Lfalex v1.1

Let's put it this way... I'd certainly have another 1048h of the same vintage as mine. If only other parts of my life could withstand it!!

Did some one say "pointy"? Just reminded me of another colour-matched headstock, neck and body... Apologies for blurred photo, missing string and dead pots. Soon to be reborn, methinks. I have sufficient spare bits to go either black or chrome with the hardware, and I might chuck a BadAss on there. I'm open to pick-up suggestions... The current ones are "HardPunchers" Any relation to a certain Tokai "P" copy?

Must've missed it, although I had seen it before and considered using one in mine. [i]Assuming[/i] that they've got 4 wires coming out of them (as many twin-coil designs do), it would allow series, parallel and single coil options for the Twin Jazz. I reckon they're currently wired to run in parallel and are tapped for single coil operation by pulling up the treble control on the stacked set (well, mine is!) If you were to pursue this route, beware of the fact that the series setting might well cause an imbalance in the levels between the single jazz and twin jazz pick-ups. Sure, a swift adjustment of the pan control would fix that, but it might cause issues if you change your settings mid-song. Other points to note (Sent to me via E-mail from the Warwick techs in the US. They're excellent, BTW) The MEC pick-ups have blade pole-pieces rather than 4 or 8 round ones. The coil of the twin jazz used in single-coil mode is the one nearest to the neck. The MEC 2-band eq won't handle 18v operation. Looking at the NT Infinity, the Bridge pick-up looks more central than the SN Infinity. Here's mine; I wouldn't assume that they're necessarily that similar! Warwick do seem to raid their electronics parts bin quite randomly!!

(I own an Infinity SN4) Pick-up choice is quite restricted due to the Twin Jazz at the Bridge. I thought that Delano did one that fits, but couldn't find it on their site. EQ-wise, the world is your oyster. Might be worth having a look through the Warwick.de forum to see what everyone else is using, or post a question over there?

It's never really bothered me, but I do have 3 with matching headstocks. 2 have matching Necks AND Fretboards (!) too... There's no accounting for taste! Just as well that they all play well and sound good! I should imagine the original natural headstock concept was driven by cost and ease of manufacture.

Wicked! Liking the Delanos! 4 pole-pieces always looks better than 8 on s/c jazz pick-ups IMHO. (Says the man with 8-pole units in all his Jazzes!) Good colour choice, and I love the "no pickguard screw-holes" look...

Nifty Thumb, there. I like it!

[quote name='BigRedX' post='230016' date='Jun 30 2008, 08:29 PM']Fencing wire - it'll have the same feel as a set of Rotosound flats![/quote] Un-ravel some of that green peerless fencing, and it'd be the same as coated strings...

This works well on any Humbucker with adjacent coils like the MMHB. Fore/Aft tilt can only be achieved if said pick-up has 3 or more screws. Remember that "flat" would be relative to the strings and not the body, though!!!

Just bought an MXR M-80 today. Well built. I'll give it that. Otherwise, a bit disappointed that the EQ and Drive aren't independently switchable. Well, you can have the EQ without the Drive, but not the Drive without the EQ. I quite like a bit of mild Overdrive or soft-ish distortion, but I can't find anything that'll deliver the goods. This included. The list so far; USSR Big Muff. Too OTT. Not controllable enough and no wet/dry balance. Boss ODB-3 (in a Boss ME-8b). Wasp in a jar... FX Grunge Pedal. Like opening a shaken can of fizzy drink. Not enough tonal options either. Hartke VXL. Not bad. Controllable, and the DI's excellent. Runs on phantom power. But no facility to run Eq without the Drive involved. "Shape" facility is evil. Peavey Max Bass (Pre-Amp) 2 channel. Footswitchable between Valve and Solid state stages (or combine them) Good on paper, but the Valve stage is limited to 2 AX7s and has passive tone controls which lack clout when compared to the solid state stage EQ. Can't OD the Valve stage enough to get much OD.Clicks when switched between SS and Tube. Ampeg SVP-Pro. Perfect. Well, nearly. A whole extra AU7 valve just for OD, and it works, too. Can be wound right up and never loses control (See Big Muff!) Can even get a different OD/ Distortion from Pushing the AX7 in the gain stage too hard. Or combine them in varying amounts. BUT... You can't switch the OD on or off. Just set it and forget it. Grrr! I'm going to try sticking the M-80 in front of the Ampeg to see if the two together can do something worthwhile. I find the M-80's drive too artificial and hard edged. Basic tone's good enough, though. Haven't tried the DI yet, but you guys seem to like it. Next victim? Got to be the EBS, really. I've tried the Sans Amp BDDI and didn't get on with it very well. Not enough mid control. Therefore avoided the programmable one. Wouldn't mind a bash at the ParaDriver, though.

