Lfalex v1.1

Hi Paul. Just measured them up. Exactly the same length as the originals, ball-end to ball-end. Gauges are heavier on the new set (don't start me on restricted choice of gauges/sets) If you made me guess, I'd say the originals were 40,60,80,100,125. The new strings are 45,65,85,100,130. The issue is that the A string won't come up above F#... 3 semitones short. The D string is far worse. It makes F, 9 semitones short. Does a notional .005" increase in gauge really cause that much difference?

Just tried to restring my Hohner B2a V. B, E and G have made it to pitch. A string won't make it beyond F# D string is worse. Reason? No more rearward travel in the tuners. Anyone else encountered this? I have no idea what the strings are that I removed. New ones are Elites 45-130. Any fixes out there or have I just wasted £37? NB- this bass has no clamping provision at the headstock. It's DBE or nothing.

To clarify; A,D,G,C. Right? I had a Stingray 5 fretless (why, oh why did I sell it?) tuned E-C. That was great. Never had tried stringing a bass as a piccolo, though. Does one simply use strings of approximately ½ the gauge you'd usually use- something like 50,40,30,20 ?

I wish! All I can see in the marketplace ina pedal format is Broughton's offering, and that's mighty expensive.

I was questioning what the idea was in having such a low roll-off point (25Hz), unless it were in a studio application, to clean up the entire low end below the point of the A0 fundamental. And here (I think) is the point. For all that amps may be bandwidth limited by design, and cabinets by design and physics, bass guitars aren't bandwidth limited, and can certainly generate a signal of as low a frequency as you'd care to detune to. So it feels like the Thumpinator almost ought to go at the beginning of the signal chain; to clean up all the infrasonic gubbins before it reaches your FX and amp.

Had a look at images of them... That's a lot of pickups! Interesting. Probably the only bass I might ever want a pickup selector switch added to! Even then, I'm not sure what combinations of pickups I'd wire it to select! P & H J & H J,P & H And in the frst two positions use the volume control to kill whatever pickup I didn't want ( giving J,P & H separately) Not sure that J solo'ed would be a thing, nor J & P, but without trying it, I couldn't say for sure.

That's more like it at that sort of price.

Nice idea and execution. I like the idea of concealed controls, but they don't make for easy on-the-fly adjustments. Whilst searching for the price, I happened on the options, which were not as plentiful as you'd like for what is ostensibly a custom at such a high price. I'd be wanting an Ebony board, and 4 or 6 string options. Didn't see a fretless option, either.

Mustang Sadly

That Metallica classic. Master of Muppets

They did it again in "Burning Heart" "Rising like a spider"... Oh. Spire...

Definitely a good 'un. Dialled in the sound I wanted almost straight away. I've got it running as a multi-flavoured OD/distortion pedal in front of the Ampeg or via a Nux Mighty Plug, and it's all good. I've got it set up so; Channel A: Bass and Treble wound back for a flatter response. Enough gain to make it break up when I dig in. Channel B: Bass up a smidge, treble down and upper mids advanced a bit. Gives quite an old- school tone with a little grit. Cold fusion is oddly uninspiring with A&B set up as above. Hot fusion defied my expectations and delivers a vintage distortion with a solid underlying tone. I've got it all set to unity gain, so bypass, A,B and Fusion are all the same in terms of output level. It's extremely responsive to playing dynamics, and I think I detect a little natural compression being introduced. A second opinion said that it sounded thicker and fatter but still had plenty of attack and definition. Nothing's perfect, though. I'd still like a tuner out, maybe a "fusion" switch, and a mute button would be a good addition. Also, as it's zero gain in bypass mode, you'd probably not be able to use it to drive a power amp- in spite of the manual depicting otherwise. I'm bemused that the overall result is still good with the signal passing through so many EQ stages; Bass guitar internal pre. Le Bass preamp. Ampeg SVP-PRO (with the graphic "on") Markbass CS450 head- even with the Ampeg wired into the FX return, it leaves the head's EQ still in circuit, only the gain stage is bypassed.

The plastic ones came with Elixirs from new. I've stuck with them. Expensive, but they do last. 40-100 Nickels on this one, methinks...

Cleaning up nicely. That was a good score.

I forgot about the newer wooden ones! I still half- fancied one of these, too! What Lurgy does it have? (I need an EDC 705 (ideally) to complete my set.)

Oh. And I forgot the smell after they've been in a case for a while... 😄

Is it an EDB 600 or an EDC 700? Either way, lovely things (Well, I like them) The EDB is almost normal compared to the EDA and EDC. A word of warning- Don't drop it or allow it to fall any distance, those Luthite bodies are quite brittle. I lost an EDB600 when it slid off the sofa.

That seems reasonable. But if you select to use just one of the resultant 1x10s, it'll take your (hypothetical) 300W @ 4 Ohms head and cut it to ~75W. Using a second of the 1x10s would at least give you an 8 Ohm load and ~150W

I... uh .... May have contributed to it?

In answer to the original question; Yes. I believe there IS a "stacked-knob" thread buried somewhere in BC. Just don't ask me how I know

Are the drivers all identical? They may not be. And how are they wired to achieve a workable impedance for the amp section? (I presume it's a minimum of 4 Ohms, but you never know) These factors may conspire to preclude the use of 3x1x10..

Just about to acquire one (Very late to the party, I know!) Can it match the Ampeg SVP Pro for tone, though? We'll see. It's not a perfect fit for me (don't want or need the MIDI or cab sim) No aux in, and I'd prefer a ¼" headphone out. On the plus side, it's switchable. And the Ampeg isn't. Can't see Hot Fusion being much use to me, but bypass, A,B and Cold Fusion ought to be enough...

Without wishing to cloud the issue, it IS possible to run a big amp into a cabinet with a lower power rating IF YOU ARE CAREFUL. I've used a QSC PLX 1202 bridged into a Trace Elliot 2103H. That's ~600w @ 8 Ohms into an 8 Ohm cabinet that's good for ~160w. In fairness, I had the QSC's HPF on, and only "kept up" with the rest of the band, but it worked fine.