Lfalex v1.1

Argh! Just got my 2002 Infinty SN4 out of its case for a quick blast. Then I took the strings off to clean the fretboard. The pesky Just-a-nut 2 disintegrated as soon as I touched it 😡 Worse still, the tuners are in various stages of destroying themselves. I've already had to replace the E when it sheared the tuning post clean off and shot it across the room. Seems like everything north of the first fret is a catastrophe! I've basses that are much older and have seen heavier use, yet this one seems hell-bent on self destruction. Does anyone have any idea why? Regarding repairs and replacements, which is better ? JAN I JAN III Plain brass or Tusq nut As for tuners, what are the specs I need to determine if other manufacturers' tuners will fit? I'd prefer a direct replacement, and ideally a design without those collapsing nylon washers between the key and shaft. Do Schaller do something appropriate? The ones on my EUB are superb. Thanks in advance (an irascible) Alex.

Nice bass there, mister.

I'd contend that the single greatest contributor to poor bass sound is down to the room it's being used in and how they're set up 8 foot ceilings cause a boost ~50hz. We're all familiar with that "I can't hear it, but the audience can" and "it's firing past my ankles" feeling. That's why I favour a pre-amp for "my sound" which feeds the desk, and then feeds the amp proper which I endeavour to EQ to compensate for the environment it's in so I can at least hear it. Other alternatives; IEMs or a wedge for on stage sound, using a cab for backline only.

Only if it's a BC Rich..

Looks almost like a "right way up" SBV..

Good points. The only reason I've adopted D standard on one bass is for playing along to other bands that are already so tuned. I'd not even consider it in the context of an originals band. I'd use a fiver as well, and likely opt for harmony or counter-melody rather than following the roots notes, certainly for verses (if the structure exists)

Yep. I was going to ask why the OP needs a lot of real-world lf extension? Gigging without PA support? Am I right in thinking that Hoffman's Iron law relates to the parameters of compactness, bass extension and sensitivity; you can only have any two, but at the expense of the third. For example: you can have oodles of bass and good sensitivity, but not in a small box.

Daft or not, that's how I'm going to get E standard from D standard on my SB-2. Capo on the second. It's that or adopt the Zon Michael Manring Hyperbass approach; a de-tuner on all 4 strings! 🤣

My understanding is that drop C# would be C#,A,D,G Whereas C# Standard would be C#,F#,B,E BRX is right, though. Each intended solution requires different approaches.

Totally agree about the preference piece. I'm using 50-110 for D standard (DGCF) and that suits me fine. Feels like my usual 45-100 in E standard. Were I to tune down another step to C#, they'd be workable but a little too floppy for me. I'm using DR Lo- Riders. Have you considered their DDT set? They're supposedly designed for lower tunings.

C'mon Paul, show us more than the headstock!

I used white, but same principle applies- all my instrument cables were/ are black.

I had a Yamaha, it was excellent. I was also looked-down upon by a bass tutor with whose band we were gigging for not playing "proper" bass lines. He played a 764A. So I've been looked-down upon by a Yamaha player (Maybe because I wasnt playing my Yamaha at the time?!)

Thanks @Frank Blank, I'll take you up on that kind offer! I'll shoot you a PM!

A perfectly sensible question! I have 2 other 4 strings tuned to E Standard, but some songs necessitate the low D and the 50-110 lo-riders sound and feel really good at D standard. But the odd tune crops up that just doesn't play well in that tuning (Message in a Bottle by The Police springs to mind) , I'll just slap the capo on rather than tune back up to EADG.

If this weren't so literal, it'd be the best BC euphemism ever!

Because: Rickenbacker, unfortunately.

I can relate to this, also. Given that I rarely purchase something without at least a quick plonk on it, a trip to a decent shop is almost mandatory. And how many decent shops are there left? The reason may be different, but the net effect is the same; I don't try things i shops very much, therefore no purchases are made.

Nope! There's been a bass I wish I'd bought (a Ken Smith 6- also in the Wapping Bass Centre, btw) but that would have supplemented my Vigier Series III not replaced it. Everything I've bought since the Vigier has been something different, sometimes wildly different. I've seen a few instruments that I'd like to try/acquire/buy, but they're quite obscure (Fender Roscoe Beck, BassLab L-bow etc.) But I can't see them making me regret the Vigier. I've had it for 26 years (!) now.

Use multi-coloured strips... 12 Different colours, one for each note, repeated all the way up and down the board 😀

DRs are around the £33-35 mark at Strings Direct at the moment. (For a 4 string, uncoated set- Lo Riders, Hi/Fat/Sun beams etc.) Nearly £40, but not quite.

Bit of some sort of petroleum-based Solvent ought to clean that off. Then it'll evaporate away.

At least I'm not the only one who thinks it looks like a tin-opener! They should do a steel insert for it so you can open bottles with it. Useful on stage, I'm sure...

I've played an ASAT many moons ago. I recently acquired an SB-2 Tribute. The ASAT had a glossier neck finish, but that's all I can remember. I can't fault the nut cutting, fret work and fit/finish on the SB-2. The bridge and pickups are the same as the American instruments. Not sure about the tuners, though.

[Sound of tape measure] I can confirm that my SB-2 Tribute is 38mm. Presumably they share a neck with the LB-100? Fretboard radius is 12.5" on the Tributes. I think the American versions are about 9/9.5"