Lfalex v1.1

As AC says, probably not worth it. The T/S parameters he refers to are Thiele/Small parameters, and these describe just about every physical and electrical detail of the driver in question. These can then be used to calculate optimum enclosure dimensions to give the desired sonic performance (see also Hoffman's Iron Law) using either good, old-fashioned equations or a PC based application such as Win ISD. Unfortunately, far too many driver manufacturers are a more than a little coy about releasing some of these details, which makes simply replacing drivers with other ones that fit the holes in a cabinet baffle something of a lottery at best! As an aside, The older 2103(and H) [i]definitely[/i] had 16ohm drivers in, wired in parallel to give a cabinet load of around 8ohms. I (ahem) cut the amp stage out of my H122SMX and fashioned a (slimmer) 2103h of sorts and a separate head, primarily for convenience. That also has 16ohm drivers in. I own a 1048h from the same era, but I don't know if that's 4x32ohm drivers in parallel or something else entirely!

[i]In order (as best I can recall it!)[/i] [b]1984/85 Westone Raider 1[/b] - In a cupboard awaiting new "P" pick-up and new pots... [b]Columbus Series 1 Fretless Jazz copy [/b]- Now broken for spares [b]1996 Vigier Passion S3 Standard V[/b] [b]1997 Warwick Streamer LX VI[/b] - Wenge Neck... [b]Ovation Celebrity Electro-acoustic Hohner B2A V [/b]- Headless Steinberger replica in Natural wood. Now sporting only E,A and D strings on alternate saddles! [b]1990 Musicman Stingray Fretless V[/b] Now tuned EADGC. [b]A strange, cobbled together EUB[/b] - The majority of it is an Arco. Shape is reminiscent of a Warwick Triumph. HUGE humbucker, it's the size of my fist! [b]Ibanez SRX700[/b] [b]Yamaha Attitude 10th Anniversary[/b] - 1 of 150 Purple ones. The other half of the run were black. [b]2004 Fender MIA S1 Jazz [/b] - Ash body. Translucent Sunset Orange finish (So Red, then.) [b]2002 Warwick Infinity [/b]- Bargain from new! Probably wouldn't have bought it otherwise. [b]2007 Squier 70's VMJ [/b]- Modded with a BadAss II and nice black Schaller controls. [b]Ibanez EDB600[/b] - A Luthite one. Cracked the body when I dropped it. A wooden bass would have bounced. Broken for spares. [b]Early OLP MM3 [/b]- Won in the raffle at the Northants bash!

[quote name='ste_m3' post='259294' date='Aug 10 2008, 02:08 PM']Trade for a bacchus Jazz with a J retro...? [/quote] Not today, thankyou! [quote name='Gwilym' post='259308' date='Aug 10 2008, 02:28 PM']they're nice looking instruments, but IMHO, spoiled by the fact that they have "Vigier" written in large letters on the body. There's a few other manufacturers that do the same (Zoot and Sandbergs (4 dot logo, a bit more subtle perhaps) spring to mind), and it totally turns me off from an aesthetic point of view. What do you owners think?[/quote] Given that I own a Zoot as well, I guess it doesn't bother me! Some of my basses have far worse aesthetic failings, and I've forgiven/ignored those because of their tone or playability.

[quote name='ped' post='258728' date='Aug 9 2008, 10:58 AM']Do you want Alex and Luke to show you theirs ;0)[/quote] Oh, alright then!

Nice to see it's still got the original pick-ups & electrics in it. (Ducks) The only way the Passion could be "improved" is a variable cut/boost on the EQ. I know how to do it. Patrice seems to positively encourage modifications, and mailed me straight back. Only thing is, I don't want to drill any holes in it!

All my walls are brick... However, my parents live in France, and few of their walls are anything but plasterboard. There are appropriate fixings available (as others have said). The French have expanding metal ones with a central threaded insert that take bolts rather than screws. The fixing expands behind the wall (more than a normal rawlplug) to spread the load. They look like they'd hold a bass. If you check the packaging of the fixings, they may give details of any weight limits that they may hold... If you're paranoid about falling basses, put some pillows and an airbed beneath it for a couple of days until your paranoia subsides... I've done it with my stupidly heavy Streamer LX VI!

[quote name='Viajero' post='256507' date='Aug 6 2008, 05:26 PM']That's what I was thinking, but I can't locate one so far. You seem to get an octave and a half on the Stylo, but I fear it will be useless for hearing harmony. I should dress in a 70s way, certainly. Perhaps I'll end up sitting next to an 80s guy with a huge ghetto blaster, and an alarm clock round his neck.[/quote] If it's going on public transport, I can heartily recommend a battery-powered Theremin...

