything to do with a general setup. What is it you're concerned about?
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