Manton Customs

That should be fine, I use 10 as my standard and I believe Rickenbacker use 6 degrees.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476296805' post='3153187'] No - it's firm against the zero fret. As you say, with a zero fret, the nut is cut fully deep as it is just providing lateral positioning and not vertical. I think Manton Customs has probably explained the causes of what I'm experiencing above. There is, having said that, the possibility of a slight issue with the nut area - for a bit of a construction-related experiment, I have left the headstock angle at pretty much the minimum that would normally be recommended. I was aware this might prove to be a bit too shallow for a decent break angle. No point in assessing it until the other bits relating to the set up are sorted. There are a number of ways round it if it is an issue. ....and you all thought this was one of my more conventional builds [/quote] What angle did you go for? Gibsons tend to be excessive (usually 14 or even 17) and there's really no need for such a steep angle.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1476225593' post='3152567'] You are quite right about the zero fret. It's that logic why I've always used the same height for 6-string electrics and, logically, it must hold true also for basses. Maybe I've just got a high spot on fret 1...I haven't levelled them yet. I've discounted the possibility of recessing for the bridge...a sure way for it to end in tears with this particular shape. The thought is to slot the saddles (prob need about 3mm) and the go for the tried and tested through body stringing. That's why measuring a replacement bridge could be useful [/quote] As you've found out, the zero fret should be a fraction higher, just as a nut slot is a fraction higher. This is because of the way the neck arcs (or doesn't) around the first fret. So a little bit of "relief" is needed from the zero fret, as the truss rod won't provide it in this area very effectively. Simple to fix though, just don't level the zero when you do the others, if that doesn't give enough clearance just pull it and install a higher fret. It's looking great and no build is complete without a few obstacles to overcome

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[quote name='3below' timestamp='1476131327' post='3151674'] Or the more 'direct' method, loosen truss rod, hold neck in left and right hand with middle of fretboard resting on or against knee. Give the neck [b]slight gentle pressure [/b] to aid the forward bow, no need to remove the neck. If this terrifies you (no reason why, I have used this method on many basses with no ill effect) you can achieve the same by placing the bass strings down on a flat surface (table) and putting a thin paperback book in the middle of the neck. Apply [b]gentle[/b] downwards pressure at both ends of neck. [/quote] I've done that before also, but the clamping method is more effective and having both hands free with a clearer view of what's happening is a plus. If it's a double action truss rod it obviously wouldn't be necessary though. Fender stopped using the bi flex rod in 95, so it's a slight possiblity this bass could have one being a 96. To find out just try and back the nut out. Edit: and no, removing the neck is not a necessity, just my preference and wise if you're using clamps

Tightening the truss rod nut removes relief, so don't do that! To induce some relief you have a few options. Heavier gauge strings would work fine and after being on for a few weeks you could most likely go back down to regular gauge and the relief will hold. Alternatively you could tune up a note or two and leave it for a few weeks. Or remove the neck, loosen truss nut fully (if it isn't already) clamp into a slight forward bow and tighten the nut. All three should work, but as you're selling it I'd probably just put some heavier gauge strings on it and sell it like that.

The finish won't affect anything to do with a general setup. What is it you're concerned about?

Car paints are often acrylic, so acetone will most likely work. Just apply using a rag and it should rub off easily.

What did you spray it with? If it was Nitro Acetone will remove it easily and leave the original Poly intact.

[quote name='Nathan1709' timestamp='1475181133' post='3143894'] The tip about starting with the 2000 grain paper and increasing the coarseness as required is a really good idea. I'm planning on totally stripping the guitar down to its constituent parts so I'll have an unadorned body to work with. Do you think I'd be better with a really fine grain wire wool rather than wet and dry paper? I really appreciate all the help! [/quote] Either will work fine As you've got it I'd use the 2000. Just make sure you use a block to keep it flat on the top and back, you can use Steelwool on a block (and wet) also. It'll take very little effort to uniformly dull it.

For the finish you don't need to work through the grades. We do that to level the finish and yours will already be perfectly level. So start at the grade of paper you anticipate finishing on, 2000 may well work, but if that's not dull enough you can always go down a grade after testing it. Sand wet but don't get water in any open holes, or the wood will swell and you'll crack the finish. Quite a few people like 0000 steel wool for this deglossing job, but make sure you've removed the pickups and placed them a long way away if you go that route! Whatever you do go nowhere near any finish with the 240 grit you mentioned, that will most likely scratch it beyond repair. Speaking of "scratch it" have you tried them for the pick guard? Good luck .

No, adjusting the truss rod will not change the tension of the strings....neither will raising the action actually, as the two fixed points are still in the same place and the mass of the string still the same. The only way is different strings, stiffer feeling ones, or higher gauge. Edit, that was in response to post 12

As mentioned in your other thread, it's Alder. It's also no where near needing a refret, those frets could be levelling and crowned a few more times yet and this is not an expensive job.

PM sent

It's Alder and poly.

What a hideous job he did! I'd be glad to help, but you can probably find someone closer, as posting a neck through bass is no fun. It's not a difficult or lengthy job for anyone with any experience.

[quote name='gsgbass' timestamp='1473907407' post='3134041'] Excuse my ignorance, but not being from around these parts, What is "white spirit"? Is it like a mineral spirits, etc.? [/quote] Yes mineral spirits

A single action rod as used on most Fender basses will not put any real stress on a skunk stripe. So I wouldn't be too concerned. If it was in any danger of popping out it'd be mid way down the neck at the thinnest point of the skunk stripe (the truss rod rout is curved). It looks just like the wood moving a bit as mentioned earlier. It can be fixed, but it'd require a refinish to look 100%. Careful touch ups could get it looking decent enough though. A double action truss rod can put stress on the back of a neck though. These are the type of rods used by luthiers and home builders. Typically they will not be used in conjunction with skunk stripes.

