Buzz

VPS = Virtual Private Server. Bascially, you make a machine run multiple servers, and a Denial of Service attack (known as DDOS'ing) is someone being horrible and basically prodding it very quickly to see if it would keel over and to stop others using it.

[quote name='nash' post='118331' date='Jan 11 2008, 08:50 AM']isnt the orange point to point hand made? this is most probably a PCB affair[/quote] Good point, I forgot Orange pride themselves on handwired amps. My bad.

[quote name='OldGit' post='118187' date='Jan 10 2008, 09:46 PM']You have to add the import tax which comes as a nice afterthought a week later .. about £35. Speaking to my man Shuker about the Gotoh Bridges he recommends the Fenderalike one they do rather than the 201 as the cast top of the 201 doesn't always fit the brige base well and looses transmission through. The fenderalike is a lot heaveir than the standard fender bent tin. I think it's called the Gotoh Standard Bridge. I like what's written on the headstock and I'm a lable snob .. I'd not wear a Squier in pulic, even a JV ...[/quote] I thought you had a VMJ at one point? I'd certainly wear mine in public, and I fully intend to. If you didn't I apologise, but gear name is not the be all and end all these days, I prefer my Squier VMJ over my MIJ Fender Aerodyne.

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='117930' date='Jan 10 2008, 04:01 PM']Was planning on using my new SX Jazz as an everyday bass, but slipped with the screwdriver when changing the scratchplate...so my work beater bass is an SX Jazz with tortoiseshell scratchplate, gotoh bridge, hipshot ultralites and upgraded pickups...must learn not to go near a bass with a screwdriver...(did a similar thing with a strat last year )[/quote] That's upgraded to a level that most decent Fender bass's won't be, and you call it a beater? unless the neck is really bad, something like that would become my main easily, scratch or not. And scratch's are mojo after all.

The question is, if EBS can sort out a powerful 450w all valve head for under 1k, how come Orange (being UK based) still charge 1.1k+ for an amp half the power?

[quote name='jono b' post='117705' date='Jan 10 2008, 11:20 AM']I'm really after an Ashdown ABM 300 but I can't find one anywhere. Might have look about for Tubepath.[/quote] There's this one in the sale forum: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=9866"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=9866[/url] And a tubepath 10.1 also in the sale forum: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10965"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10965[/url]

[quote name='Raggy' post='116797' date='Jan 9 2008, 09:34 AM']Im weird and only use the front pickup on my Aerodyne. The bass is loaded with a Wizard Thumper and an '84, dont get me wrong the '84 is fantastically strong but the thumper is astounding. Maybe I should be thinking about getting a P bass!!!!![/quote] Although mine are stock pups, I tend to do the same, I found however that the bridge didn't make much difference to the aero if you're using the neck, the p-pup just over powers it. My VMJ is about 90% vol on neck, 40-50% vol on bridge, strung with roto flats, the bridges adds a little bit of a burpy clarity.

Wow. Simply Wow.

The whole point of the gain control is to set a decent level from which the Power amp can amplify the tone. Let's try some sh*tty diagrams: What you ideally want is a smooth level line: [code]-----(in) and ----(ideal level for out to poweramp)[/code] However, in the case of a lower input, they'll be on different levels: [code] ---------- (ideal level to poweramp) -------(in)[/code] Therefore you need to turn up the gain to reach the desired optimum level. The other side is having a really hot input: [code]--------(in) ----------(ideal level)[/code] In which case you'd need to turn the gain down to get the ideal level of signal to the power amp. Essentially, you're trying to set the signal from the pre-amp to a level the poweramp is happy with, the poweramp purely controls the output volume to the speakers, nothing more nothing less. Another way of putting it: A passive bass with say gain at 9* vs a hot bass at 3*, should be at exactly the same volume whatever the master volume is set at. *Only example figures, real figures require experimentation, amps with clipping monitors will give you a very good idea.

Yes, people own the vt5-400 (I think two are in possession of BC, I know one is for sure). Have a gander further down at the affilates forum, and the DHA section. vt5- Preamp review: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5239"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5239[/url] Sudgen's review of his VT5-400: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=6172&hl=dha+vt5"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...&hl=dha+vt5[/url] The search function is your friend at times.

Woah. Thread revive by 5 months. What did you go for in the end OP?

One of these?: [url="http://www.behringer.com/VT999/index.cfm?lang=eng"]http://www.behringer.com/VT999/index.cfm?lang=eng[/url]

A few posts down, might be relevent: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10538"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10538[/url] At least it tells you where to look for problems.

[quote name='Machines' post='111601' date='Dec 31 2007, 07:22 PM']No - I find it a bit weird . They're just referred to by their model name.[/quote] I agree with Machines here, however, each to their own.