I'm not familliar with MG's work or his tone, but if it's fluency you're after, then a low action is definitely beneficial. To stop buzzing with a "borderline" action, it is necessary to revisit your plucking hand technique (in terms of delicacy). If you start "digging in", which I reckon most of us start to when under presure or playing live, then you're probably striking the strings too hard for a bass with such a low action to escape buzzing / clanging. Ramps definitely help (or having a pick-up in the right place!) Another helpful step is to turn up your pre-amp gain to a point that renders your non-delicate style too loud or distorted, and adjust the amp's output volume to suit the situation. In this way, you'll start edging into overdrive if you're hitting the strings hard enough to get buzz. I've found that it "warns" me that I'm playing too hard and I ease off accordingly... plus it improves the signal/noise ratio of your bass... The above assumes that other aspects of your chosen instrument are as close to perfection as can be achieved; Fret wear / Relative "Levelness" of frets. Neck relief. Neck Stability. Tinkering with your pickup height/ tilt may help even out any tonal / volume loss from playing with a lighter touch. Bear in mind that string gauge choice makes a difference, too. Lighter strings are more responsive, but run lower tensions, and so have a larger vibration loop. Maikng them more likely to hit the frets as they oscillate. Heavier strings are less responsive, but deepen tone and have a smaller oscillation loop due to higher tension and may allow a lower action because of this. If MG is Tuned CGDAE, it might explain his choice of a "Medium" 0.100 gauge "E" string. I'd ASSUME his set runs something like; .025, .045, .065, .080, .100 Give or take 0.005 here or there!!

+1 to Ped's Kahler 2400 nomination, but for a different reason! I don't have an issue with the relative lack of height adjustment given by the bridge barrels, but the intonation grub screw is a real pain to get to, and it's tiny (2.5mm allen). Okay, set it and forget it, but it's difficult to do. A fact that is somewhat at odds with the design allowing you to change the action without tools, switch strings without having to thread them through anything, and the fact that it copes with the string angles converging towards the nut so well. I may get a local engineering firm to knock me up some new barrels in a different material. The current ones are hollow steel, but I'm tempted to try aluminium, titanium, brass etc. Another recommendation for this design; If you sweat as much as I can do, remove the barrels and apply some Vaseline to the threads. It stops the steel barrels seizing in the Aluminium alloy body...

[quote name='Muppet' post='223446' date='Jun 21 2008, 10:01 AM']I use a piece of fine wet and dry paper. A great tip for preventing this happening again is to dab the pole pieces with a drop of clear nail varnish. It has no detrimental effect on the pickups and stops them rusting[/quote] +1 for clear nail varnish. Or Black for that [i]Stealth[/i] look! I used Brasso on a cotton bud. It's quite precise and forgiving on plastic...

Sorry, my bad. Not thinking again!

The main issue with putting pick-ups up by the neck is polepiece/string alignment. The DM Model one was replaced by the DM Willpower in the Yamaha Attitudes. It has broader polepiece spacing to overcome the "Fender" spacing problem , and is differently wound to sound "fatter" (like it needed to!) Of course, you can get around this by using a pick-up with blades for polepieces. I think the Bartolini MM Humbuckers are like this beneath the covers. Alternatively, the MEC "TwinJazz" used in the Warwick Dolphin, Infinity, Vampyre (etc.) is so constructed. Eitther of these can be tapped or switched for series/parallel, which the Model 1 can't.

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' post='216585' date='Jun 11 2008, 08:25 AM']I am not sure that I agree with everything you have said here. The down side of using headphones can be that the equipment you connect them to may have been designed to maximise battery life, and not to maximise the ability to drive good headphones. For example, I can hear a difference in the quality of bass between my personal CD player, and the same unit connected via a headphone amplifier. However, if you are using a mains powered mixer to feed the headphones, this may not apply.[/quote] That's quite true, and I [i]do[/i] use a mains-powered mixer!!