The EQ [i]may[/i] be contributing to the seemingly weak G,D and A string outputs if you've knocked off loads of the Treble, dialled out a lot of the mids, and boosted the bottom end. Normally, I'd have said to try adjusting the pick-ups, but you've stated that the bass sounds fine when played outside a band context, so I guess it's more of a case of the bass failing to cut through the rest of the band in the mid and treble frequency ranges... If you're finding that it plays well, and has made the 4 to 5 string transition bearable for you, I really wouldn't sell or exchange it, at least until you've had a tinker with the EQ. Perhaps when you next rehearse with the rest of the band, try setting everything on the amp and bass to flat, EQ-wise. See if you can dial in a completely different tone that you like and that you can hear in a band context... Edit- I read your signature! I own an SRX700, too. One of my guitarist mates bought one too (without my knowledge!) We both tried the 705, and found it had lost something in the transition to a 5 string... I'd reckon the K5 would be fine. If you really, really can't get what you want from it, but still love the Ibanez approach, there's always the good old SR500! Excellent value and tons of good tones to be had from it.

I have a Duncan MMHB in one of my basses (A Zoot) it has exposed polepieces, but the G and E poles are flush with the housing, and the D and A only protrude by about 1mm. That said, I don't suffer with my stock SR5, and they stick out miles!

I've never taken drugs (of the illicit narcotic variety... Sure, caffiene and alcohol get a look in...), and never understood the appeal particularly. That is until I played a simply awesome gig one night in London and drove home alone. It's at times like those that you are susceptible to a really bad post-gig come-down, and there's nothing to offset it. I can see why "rock stars" might need something to fill that kind of emptiness, especially during a lengthy tour. I've never had it run on into the following day, only the fatigue if I had to work. (I'm not in a band at the mo' as my schedules at work preclude it)

[quote name='solo4652' post='255087' date='Aug 5 2008, 09:32 AM']Hi - I bought a new Hardpuncher just like yours for £300 last week. Great neck, and full, mellow sound. I was struggling a bit with my right hand positioning, so I put on a thumrest. Looking at your photos, I'm completely confused, because I've installed my thumbrest on the other side of (ie above ) the strings! Try as I might, I'm struggling to see why yours appears to be underneath the strings. I've probably missed something completely obvious here, but please will you help me to be less confused!? Steve[/quote] Ah! You did get it, then! I hope you like it! The thumbrest below the strings is a vaguely "retro" affectation upon which one rests their index/middle fingers and plucks the strings with a slightly hooked thumb. Fine if you play like this, but few do these days! Equally fine for the retro vibe! Fender moved the bar to above the strings, at which point it became a thumbrest between pickups and back edge of the the neck. This is an equally legitimate position for it, and it's arguably more appropriate to the majority of players! You haven't missed anything!!

Whilst I haven't played a K5, I have owned an Ergodyne EDB600 (with fixed mid freq 3 band eq), and played a BTB with a vari-mid 3 band EQ. I managed to wring some excellent sounds from the Ergodyne before I accidentally broke the body, and that was with a fixed Frequency mid. The BTB only improved on the experience for me. In no time at all, I managed to dial in a tone which I liked, and had people in the shop commenting positively on the sound (rather than the playing!?) To set variable mids (for me, and I like the bass to "sing" in the upper-mid registers) ,I centre all the controls (vol at max-ish), and crank the mid level right up, and work gently thorugh the frequency range from bottom to top. I then adjust the mid-level down to taste and tinker with the bass and treble to suit my taste. I then use the pick-up pan to voice the bass to suit me (often 60/40 bridge/neck) and away I go. Amp stays FLAT and with all gubbins like copressors, pre-shapes etc. OFF, so I can hear what the bass is doing without too much contribution from the amp. I reckon the K5 is oft overlooked because of its "metal" image. Given that the vari-mid eq isn't just tailored to give a massive mid-cut like Fieldy's, it should prove fine. The K5 has a nice body wood, and if Ibanez have stuck to their normal neck profile, it should prove eminently playable. My only concerns? Weight (not often an Ibanez issue!) Mid-voicing of the EQ. As ever... Try before you buy. If you can!

Ultimately, it pays to look at the whole picture; You've purchased an instrument for what you felt was a reasonable price. You find said instrument perfectly satisfactory (save for the serial # ambiguity) If it plays well, sounds good and continues to do both, then it is a good 'un. It's just a pity that we all get caught up in the brand paranoia thing. FWIW, I own a 2004 MIA Jazz! Welcome to the forum. Stick around if you like it . It's a good place!

Ha ha! Love the Magnus Single-cut (with handle) More of a Neck-on-Bolt than a bolt-on neck...

[quote name='neepheid' post='252442' date='Jul 31 2008, 11:48 PM']Pristine or p*** off. Or serious money off. I equate basses with cars.[/quote] Plus the one. Suffice it to say that I don't wear Jeans with rivets in or shirts with buttons when I play... I don't like belts anyway, so I don't wear them. Yes, the basses have some knocks, but they're strictly accidental. To use a car analogy, why abuse a nice one. Keep a "beater" for beating. I have, however (to my shame) destroyed a bass. An Ibanez Ergodyne EDB600 (Luthite) I dropped it. It cracked irreparably. I finished it off in a fit of pique.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='251770' date='Jul 31 2008, 12:06 AM']You is correct. The NT have 26 and as has been mentioned the NT Dolphin Pro I also has 26... though who the fook uses more than 12 is beyond me [/quote] Me Infinity SN4 has 26 also...

