HowieBass

From what you've said about what you've already soldered you ought to find it an easy job to fit a new jack plug.

If it's running hot that suggests to me that you could be close to or exceeding the maximum current draw that the PS-M12 is capable of. Have a look at what each pedal/device needs in amps; it won't be the voltage that's the issue here but how much current each device is trying to pull from the adapter. From the website here are the specs: "[b]Yankee PS-M12[/b] is a unit that gives a combination of 7 DC and 2 AC outputs – split into 3 separate sections. The first section has 5 x 9V DC outputs with maximum voltage of 900 mA. The second section has 2 outputs. Each of them can be manually set. First output : 6V, 12V DC, 18V DC or 24V DC and second output: 9V, 12V, 15V or 18V. Max. current for this section is 600 mA. The third section is made of 2 AC outputs: 1 x 9V AC and 1 x 12V AC.. Only one output can be used at a time. The section outputs 1200 mA."

Second hand Squier Deluxe Jazz V Active or a new Squier VM Precision V - these will be slightly wider string spacing than say an Ibanez.

[quote name='barneyg42' timestamp='1441529532' post='2859457'] WARNING!!! Over 5 minutes long!! [media]http://youtu.be/9BWByvs_ITQ[/media] [/quote] I'd rather watch Brian Cox playing a synth

[quote name='bubinga5' timestamp='1441445714' post='2858912'] put the strings on, and stretch/pull them. it pulls the windings to there optimum capacity.thus pre-empting there natural stretch and going out of tune over time. its a must when putting on new strings for me. tune up, then pull on a string then check your tuning. [/quote] With respect this isn't the OP's problem. His strings have been fine (keeping in tune) for well over a year; it's only after around 18 months use that the strings aren't intonating correctly. These are old strings going 'bad'.

There might be a loss of elasticity over that time with a degree of work hardening too - if you can't get them acceptably in tune along the neck it's time to ditch them.

Didn't one of the design guys from Genz Benz join Mesa Boogie? Might be involved with this new product line...

Check out Scott Devine - he has his own website and YouTube channel - TONS of free stuff and includes music theory as well as technique. http://www.scottsbasslessons.com http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWTj3vCqkQIsrTGSm4kM34g

I also had a read online to see what the differences are between the two body woods; some people seem to prefer the ovangkol whilst others prefer the bubinga for the influence on tone (and we all know how much of a dispute there is on the influence of tone woods). Ovangkol seems to be the lighter in weight where people have had chance to compare the two side by side and thus preferable for some. To the OP; were you given chance to plug it in and play it and if so did you like the tone?

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1441010754' post='2855214'] Trial and error is actually the best way to set a compressor! There are no 'magic' settings, as the results depend so crucially on the bass, the pickup selection and tone setting, and most of all the way you play. Having said that, there is a very good guide to setting up your compressor on the [url="http://www.ovnilab.com/articles/setup.shtml"]Ovni Labs website[/url]. Enjoy! [/quote] +1 for Ovni Labs! The FAQ is about as detailed as it gets http://www.ovnilab.com/faq.shtml

I also suspect that most of the undesirable string noise will be masked by the other instruments in a band setting - if you listen to isolated bass tracks from well known rock songs you can often hear a fair bit of noise but it just seems to disappear in the full mix.

It's more common for the nut slots to be too shallow rather than too deep. When the slot is too shallow you have to push down harder to fret the string at frets near the nut; this will cause intonation problems because you're having to stretch the string to make contact with the fret. One thing I hadn't thought of earlier was the neck might have a slight twist/warp that could affect tuning - does the curvature/relief look the same for the G and the E?

I think you'd put your noise gate after the compressor but it might be that you've got noise from using too high a setting for the makeup gain (which in turn might be because the ratio is set too high). The other thing I'd check is that you've got decent cables just in case there's any noise coming from those.

I'd vote for a bad string too, either twisted or it has some slight kinks in it somewhere. It doesn't make sense (to me) that there can be much wrong with the frets if the other strings are intonated correctly right the way along the neck. Check the nut slot depth though, if it's too shallow you'll have issues with the fretted notes nearer the nut. Neck relief should be a slight concave bend, I hope that's what you mean when you say there's a 'nice concave bend' because it's thickness of card territory you're after.

Is it too early to mention Nicki Minaj?

Review for them here http://nwavguy.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/beyerdynamic-dt-770-pro-80-review.html and by the looks the 80ohm could be the one to go for assuming you don't ever want to use them with something like an iPod (battery powered devices will struggle to power higher impedance headphones which is why the highest impedance 'phones usually need a dedicated headphone amp).

I'd be inclined to suspect the output jack socket and whether there's a poor connection involved - could be the hot signal wire either not soldered that well or a short to ground involved. Are you using a cable with a straight plug as I think these put more strain on pickguard mounted sockets than right-angled plugs and might be causing some movement. Whatever it is it shouldn't be hard to fix as P bass wiring is about as simple as it comes.

USB devices need 5 volt supplies, the current draw differs depending on the device - my mobile phone charger is rated at 0.7A, my Hudl 2 tablet charger is rated at 2.0A. AFAIK pedal supplies are usually in the 9 to 12 volt range so I reckon your Voodoo Lab unit would kill a USB device. Depending on the current draw you might be able to use a phone charger or similar.

Yamaha BB?

It's VERY pretty and I'm not the least bit envious, honest...

You might have a slink kink in the string at a previous 'witness' point - anywhere the string was bent. I've read that using flats strung through the body can cause problems because of the stiffness of the windings - they don't like being bent through too sharp an angle. If there's a kink somewhere along the speaking length of the string you'll probably struggle to get correct intonation and quite possibly this is also causing the odd sound too.

Uncle Mat scores again! Happy N(O)BD

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1439328456' post='2842012'] From the picture it looks like the ball ends need to be moved to the left a bit. That would sit them fully into the 'catch' that holds them. Don't know if that helps. [/quote] That hole to the left offers access to the end of the intonation screw so you'd struggle to make adjustments with the ball end jammed in there

The casting looks distorted around the string retaining slots - it almost looks as if someone has tried to lever them open (which to me suggests the metal must be fairly soft). My Cort Curbow has a bridge with a similar slotted design to retain the ball ends, it's as chunky as hell and the strings never move when brought up to tension. You might be better replacing the bridge in the long term.

The fact it has a maple neck, for me at least, argues against the reliced look - I can only imagine a rosewood board looking good with the 'driftwood' finish (and said so earlier). It'll be good to see pics of the finished article!