Chienmortbb

Ok latest front panel mock up almost ready for wiring. It does not look too bad except some pf the decals are slightly off centre and some off the pots need their location tags removed and the shafts cut to size.

Well I was not happy with the last look so i stripped it, sprayed it Silver and tried again. It is still not perfect but I will use it as is to complete the wiring and if I cannot live with it, will do as passinwind suggested and use Front Panel software from [url="https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/downloads/front_panel_designer/?no_cache=1"]Schaefer[/url]. Current estimate is about £40 for a really professional front panel but if the amps is as good as I hope, it will be worth it. The alternative is to go for an engraved panel from [url="http://modulusamplification.com/CUSTOM_FACEPLATES-W3.aspx"]Modulus[/url]. So on to wiring! Incidentally the empty holes are from left to right, High/Low switch, Input jack, and Mute.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1494253444' post='3294352'] That panel does look quite good for decal paper. I've been using it on various things myself, and the results are rarely entirely perfect. I've found it likes to creep when coated over, and my prints always seem to end up a little low-resolution looking, but I'm not computer savvy enough to figure out why. One thing I do quite like the look of is to apply clear decal paper to the reverse side of 1mm clear polycarbonate and use it as an overlay, rather than applying directly to the metal panel. I would be able to get access to a laser cutter, but I've never got around to sorting out my graphics skills well enough to figure it out properly. [/quote]Applying to the rear of acrylic or polycarbonate sheet in reverse is probably the best idea. That or an engraved panel may be my best step but I am trying one more thing tonight before I give up. More later. As for they graphics, all done on the free drawing package in Open Office or Libre Office. Oh and I do have a Laser printer but only a cheap Samsung one. One more thing. Even the good decal paper is very fiddly. I found when I did the back panel that it was best to cut the decals into the smallest size possible. Much easier to handle.

Well the new cheaper decal papers from Amazon were awful. I have done a front panel with the white decal paper I have. There are some positional errors but it does not look too bad. [size=4]I am going to wire everything up, and test then finish the front panel after. I might still go for an engraved one. here is a mock up with [/size]the[size=4] knobs just resting on top,[/size] [size=4][/size] [size=4] [/size]

Charlie I will build one of your outboards once the Amp is finished.

What a nice bloke. Sold Mick my TC BC212 and he was a pleasure to deal with. Communication was only hampered as I had lost my voice. Happy to recommend Mick to anyone .

I just use the contact details from the website. They have always been helpful.

The others are right about the impedances. The MA100 or MA150 are as you say PA amps that have a simple two was baxandall EQ system but are also designed as mic inputs they won't be ideal for bass.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1493279135' post='3287027'] Hi Charlie, loving your amp designs and can't wait to hear John's (chienmortbb) combo when it's finished. [/quote] A combo is my next project Phil, the current one is a 500 Watt head.

This build is still ongoing. I have been toying with different front panel ideas and decided to stick with the water slide decals I used for the back panel. The front panel is now drilled and sprayed silver. ( pics to follow). I had only one sheet of clear decal paper left and so really made sure everything was right. Put it into the slot for thicker paper and turned to the PC to select print. I thought I heard the printer start to take the paper through and tried to pull it out. MISTAKE. The paper creased and that caused a paper jam. My last sheet ruined. So I have ordered another 5 sheets and hope to have the panel finished next week As with the 1x12 cab build, I have deadline, my next gig is May 13th so you should see progress here's soon.

Date in the diary.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1493291184' post='3287166'] Do you know that in 4.5 years as a member here John has never bought or sold anything? Bit of a slacker I'd say, especially as he makes dealing with him so easy, needs to be trading far more. I bought a 2x12 cab from him, deal done over the phone without any issues and the cab arrived safe and sound. Couldn't ask for a better deal. Top fella, expect trouble free trading. Hope your cold/flu/bug goes away soon.... [/quote]Going for an ENT appointment this afternoon, fingers crossed. thanks for the feedback.

My old Mag 300 was Chinese but spoke fluent bass, never let me down, even without the alcohol.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1493143431' post='3286038'] Another meaningless statistic. Are those figures average or peak level? And do they take into account the duration of the sound? [/quote]Why is it meaningless?

I played through the Rumble at a Blues Jam on Weds and without being rude, it did not sell itself to me. Of course I could not try to dial in my preferred tone but it seemed to lack any mids. Of course the host bassist may like that sound so I would not discount it completely.

It is great that you can A/B them. What don't you like about the Fender Pre-amps? Or rather what is different? I plan to put a Class D amp in my HH alongside the Bipolar Class A/B power amp. I will have a have a switch (or two) so that I can change from one to the other. Sorry to go off topic.

