Chienmortbb

To be honest power in the UK is fairly clean. Your DI should be able to reject any power noise.

No dimmers use a technique similar to PWM as used in Class D Amplifiers.

The first answer is correct it’s a number of nominally 8 ohm abs are closer to 6 ohm, the 2 ohm setting might be better.

Chris Squire for me. First bassist that made the bass more than a rhythm instrument.

It can be done but both add complication. Pedal supply would be a 9V regulator and the aux supplies on the 125ASX2 has a limited current draw, 350mA if I remember rightly. This is not even enough to power a Zoom B1 ON or B1 Four let alone a Helix. The HX Stomp needs 3A at 9V. I could run the pre-amp supplies at +/-9V to simplify matters but that would reduce the headroom in the preamp. I have assembled a fixed voltage +/- 15VPSU for the preamps Phantom Power could be put in the final unit but for the prototype I want to prove the concept soI am keeping it simple. Personal natters are keeping me from the project at the moment but it is progressing if more slowly than I had hoped.

So true. I have lost count of the times I have heard recorded music through a PA sounding good/OK then the sound is poor when the band come on.

Well trace are no longer, they were bought by Gibson the sold to Peavey years ago. Post a pictures of the problem and some of us will try to help.

Picture please?

Of course to make it really aged you would now need to remove the pickup cover and ashtray bridge cover. 😇 Nice job and I love the blue. On another matter, where did you get the headstock decal?

Input board populated,

The best laid plans.., I ordered some connectors for the two smaller boards but stupidly ordered the wrong pitch. Of course I would have needed a crimp tool too and in the end I decided to use some PCB terminal blocks. They are on order along with some 30mm hex standoffs. The wrong connectors will go on EBay. The standoffs are to mount the power amp module on to an aluminium sheet to add extra heat sinking. Pictures to follow. The input board is now populated and soldered. Just output board to populate and solder the output board.

That jack socket is rated at 10 amps so will be OK. The plug rating is dependant on the mating socket so will be determined by the quality of the jacks Mesa use.

Its OK to be OCD about string alignment along the neck but it does not matter if tye strings are not exactly in line with, or exactly between, the pole pieces on the pick-ups.

I have to say that I prefer the tuner on the floor in front of me.

I have heard the noise occasionally. I will investigate further and report back.

Yes no problem at all here. Power to die for and plenty of tonal variation.

That is the lid of a die cast aluminium box. The connectors and controls will be mounted on the base of the box. I did it this way as the base is flatter than the lid and so easier to get a good seal.

I have finished soldering the parts to the power supply board. Next on to the Input board. The PCB shown below has a space for a bridge rectifier and another large electrolytic capacitor on each rail but they are not needed with the ICEPower module’s dc aux power outputs. As there is more space,I have laid the caps down and fixed them with cable ties. I had to drill the holes for the cable ties but there was plenty of space on the PCB. Remember that this PCB is not needed with the 700AS1 module, only the 125ASX2 or even 250ASX2.

If you can get the 700AS1 module, the auxiliary outputs are already +\- 15V and the preamp power supply is not required. PCB 87A contains the circuits for two balanced line recievers. One will be used as desinged by Rod and the other will be modified as an instrument level input simiklar to that shown in the ESP Project 27. The outputs will be mixed and sent to both the line transmitters on the Project 87B PCB. The output of one will be fed to the two amplifiers in the ICEpower 125ASX2 power amplifier module this will "bridge" the amplifier giving about 450 Watts into 4 ohms but in excess of 270 watts into 8 ohms. This would give the meet original Baschat 1x12 spec of giving 120dB output to keep up with a noist drummer. . The preamp will be housed in a hammond 1590XX diecast aluminium enclosure the PCBs can be seen above here mounted to the lid of the enclosure. the connectors and controls will be mounted to the base of the enclosure. Now to stare loading (or stuffing as our friends across the pond say) the PCBs. starting with the power supply.

I have been awaiting some parts and the majority arrived today. As I have said before the preamp will be basic. As the design assumes the uses of a digital Multi-Effects unit as the main source, there is no EQ on board. Even low cost units such as Zoom B1 Four have easily accessible EQ so it would be a waste to fit more. Passive EQ reduces the signal level and active EQ is more complex. Both will increase the noise of the preamp (what electronic engineers call noise, we hear as hiss). I am using Elliott Sound Products printed circuit boards .There are three PCBs. The first is a power supply board Project 05. This will take the +/- 23V auxiliary rails from the Icepower module.

Catty lol.

I used black Tuff Cab on my pre CNC cab but I am considering covering it with this. https://www.profabrics.co.uk/products/heavy-duty-texturised-nylon?variant=8359083459 it is much tougher than any of the traditional cabinet covers, comes in a range of colours ( including a nice TE green),

Agreed. I think pickups should be buffered before the volume and/or blend pots then there is no interaction.

Your string height is way too high and you will never get that out with a truss rod. Also you should not adjust the truss rod by eye. The order should be: 1. Relief-Truss rod. 2. String Height 3. Intonation 4. Leave overnight 5. Repeat steps 1-3. 6. Play. Firstly your need to adjust the truss rod. Put a capo in front of the nut, behind the first fret. With your right hand fret the fret that is just above the start of the body. The gap between the bottom of the bottom e string and the top of the 8th fret should be about 0.3mm. It would be 0.35 on a long scale. If you don’t have a feeler gauge, a business card is about right. It should just about slide easily onset the string without moving the string. Remember that if you have to tighten the truss rod, loosen the strings first. If you have to loosen the truss rod, there is no need to loosen the strings although it may make it easier. Don’t forget to take the capo off when adjusting. Once the truss rod is about right, adjust the string height with the bridge saddles. It should be 4/64” or just over 1.5mm on the bass side ( low e and a) and about 3/64” or just under 1.5mm in the treble side(under d and g strings) both measured from the top of the 12th fret. If you cannot get the saddles low enough you will need to install a neck shim. Once the string height and relief are correct, adjust the intonation. You should then let the bass rest overnight and go through the process again the next day.

It is not about the conductivity, it is about the shielding effect.