Musky

A slightly different twist on the same theme. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/201662-decal-or-no Plenty of opinions to keep you going in there!

High Qts and low EBP suggests it's suitable for a sealed cab.

[quote name='itsmedunc' timestamp='1368958850' post='2083334'] [size=4]Hi, I was going to bid on that myself but missed it. I asked about postage and she said £24 by courier. I thought it might make a decent spare. I have some CIJ pickups and a couple of P scratchplates so it looked like I was onto a winner but then I forgot! Apart from missing that I also missed a Westone Thunder 3 on ebay that went buy it now for £235... Gutted.[/size] [/quote] I wouldn't be surprised if a few others forgot as well - a midnight end time probably wasn't a good idea! I don't think the covers were originally on there so the previous owner had obviously done some fettling, but even if it wasn't actually an MIJ bass it was likely worth the money it went for. Edit: I noticed yesterdy that there have been some stupid Matsumoku made bargains recently - sub £100 Arias! [quote name='cloudburst' timestamp='1368959232' post='2083340'] I had to laugh when I realised that the 'nob on the front' she thought was missing, was actually the jack socket. :-) :-) CB [/quote] That made me chuckle as well.

[quote name='LITTLEWING' timestamp='1368955929' post='2083289'] 'Scuse my higorance here, but all this pish about good and bad tuners, how can a tuner gear (unless it's really a ten pence far East item) actually let a string go out of tune? A string needs retuning because you've just stretched the tits out of it with a bit of enthusiastic playing for a while, surely. My Squier VM Jazz has had no tuning issues in a year and a half. In fact, each time I take it out of it's case it's exactly the same as I left it, as does my Yammy BBN5. If I'm seriously missing something here, I'll sit and humbly take it all on board and happily digest new found knowledge. [/quote] That's my experience as well. Except for the really cheap and nasty stuff, everything I've ever used has held it's tuning well. As in play a gig, turn up to a rehearsal the following week and it's still in tune. As long as the tuners don't get moved when they're living in a gig bag and there's no big temperature changes they scarcely get touched. The main difference is how smooth the tuners feel and their tuning ratios (and the two points may not be unrelated).

I was going to take a punt on this last night, but forgot all about it. Had a weird clear scratchplate installed, but apparently MIJ so it was possibly a good buy for someone. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Guitar-/281108332036

Not a clear picture, but to me that doesn't look like an amp sitting on top of the cabs. It's only a 3u case with at least a 1u module sitting in the middle. Can't actually see if there's anything in the other spaces. So that might suggest it's either a preamp or effects unit in there. The amp itself is most likely sitting behind the cabs.

£114 in the end. Probably a little on the cheap side, but not in the unbelievable category.

They've been selling these for quite a while, so maybe there is something in the idea that they're not afraid to go toe to toe with JH. It looks to be identical to (the now possibly defunct) brands Jayro/Anniversary.

Big heatsink, no impedance selector. It's solid state.

I've got to admit my previous post was based on a clear difference in sound when using decent speaker cables, and I just extrapolated to instrument cables from there. It's been a while since I've used cheap leads so I've never A/B'd them, but there's most definitely a difference in longevity of the cables.

Length always makes a difference! I thought I'd get that one in before anyone else does... Cables do make a difference to your sound, but how much of a difference will depend on the quality of your cables to start with and your tonal preferences. The real difference in using decent cables is their longevity though. I've always used the shortest cables I can get away with, so I have a few different length ones - no point in having a 30ft cable lying around getting stamped all over when you can't move further than 3ft from your amp on a tiny stage.

[quote name='WalMan' timestamp='1368051897' post='2072695'] +20% for VAT if it's total price is over £18[/quote] They charge VAT on anything over £15 now. It's was bad enough that the £18 limit hadn't increased since at least the nineties, without them actually reducing it.

Just plug your details into [url="http://www.dutycalculator.com/online-customs-tools/"]this[/url]. It's not painful, I promise.

[quote name='douggie' timestamp='1367960187' post='2071733'] yes, i absolutely did. They had a great 12 string Ricky and a Silvertone I wanted, so I just dumped a load of freebies that I never played in exchange... [/quote] Thanks for taking the time to answer Guy. I might have been tempted by that Silvertone if I'd been in there a bit earlier...

At first glance I thought it was a Fuji Gen (the company that made Ibanez, Antoria and others) as well. But it has a lot of details I've never seen on a Fuji Gen bass. The 6 bolt neck for a start. Moridaira made a lot of instruments with 6 bolt necks, so that's a possibility. And Kay made the KB-24 with a 6 bolt and stripwood neck, but they were made in Taiwan and didn't have the Maxon pickup. So I don't really have a clue.

[quote name='KK Jale' timestamp='1367897391' post='2070746'] I realise this may come as tragic news, but The Entire Population Of China has been done... [/quote] ...as has Plus Support. Free Beer has been done too, in case anyone was considering that.

[quote name='douggie' timestamp='1367908839' post='2070768'] Was it the audio video exchange on Notting Hill gate? [/quote] Yes, it was.

[quote name='douggie' timestamp='1367875321' post='2070610'] I don't know..I can't recall the Matrix..Description or pic please.. [/quote] Hmmm... The only photo I have of it is this rather dodgy effort. The shop had a rather strange looking Washburn which (like the Status) they claimed was a prototype originating from yourself. They also had a Precision which was openly advertised as 'ex Pink Floyd' in the record store a few doors down. Thinking about it the Washburn might have been an 8 string, but I wasn't paying that much attention as it wasn't my sort of thing. It's just that it didn't strike me as being the sort of bass you'd play either, which is why I've always been slightly sceptical about their claims. Still, if you off loaded a bunch of basses to a shop in the mid nineties...

Fair play to you. Very well handled I think. Apparently I've got an old Status Matrix of yours - did that ever get used on any recordings?

[quote name='cloudburst' timestamp='1367824939' post='2069723'] +1 on the Fender Jazz suggestion. I just measured my 1974 Jazz and it is 38mm at the nut and 61mm at the 16th fret. A couple of other suggestions. Some manufacturers produce narrow neck versions of their instruments. An example is MusicMan whose SLO Special version of the StingRay has a narrower neck more like their Sterling. Some fretboards taper less in width as you move up the neck. An example of this is the original one piece graphite Steinberger XL-2 if you can find one. I will measure mine for you when I get back to Scotland. (And I noticed one of these for sale last night for a ridiculously low price). Final point: what on earth are you doing up around the 16th fret after only 3 months? Step back into line or you'll be putting the rest of us to shame! :-) CB [/quote] A very good point about the taper on the neck. I just measured my Egmond B2V and it's 40mm at the nut but only 51mm at the 16th fret!

[quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1367760895' post='2069124'] British Nu-Blues with a hint of RL Burnside.[/quote] Although I don't actually know what Nu-Blues is, I believe we're thinking along the same lines.

Continuous is what you should be looking at - Program is used to indicate it's peak rating.

For a single speaker it makes no difference. You only have to watch the polarity when you're wiring up multiples.

What JTUK says. It's not so much the wattage you have to look out for, but the excursion of the speaker - which manufacturers seldom disclose. A higher rated cab should have more leeway than a lower rated comparable speaker. It's just finding out whether the speakers are actually comparable. The wattage rating on the cabs tells you how much power they'll take before the voice coil is at risk but the cones themselves can be damaged at a much lower wattage, particularly if you like cranking the bass control up. The way to avoid damage is to use your ears, but that can be difficult if you like a distorted sound anyway.

Are you saying you got your mojo working?