Chienmortbb

How did yhou find the etch primer? The spray one I used was not tghat good and I need to startt again on the grilee.

I probably should have said it is not ideal to run two full range cabinets and Stevie aims for a no compromise approach. Phil has explained better than I could, but if we ignore the issues Phil mentions, there are real benefits for the DIY builder. These are weight, not using the compression driver and horn saves about 0.5Kg or over one pound weight. Secondly, cost. A good comp driver and horn with cost £70+. Two commercial cabinets may sound great but as we are building ourselves, the cost and weight saving make it more than worthwhile,

We tried the Mk 3 on top of my MK2. The MK2 had the horn stuffed with a micro fibre cloth and so it was effectively a single 12 with an 2 kHz LPF. The results were very encouraging although Stevie thinks 800Hz would be a better. The sound was not noticeably louder and there was no excessive LF/Bass but the lower cabinet seemed to reinforce the sound of the MK3.

Richard is correct. A lower cabinet with a limited top end will help, two full range cabinets is not such a good idea and Stevie has hinted at an idea to run a lower cabinet with a limited bandwidth. However I know he has been busy lately. I think that putting this cabinet on top of your "MK1" may work but it may be a bit middy. Keep an eye o this thread.

Not possible I am afraid. Class D amps with switching power supplies already achieve north of 80% efficiency so you can only achieve probably an extra 20% increase in power from a given mechanical envelope.

They have one of those at one of our local rehearsal rooms. No surprise that it is the cheapest of the three local ones.

The 300W one will be 150ish into 8ohms and a little underpowered for me.

I think the standard labelling for power consumption on ampilfiers is what they consume when operating at a set percentage of output that's supposed to represent normal use. For example, the back of my GK MB200 says "Full power 240w, average power 48.6W" next to the power socket. I'd presume that your Roland quotes the lower figure. Still even considering that, the Behringer's consumption seems small for it's advertised output. Quote power consumption at 1/8 power. This is because speech and music are not continuous and 12.5% is considered the normal power draw. Instrument amplification should be rated much higher, especially bass as the power drawn for lower frequencies is higher.

I'm not 100% sure that the Wharfedales I tried were Class D, but even Class D generates heat under load. Just not as much as other classes of amp. Class D does generate some heat. The power supply and amp are usually 90%+ efficiency so an overall efficiency around 80% for a 500W amp, that still means 100 watts of heat. The irony is that the heat hardly decreases with power as it is the control and aux power supplies that create the heat and they are working all the time and only slightly cooler , even at 1watt output. Of course with Class A/B and a linear power supply, the heat generated will be 3 or more times greater for the same power output.

Ah the Linear 30. Without it there would have been no British rock n Roll.. The guitarist in one of my early bands played a cheap Strat t copy into a Linear 30 then into a cabinet made from an old wardrobe. He had a tone that Gary Moore would have killed for. It really is all in the fingers.

PM payment details to me Mike and I will pay asap

I too was tempted as the T model is now under £200 but I have a £300+ car service on Tuesday.

It’s good that the fan only comes on when needed.

Tuner with a mute?

I was just going to say that I like d the look of the CTS although I don’t rattle their normal pots When I read the “ duff” part.

I quite agree it should be capable of 100+ watts but my point still stands. In the 60s, certainly many US manufacturers used PEAK ratings rather than RMS.

Strictly speaking RMS is the equivalent AC power of a dC power. So 1 watt DC = 1 watt RMS.anything else is ballcocks.

hat is the Ricky pick-ups (runs for cover)

If you do want a new driver, the Beyma 15CVM2 is not too expensive (£52ish) without modelling in WinISD looks to have a decent spec https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=BMA615CVM28&browsemode=manufacturer h

Actually older US made amps were rated in a different way and often only gave half the power quoted compared to a UK made one. Never trust the power rating, just the sound.

Pedant alert. Strictly speaking RMS volts x RMS amps gives Average watts but that sounds more wimpey than hefty RMS watts.

Sorry I went off on one. I am not sure the shape is any different but I cannot be sure. I used to think that the P had the wider neck but in the pictures it looks like the neck is the same. The P does have dot inlays and a pickguard but so do some Jazz versions. I do love the trans red.

Well look at it like this. Roughly £1000 retail. SH shroud brings £400-£600 depending on condition. They are great basses but they are not rare and they are not vintage. Would I swap any US made Fender for mine? No way. If people want to pay silly money for USA made instruments that is up to them. If I had to replace mine I would in an instance but not for £750. Also I love the fact that mine has no pickguard, I would not even go £650 for one with a pickguard. Rant over.

Gold is worse than copper in many ways. The only benefit I can see is that it tarnishes less. Hopwever it is also not durable. One reason you should never use gold plated jack plugs.

Apparently the heft is shinier. On a sensible note. There is no reason to use gold, silver would be an improvement (although no noticeable) but gold is a wasted expense.