I think you may have hit the nail firmly on the head there. I have been working on an Ashdown MiBass 220 And it is a nicely designed pre-amp that is let down by using cheap opamps. The extra cost of decent ones is quite low, it would put the cost up by about £1.50. (TL072 if anyone is interested). I suspected that the opamps used in the Mesa are no better.

My point was that many people attribute the "valve sound" to the power section. You may want to talk to passinwind about valve pre's (call them tubes though) his PW6 design was a full valve pre although all his recent designs (and the ones he uses ) are SS.

I have been playing at home through the cab since the bash although yesterday I filled the screw holes with dowels and re-painted the cab, pictures below. I said to Phil at the bash, the first thing I noticed was how poor my technique was, there is no hiding place. Over the days since I have tried to improve my technique and I am loving the sound. The cabinet shows how good my old HH amp was for its time. It has a fully parametric Mid control. allowing me to dial in just what I want. I can get a wide variety of sounds. A modern. slightly smaller version of the amp would be great. I am hoping my self build amp does something similar as the EQ is similar (but quieter). The great thing is that if I use the Parametric to get an "old school" peak around 100-200Hz it sounds right, not "old school with a tweeter". That makes sense when you think of it. When you are DI'd through FOH, the speakers are full range. just like when you hear recorded bass on a good HiFi system. Phil mentioned how nice the notes at the dusty end sounded at the bash. That has changed how I play, when I am noodling, I am often at the dusty end (it ain't so dusty anymore) letting those high notes ring. Sadly my next gig is a month away so unless I hire a rehearsal room, I cannot try it too loud. I might frighten the natives and take it to open mic night this week. Pictures: 1. The screws were removed and replaced with dowels. Once dry the top and edges were sanded, ready for being re-TuffCabed. 2. The edges look much better although in future I would just use dowels, or maybe even small battens, and a proper dowelling jig as it was a lot more work this way. It is strange how the pictures show up imperfections well. The join between the top and side is almost invisible to the naked eye and the irregular finish is hardly noticeable. Next put the corners back on and attache the handle. I also need to have the 12@ out as it is held in by wood screws and I have the TEE nuts to make a good safe fix. When I weighed the cabinet I could not find my luggage sales and my bathroom scales were fancy ones that will only work when you stood on them. So I had to weigh myself (13st 9Lbs since you ask and as I am over 6ft, the beer belly does not count). Then I stood on again holding the cabinet. I am not convinced it was accurate so I will try it again with the luggage sales when the handle is on.

Mosfets behave in a similar way to Valves. If you put a transformer on the output you would be just about there. But why bother? It it the transformer that adds a lot of weight and very little that a good compressor cannot. In addition you can switch a compressor off, so giving more versatility.

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1491576986' post='3274108'] That is exactly the sound I'm after! [/quote]Not often someone makes me laugh in here but that tickles me.

I am happy if you get what you want by disconnecting the tweeter. I give my advice freely, you can use it or ignore it as you feel fit. 3.5 KHz is fine from most 12" drivers but only on directly in front, 45 degrees either way loses 6dB and that is only 1/4 of the volume on axis. So people to the side I the room do not hear what you hear. On the plus side the 3.5KHz crossover point is useless to counteract the "beaming" of the12". So it really does nothing for your sound.

[quote name='eddiehoffmann' timestamp='1491400945' post='3272737'] Unfortunately that's not the case. Even with the L-pad turned all the way down there's still a little bit of signal coming through the twitter. I can still hear its annoying noise and I can tell there's a little bit of signal being reproduced. Specially with fuzz. Fuzz and twitters are a match made in hell by satan himself. [/quote]On the Basschat 1x12 Mk2 you can see how complex the crossover design is. That was to get the 12" and Compression Horn or tweeter to sound good together. You cannot just bump a tweeter in and expect good results. Unfortunately even many boutique makers cut corners (and I am not talking kickback cabinets here). The reason you need a tweeter is that a 12`` speaker ends low frequencies everywhere but mids and highs go straight down the middle. Go 45 degrees offline and you might as well be listening to a fart in a plastic bucket filled with foam.

My PA has been kept in my garage for 12 years, no problem. If it has been very cold or damp, I run a low power signal through the speakers for a few minutes to get the voice coil warm and moving before going into my car. As for electronics, keep covers on Mixers and amps and you should be fine.

[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1491247939' post='3271594'] That valve amp looks cool.Must cost a fortune. [/quote]Its cheap to run though as it is green🤓