How much by...Can you post a pic? It's most likely just where the different species of wood have swelled and contracted at different rates.

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1473255386' post='3128382'] Many thanks for the information. I've been getting some really good results using Halfords car paint and Halfords lacquer. More recently, due to folk asking me to finish things in nitro, I've been using nitro lacquer. I'd thought it seemed thinner and needed more coats to get, what I thought, an acceptable finish thickness. I'm guessing Halfords paint is almost certainly acrylic. In my post I have to confess I wasn't taking on board that paint in some countries may not be to the standard of UK marketed paint. I still doubt that any rattle can guitar paint sold in any country will be any better than rattle can car paint sols in that same country. It's far more likely that it all comes from the same factories, but with different labels. Specifications and ingredients may change, so some will be more resilient to damage than others. So which type would you go for for a tougher finish? [/quote] No problem . Yes, if you're comparing like for like, i.e Nitro car paint against Nitro guitar paint, there won't be much (if any) difference. Though some companies will use more solids in their Nitro. However, if not comparing like with like, acrylic will behave and perform quite differently to Nitro. If I had a choice between Nitro and Acrylic I'd go for Nitro, purely for the fact it's what people want most of the time for refinishes. But that's not to say I particularly like Nitro... I don't like it's toxicity, it's temperamental nature to moisture and sanding dust, fisheyes, or the way it seems to suck any dust in the surrounding counties towards it when spraying! All of these can be overcome of course and they are only really issues to the guy spraying it. For my builds I use a water based lacquer (through pro spray gear) which does not have any of those drawbacks, or they are at least minimised while still looking just as good....eg: [url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Manton%20Customs%20True%20Temperament%20Echo%20MKII/Manton%20Customs%20Echo%20MK%20II%20True%20Temperament%201%20Main.jpg.html"][/url]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1473231631' post='3128108'] Thanks. I appreciate that. I wonder, though, if the reason the original finish is cracked is because of it being nitro and un-able to handle some of the environmental conditions the bass has been exposed to? Fender's quality isn't great. But it's not usually THAT bad. [/quote] It wont be nitro (if it were neither of us should be suggesting mechanical stripping!). Fender haven't used Nitro since the 60s except on a few special models and even these will not check/crack like the old nitro finishes. This is for two reasons- fenders modern nitro is sprayed over a poly base coat which really reduces the chance of checking. And two, the modern nitro they now use is full of plasticisers to prevent this. Regarding why Nitro over car lacquer, the main reason is tradition! A lot of people (not including myself here) will also believe a thinner finish is superior and a Nitro finish is one of the thinnest you can get due to the fact it will shrink back for years. There is also a hell of a lot of bad quality car aerosols out there! The burn in factor is definitely nice too, especially for repairs, but if you know what your doing you won't get witness lines from Poly either. But the car lacquer you've been using could well be acrylic?

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1473168984' post='3127607'] Getting it converted wouldn't be much cheaper than just getting a new neck. With a new neck you are not harming resale value and you also have the option of switching back again! Sims start at £285 for a maple neck, I assume that includes frets so a fretless should be a fair whack cheaper! [url="http://www.simscustom.com/html/00pricing.htm"]http://www.simscusto...l/00pricing.htm[/url] [/quote] Yep definitely the best option to go with a new neck . It's perfectly possible to replace a fingerboard, I've done it numerous times but they were occasions where it was the only option. But in this case a new neck would be the best approach. The Sims prices aren't quite as cheap as £285 (unless I'm misunderstanding them). I understood it as £235 for the machining, £50 for the neck blank and this doesn't seem to include a fingerboard! Which is another £35. I also don't believe it includes finish, which is a necessity on a Maple board and looks like that would be another £135. So £455. Long story short...I'm cheaper . Get in touch if you'd like a quote.

Glad to help . The price to a basschatter would be approx £200.

It'll be basswood or Alder and neither require grain filling so you'd be fine to prime, spray colour coats then clear. You could even skip primer, but you'll most likely use more colour getting the depth, primer will also fill any small pores better. So I'd spray primer first.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1472318048' post='3120349'] I can't believe this conversation is happening... Use pretty much anything as a shim, credit card, vaneer, whatever... it makes zero difference to tone or anything like that - that's all a myth. If the screws are tight enough, the job is done. And a shim is a common practice utilised by many luthiers, including those that are considered "world class",I would certainly argue that it is not a failing in it's manufacture. [/quote] Why, what's wrong with discussing preferences and offering advice based on experience? Nobody is debating anything or dictating how it should be done . I also think you're misunderstanding a bit, or at least jumping to conclusions: I don't believe anyone here has mentioned tone and I'd agree with you, it's not going to alter the sound of the bass . However certain materials will hold up better over time (card will compress for example). I believe you're last paragraph is referring to my post earlier. I stand by that fully. There is nothing wrong with using a shim to resolve an issue. However no professional luthier is going to use a shim on a new build, if they did then they miscalculated. There is no good reason to rely on a shim if you're starting from scratch, the angle should be milled into the neck pocket or the neck itself. Or in the case of Fender style instruments no angle but the pocket cut to the correct depth.