Yep. Ibanez= goodness. Esp. This one. Okay, it's not an ATK... it's a (discontinued) SRX700. The comment still stands. The only thing that might match this (other than an ATK!) would be a Stingray or a G&L. At twice the price. And neither of those are neck through or 24 fret.

I've an ME-8B. [Messerschmidt related aviation joke] I prefer the ME-109, or better still a Focke-Wulf 190... [/Messerschmidt related aviation joke] I'm not an FX kind of guy, though. I can never get the thing to behave with regard to variation in input level upsetting it (on dynamics sensitive effects) The principal culprit being the synth bit. The chorus sounds [i]okay[/i] The Tap delay is excellent. So is the way you can regulate the flanger with the tap function. The tuner's good (small but accurate) The overdrive's based on the odb3 and the distortions on the turbo guitar models, so that'd probably divide opinion to say the least! The Fuzz is right harsh, but in a good way... The EQ is semi-parametric, and way better than the 7-band pedal. Nice colour scheme. Wasps, Hornets and Hover-flies keep trying to mate with it... Edit - without the EXP pedal to tone it down, the ring mod is well OTT. Not that I'm a great fan...

[i]Rumour[/i] has it that Warwick changed from the recessed Dunlop-compatible design to the exposed Schaller type due to instances of natural (ie requiring wax) finished basses shrinking due to moisture loss caused by infrequent (or non-existent) waxing. The shrinkage caused cracks around the metal inserts, as these (obviously) don't shrink! Another interpretation would be that Schaller straplocks are more widespread, and that compatible buttons are a lot cheaper to fit than the recessed ones...

An alternative; Warwick Yellow labels are reasonbly priced and sound /feel good.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='248261' date='Jul 26 2008, 07:37 AM']In theory, if someone was prepared to go to the place where the instruments were stored and collect, it could work. Similar thing already operates with super car clubs. You pay an annual subscription fee plus a booking fee and agree to get the car back in the same condition as it left. However there's no accounting for the recklessness of some people.[/quote] Would gigging be the car club's equivalent of a day at the stock car races?

I saw that one the other day! I have one that I don't use at all. I've even got the exp pedal and two footswitches for it, plus the box and manual! Might put it up for sale having seen this.

I own a Trace AH300SMX, 2103H, 1153 & 1048H... Really DON'T spend ANY money on your cabinet. It's a DIY job! It's all big, chunky engineering in there, and if it's all currently working okay, there's nothing that you'd need to do to it other than check that there are no damaged components in the horn crossover and ensuring that all the drivers are still connected properly. Simply pull off the port trim rings, unscrew the grille screws, remove the grille and rubber mounts. You can now remove a driver from the front baffle and just have a Hoover out in there. I usually clean inside the bottom edge of the front face of the cabinet. It's where all the dust and gunk falls... The only point to be aware of is to take care not to damage or tear the cones or surrounds of the drivers. The drivers aren't usually soldered to the cables, just tagged & crimped, so they're easy to remove completely should you so desire. Prepare to be surprised at how naff the internal cables are! As for the AH300SM, it's as others have said. Unscrew the 4 bolts under the plastic plugs in the top of the carcass, withdraw the bolts/washers, and the amp will slide out of its box. The 300SM's not got a valve in the input stage, has it? If it does, they can go from time to time, but are a doddle to source/replace. It's only a 12ax7 / EC833. The biggest flaw in the design that I know of is due to the fact that the amps are modular inside (as you will see) Basically, there's a Transformer / power supply for the other boards, a pre-amp board, a Power amp module, a board for the various rear sockets, plus one at the front that carries the EQ sliders, compressor and other controls (plus the green illumination). The weak point seems to be in the cabling between the pre and power stages. Again, they're only spade connectors, and these can work loose over time. Just make sure they're all snug! Otherwise, Hoover it out, look for loose cables, burst/ bulging caps, dry joints and any signs of scorching on the circuit boards. Clean the fan and vent slots. Contact cleaner is good for the EQ sliders, pots and switches. If you do use this, give it plenty of time to dry out before you fire it up again or it may short out! Never work on the internals with the unit connected to the mains! Sorry for the Essay! Hope this helps!

Both of these cost less than your budget... New. Ibanez SRX700 Yamaha Attitude 10th Anniversary BS signature So... +1 to Ibanez or Yamaha basses. But do check out used Musicmen and Warwicks. There's some good value to be had.

£10 seems entirely reasonable to me. The manager has to compensate the Homeless guy he's just evicted somehow.... (Gets greasy Mackintosh. Leaves)