Sounds like Elites Stadiums (stainless) to me... Readily obtainable, relatively cheap, and quite well liked. A reasonable middle-of-the-road string to most peoples way of thinking.

[quote name='Dr.Dave' post='215457' date='Jun 9 2008, 02:22 PM']So what is it about this ray in partic. that makes you like it as opposed to the others you didn't?[/quote] Good question! I've never found them to be that variable... Although I'm willing to concede that I have a preference for 2-Band EQ models with Maple fretboards!!

In the words of Mr. Punch; "[i]That's the way to do it[/i]" They're both lovely. Especially the P, but I'm all Jazzed up, so I'm biased!

[quote name='ped' post='215142' date='Jun 8 2008, 10:30 PM']I pretty much always play tuned flat, I like the more pliable tension and hey, it is a bit deeper... I also use a capo like you were thinking Paul, you can get bass specific ones but the normal Jim Dunlop one fits my bass very snugly. ped[/quote] Ah! So [i]that's[/i] why your S2 felt so "supple" at the bash! I'd attributed it to the lighter gauge strings and graphite neck! It strikes me that Warwicks, love them or hate them, feel "softer" for a given gauge than most basses. I reckon that's down to the extremely shallow break angle at both ends. The said angle is primarily achieved from the use of the 2 piece bridge, which extends the ball-end to saddle distance (compared to a 1-piece bridge) and the slanted headstock. Isn't 13 degrees the magic number? Just about holds the strings in the nut slots/saddles, but keeps the tension down... Assuming that you find relatively low tension a desirable trait!

Vigier are French. For the UK, add in; Sei Shuker Iceni / Zoot RIM Overwater GB (although they're all a bit more custon oreinted!)

Good Thread! [thinks]...[/thinks] I'd agree that tuners are tuners as long as they hold the string at the desired pitch without slipping. The only other attribute one might wish for is light weight to counteract neck dive. Wiring (internal) seems much of a muchness. There's not that much of it that it would make much difference anyway. Important bits; [b]Strings!!![/b] These are the bits with which we interact most. Consider the way in which string gauge and type influences tone, and that confirms why they're on this list... [b]Pick-ups[/b] Generate the (small) signals the amp gets to make louder versions of. Their type, construction and positioning all contribute to the instrument's sound. [b]EQ/Electrics (as applicable)[/b] Rubbish Electrics will sound dull and possibly be noise-prone. Poor EQs will sound lifeless and boost/cut the wrong frequencies. They should be emphasizing the positive aspects of the bass, not trying to create what isn't there. [b]Bridge[/b] Naff bridge, poor sustain, poor stability of tuning and potentially causing intonation issues. Its mass and how well it's coupled to the bass affect the way the strings and body interact. [b]Nut[/b] Certainly affects the sound of open strings if nothing else. Brass, Tusq, Bone, Nylon or Graphlon are common choices. [b]Neck/Fretboard[/b] The rigidity of neck and fretboard will help to shape the sound of the bass, and this is, in part governed by the choice of materials used- hence all those Graphite necks available for Precisions, Jazzes and 'Rays to name but a few. I suppose a good rule of thumb is this; [i]If someone makes an item as a retro fit add-on or upgrade to a bass, it probably makes some sort of difference to the tone[/i]

That, sir, is lush! Looks like the offspring of my two!

[quote name='bnt' post='215622' date='Jun 9 2008, 06:52 PM']I'm currently looking for some Nikki Sixx / BC Rich stories... there must be a few? [/quote] The only one I know of regarding Nikki Sixx was one involving a fight between him and a brick wall. No, really! He was away with the faeries (again) and punched a wall, presumably with his right hand. Had loads of steel pins put in it to hold the mess together. No more fingerstyle for you, Nikki! That's not quite the kind of [i]gear abuse [/i]we were looking for, though, is it?

[quote name='Hit&Run' post='215571' date='Jun 9 2008, 05:49 PM']Levin?[/quote] Yeah. The custom 3-string bit kind of gives it away. I wish I could find the photo of him standing next to the burnt-out carcasses of his Trace SMX head, 1153 and 2103 Cabinets. Only an endorsee could look so relaxed about such carnage! That said, he does genuinely regret the loss of a lot of special gear in the fire. And he didn't start it himself, so it's not like he set out to wreck it all.