Could you not just go shopping at your nearest PC outlet, buy a quiet fan and replace it? I am assuming here that it's a bog standard 12v fan, and of standard 60, 80, 120mm sizes.

Good thought will have to be given to the categories, as we all can agree, looks and sound are subjective to such a hugh degree, whereas things like most features, most innovative and best value for money bass/amp are easy. Also another +1 for the Squier VMJ Series being best value for money basses. I'd also vote Squier for the company showing the most promise at the moment with scope for improvement, with Berhinger coming in second oddly enough.

Specs from Fender's website (with some bits like model number, strings and cases removed, FOR THE AMERICAN VINTAGE, MIJ might be different): Model Name: American Vintage ‘62 Jazz Bass® Series American Vintage Series Colors (800)* 3-Color Sunburst *add $50.00, (805) Olympic White, (806) Black, (Nitrocellulose Lacquer Finish) Body Alder Neck Maple, “C” Shape, (Nitrocellulose Lacquer Finish) Fingerboard Rosewood, 7.25” Radius (184mm) No. of Frets 20 Vintage Style Frets Pickups 2 Vintage Jazz Bass Single-Coil Pickups Controls Stacked Concentric Controls Volume 1. (Neck Pickup), Tone 1. (Neck Pickup), Volume 2. (Bridge Pickup), Tone 2. (Bridge Pickup) Bridge American Vintage Jazz Bass Machine Heads Vintage Style Reverse Tuning Machines Hardware Nickel/Chrome Pickguard 4-Ply Brown Shell on: (800) 3-Color Sunburst, (805) Olympic White, (806) Black Scale Length 34” (864 mm) Width at Nut 1.50” (38mm) Unique Features Stacked Concentric Controls, Vintage Styling '75 specs: :: Close Window Model Name American Vintage ‘75 Jazz Bass® Series American Vintage Series Colors (821) Natural, (Polyurethane Finish) Body Ash Neck Maple, ‘70s “C” Shape, (Gloss Polyurethane Finish) Fingerboard Rosewood (pn# 019-0300) White Binding with Pearloid Block Inlay and White/Black/White PG, or Maple (pn# 019-0302), Black Binding with Black Block Inlays and Black/White/Black PG, 7.25” Radius (184mm) No. of Frets 20 Vintage Style Frets Pickups 2 ‘75 Vintage Jazz Bass Single-Coil Pickups Controls Volume 1. (Neck Pickup), Volume 2. (Bridge Pickup), Master Tone Pickup Switching None Bridge American Vintage ‘70s Bass with Single Groove Saddles Machine Heads Vintage ‘70s "Fender" Stamped Open Gear Tuning Machines Hardware Nickel/Chrome Pickguard 3-Ply White (Rosewood Fingerboard), 3-Ply Black (Maple Fingerboard) Scale Length 34” (864 mm) Width at Nut 1.50” (38mm) Unique Features "Bullet" Truss Rod Adjustment, 3-Bolt Neck Plate with Tilt Adjustment So, basically: Stacked pots on '62 Neck profile might be different slightly (what's special about a 70's style C shape?) The pups maybe Finishes, the 62 is all nitro, the '75 is poly Tuners Pickguard Bridge (maybe saddles only) '75 has 3 bolt neck and the Microtilt system.

911tabs. Stick the song title in and it'll pull up a list of tab sites that have got that tab based on the preferences you choose (aka, choosing bass tabs only)

Go au natural: Failing that, if you really want colour: black, black, maple is loverly.

Nothing bassy, fair bit of sweets though, and a bit of money. No socks or boxers though! Got 3 plain white t-shirts instead

[quote name='Waldo' post='108612' date='Dec 23 2007, 04:45 PM']I don't really take offense, I'm just demonstrating that the lack of a smiley can change the tone of what you've said [/quote] This is an extremely valid point. Out in the real word, we get tone of voice and body language to decide on the context of the conversation, in writing on a forum you only get to read. Smiles help add an extra "context forming" sense to the responces. It's something I've dealt with on other forums regarding the fact sarcasm doesn't come across in text at all.

It's all in the options innit. Woods, neck dimensions, non standard parts etc... Sure you could get something like a Fender MIA, then spend a few hundred upgrading the electrics and hardware, but what if the neck just isn't [i]right[/i] or you fancy a nonstandard shape. Handcrafted items normally have much higher levels of QA as well.

+1 for BassPartsResource Roughly half price AND they're a lovley bunch who mark down the parcels so you don't pay customs.

I had a Peavey Milestone III: I bought it when I was 16, collected it after being picked up from college one day with the parents. Buzzed a bit, tone control didn't do much, was enough to cut my teeth on though, sold on via a friend to his then girlfriend for £30 I think. Still use the neutrik lead and the Peavey Microbass amp though.

Aww, I was expecting an ERB player to have gone crazy rather than just the stock bass part.