Twincam

I feel that poor shelding on basses above the more value end of the market is a poor show. So basses 600 and up there's no excuse really. And certainly above the 1k mark as the marketed as professional, "working" instruments.

Passive, then tone rolled off to 7. If using flatwounds then sometimes 10. Active 2 band, bass boosted to 7 and treble around the same or slightly below. 3 band, bass boosted to 7 mids left at 5 or assuming flat. Treble slightly boosted. I find I'm not keen on mids being boosted. Although I don't mind boosting lower mids on an amp.

I honestly thought this was going to end in disaster. Glad all finally went well. Question. You said don't ask but This other bass to Kazakhstan???

There are a few sr pj alike models. The older 80s early 90s sr 400 and 500 Sr750 Sr800 Japan there's one for sale on here, was another on sale here until recently. Sr1000e 90s sr2000 Im a big sr fan, find the ergonomics famtastic. But never found one i trully loved sound wise. However Oh and no sr with a pj combo, sounds like a traditional p bass or jazz or combo. But are closer than the soap bar models I suppose.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polytone-1970-Mini-Brute-I-Solid-State-Bass-Or-Jazz-Amp-100w-Big-And-Warm-/324826585434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 First time I've heard of these. Are they something special? Overpriced?

A touch expensive that. But yes it's not exactly representative of a bass that's just requiring "probably a setup" haha 😆

What a plonker, him not you haha.

Yeah 2, I just assumed the truss rods had no tension in them. Strange

Titebond original red. Repaired headstock/neck breaks and other repairs on wood and it's always lasted. I've even thinned it down and injected it into wood cracks. And it made a strong bond. Don't bother with there other wood glues. Original is the best.

I've actually played 2 new Rick's like that in shops. Funny both of those shops now closed. Probably couldn't sell anything as most things were horrible to play in there.

Bought a Hohner b2a from Nick. Easy and pleasant transaction. Arrived next day after posting. Well packaged. Which I shall be able to reuse. And as described. While not the most expensive of transactions, i wouldn't have any reservations about buying more expensive items from Nick.

I very much enjoyed reading about your former band and equipment. Kept me entertained while waiting for a bass delivery.

You will find technics differ between people who do setup work regularly so I won't try and tell you how best to do anything. I think your just going to have to go for it. If you have watched a lot of videos. But some pointers. Whatever your leveling the frets with, go gently you only need to take a tiny tiny tiny amount off! If your using a long beam or file you do not really need to push down just across will do. Otherwise you can take a lot of material away. Which is worse than too little. If using a file on a single fret every couple of light strokes check the fret with a rocker, to the adjacent ones. Because cut it to low and you will then need to adjusted the next fret, get that wrong and you can end up adjusting fret after fret. Protect the fretboard. I double mask the board, and then cut out the tape that would cover the frets. Others use different techniques but double masking this way I have never marked a board. Protect the nut, I double mask it. Protect the bass, mask any horns is a good idea. Mask over any pickups as fret material and magnets don't mix! Or just remove the neck if easier. The nut will likely need to be adjusted. If leveling all the frets obviously the nut to fret height will be greater. Buy proper designed tools with safe edges. They won't be perfect but will help not scratch anything. There a multiple ways to crown a fret. The easiest way is to use a crowning tool. I use a traditional crowning file as gives greater, but not better control over the crown width. So buy a crowning tool. There's multiple ways of polishing frets. Don't buy polishing rubbers though as there crap. If your in the North East I will happily show anyone in person who wishes to learn.

This might be the reason for the edp wasp playing random notes. For cost reasons, it did not have a mechanical keyboard; instead, it used flat conductive copper plates, hidden under a silk-screened vinyl sticker.[1] This alienated some players who thought the instrument lacked the expression present with a real keyboard.[2] It was also difficult to use in live settings, and according to Gerald Casale of Devo, the synth would play itself when exposed to sweat.

This was taken from my first introduction post back in 2013. "Bought a cheap 15 quid pre wilkinson, Vintage from a mate, that had done the rounds between friends, wasn't in the best of condition and was filthy, so i named it after a girlfriend it reminded me of haha. Bought a cheap Hartke a25 amp locally." Well Laura as i named the bass. Got defretted by me. And some cool go faster strips applied. I sold it on ebay and the person had it refretted apparently.

Well thinner or lower profile frets will wear quicker. But for more occasional roundwound use I wouldn't worry to much. Even with very small thin frets and steel rounds your looking at years before they need replacing. Any fretwork, other than light polishing, reduces the time span till fret(s) need replacing, so thats best done only when it's really needed, especially with the smaller frets. If your still worried when using rounds then maybe switching to stainless frets is a good idea for you.

Good to hear. And if your happy with it that is what counts. And yes certainly from 3 plus mill to in the 2s will feel totally different.

True. Will Lee liked his strings plus 3mm and still complained of fret buzz haha. According to Rodger sadowsky I do feel for a beginner as the op I think stated, then lower action is better.

Dare i say. No easy way out. Robert Tepper. Rocky 4. Just for fun.

I think it's OK for bands not to play exactly like the original. If its say a specific band cover group then as original as possible, but still some differences are ok. If more general genre covering then more leeway I suppose. The biggest thing is that everyone is playing in tune, same key and so on. Seen a few bands where they, have even started off playing entirely different songs from one another! 😄

I feel the action is a bit too high. I can't see the measurement for relief either. And this isn't a reflection at all on the person or there setup skills by the way. Just I also charge people for a instrument work and feel that's a bit high. Really speaking ive found most people like somewhere in this region. On a 4 string, with standard tuning. E should be, 2.3mm - 2mm. A 2mm and lower, D 1.75 to 1.5 mm sometimes lower. G 1.75 - 1.5 and lower. Measured at the 17th fret. Relief .009 - .004. Measured at the 7th fret. Sometimes vintage radius boards 7.5, 9.5 need more relief. Pretty much any bass should be able to do these figures. Even though it may seem, that those numbers are not that different to yours, half a mm here and there, is a huge difference in playability. My current setup is 2.2mm to 1.3mm, relief .004. For comparison.

If that was in the uk and wasn't as expensive. I think I could make that into a half decent 4 string again. Could certainly fix the neck and headstock close to original. Not the worst thing I've seen. Apart from the 5 string conversation for people with thinner fingers of course. 😄

Yes good advice about the fumes and handling of lead solder. And yes as little as possible heat soak into a pot. That low a soldering temperature seems too low to me. And ive never seen that low a temp recommended. However if it works or I'm missing something then fair enough.