Musky

[quote name='dlloyd' post='470619' date='Apr 23 2009, 12:43 PM']It's also available for PC[/quote] So it is. Lots of slow goodness for PC users.

If you select the track, click effects > equalisation. You then get a flat eq line that you can add points to and manipulate to your hearts content. The bad thing is you only get a short preview to hear what it sounds like. There are other filters available as well. Personally I use the Amazing Slow Downer for this. It's mac only, but the simple 5 band eq does quite a decent job. Best Practice is often recommended for PC's, but I don't know whether that comes with an EQ.

Audacity will work with mp3s. I've not come across any other way of isolating the bass other than using EQ, but if anybody knows of one I'd like to hear about it as well.

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='470342' date='Apr 23 2009, 04:33 AM']so is there a product I can apply to the bass, which the sticker will stick to, but will not harm the finish?[/quote] In my experience, Gaffa tape will be okay. Now as we all know Gaffa will leave a sticky residue, but I've found it easy enough to remove (with tiny amounts of paint thinner in my case). How do I know this? In 1984 I bought what turned out to be a '68 4001S in fireglo - only I didn't like fireglo, so I covered the whole thing head to foot with small strips of gaffa. This remained on until about 6 months ago, and has cleaned up without any kind of mark or blemish. Fairly easily as well.

Beats flogging a piece of toast with the face of Christ I suppose.

[quote name='maxrossell' post='469626' date='Apr 22 2009, 02:28 PM']Check it, it's an old Satellite. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Satellite-169J-3-4-scale-vintage70s-plush-lined-case_W0QQitemZ190302745670QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item190302745670&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Satellite-169J-3-4-s...A1%7C240%3A1318[/url][/quote] It looks nice, but Satellites didn't even make good firewood.

Does it have the bridge and pickup covers with it? If they're missing the holes should be evident. Their presence doesn't guarantee that it's a Fender body of course, but their absence would indicate that it isn't the original one. The thumb rests were often removed, but the screws might have been replaced - the holes for the thumbrest were in line with the edge of the pickguard but there would be two about 2" apart. And I would be more surprised if it was £450 than I would if it was £1450.

I can't say I've heard of Deville, but the painted in forearm contour might suggest that it's made of plywood. With a broken nut I can't see it being worth £60.

[quote name='larrikin' post='467330' date='Apr 20 2009, 11:42 AM']What will raising the pickups do?[/quote] At the risk of stating the obvious, it will narrow the distance between the strings and the pickups! Benefits will be increased volume, which may add a bit of grunt to your sound. There's an optimal height for the strings/pickups, so you don't want to take it too low. If the strings are too high from fingerboard as well, you're best off starting with your original idea and lowering the saddle height.

If the action is ok as it stands you should raise the height of the pickups (assuming you've got enough adjustment in there).

[quote name='pete.young' post='466814' date='Apr 19 2009, 04:59 PM']OutToPlayJazz and acidbass are right, it's second-hand only from Ishibashi - look in the u_box . Fareastguitars sometimes has them in but don't have a lot of stock at the moment. Not sure whether Guitar Emporium can still get them. The best quality instruments are the Not-for-export models with US pickups and ash or alder bodies.[/quote] It seems like Guitar Emporium is importing again now - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=46985"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=46985[/url]

I just took a look at the first link, and that info has been lifted from the provide.net pages on Fenders. [url="http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html"]http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html[/url] If you click the link about precision decals you'll get that same picture (originally from one Jim Shine apparently). It doesn't match up with the actual text on the site, which says - "Stratocaster: thin "spaghetti" logo from 1954 to fall 1964. Larger gold "transition" logo from fall 1964 till 1967. Thick "black" logo from 1968 to 1980" and "Pbass, Jazzmaster: followed same trend as the Stratocaster". I'd go with the text, as it also matches what Duchossoir has to say about the matter in his book on the Strat.

I don't do gurning when I'm playing, but I have a horrible feeling I might win this if I were to submit a pic.

It's entirely possible you have got something in there. I had a similar kind of pain in the tip of my ring finger which was caused by an absolutely tiny sliver of glass (I used to work in a pub and would sometimes pick up small shards of glass, so I was fairly certain from the off that this was the cause). It was totally invisible even with a magnifying glass, and only showed up as a glint when I cut away the skin and stuck my finger under a microscope. Though of course it might be better going to the doctor than taking my DIY approach,

[quote name='jmstone' post='464777' date='Apr 17 2009, 10:41 AM']I read somewhere that some older guitars need you to hold the neck into the new position before adjusting the rod, whereas more modern guitars you can just tweak the rod, and the neck follows. Not sure if this is true or not.. James[/quote] That's certainly the case with Rickenbackers, but I don't know of any others where you have to do that. Doubtless there are some though.

Listening to some of the live stuff on you tube, it sounds like quite a middley sort of sound - still a decent amount of bottom end without much at the top. In fact quite a classic flatwound tone. You shouldn't underestimate how much of someones tone lies in their fingers.

Not really the answer you're looking for, but you might like to check out one of the Danelectro basses like the '63 or older DC's. I saw someone using one on Saturday and I reckon it would nail the sound you're after - it sounded amazing when he kicked in a fuzz as well. Oh, and that Ground Control is a sophisticated switching unit - it allows you to switch between patches on midi gear, and switch in and out multiple pedals. With 3 pedals and no midi gear you don't need one.

[quote name='larrikin' post='463014' date='Apr 15 2009, 02:16 PM']Thanks! what about a Voodoo Lab Ground Control, would this work? i'm not entirely sure what the Voodoo pedal even does... but someone told me it might help?[/quote] Me neither, so I googled it. It's switching unit! [url="http://www.voodoolab.com/gcontrolpro.htm"]http://www.voodoolab.com/gcontrolpro.htm[/url] I would have thought if you want a distorted baritone guitar type sound you can roll off the bass below about 100Hz and use a distortion pedal that suits (which could be almost anything really - everyone has their own favourite).

[quote name='LWTAIT' post='462586' date='Apr 14 2009, 10:57 PM']made in 2008 and took him over a year to get? he's only had that a couple of months tops, then, if thats true. wonder why he's selling it.[/quote] [quote]WAS GOING TO BE IN ZEP TRIB BAND BUT FOUND OUT I WASNT GOOD ENOUGH[/quote]

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='460745' date='Apr 12 2009, 08:03 PM']They both work for me, but that may be because the tinypic account is my own. Does either link work for you? Or are both no good?[/quote] They're both working for me.

Depends on the japcrap really - some of the stuff was better than some of the instruments Fender was knocking out in the late 70's and early 80's.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='459257' date='Apr 10 2009, 01:25 PM']I've found its missing tuner! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170318313541"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=170318313541[/url] (this will take a while to load!) ... J.[/quote] Eagle eyed there Jon.

[url="http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Flightcase-Foam__p--project_2__k--36__f--1"]http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Flightcas..._2__k--36__f--1[/url] [url="http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1107000&GC=Group"]http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1...00&GC=Group[/url] [url="http://www.terralec.co.uk/hardware/covering_and_lining/227_0c.html"]http://www.terralec.co.uk/hardware/coverin...ing/227_0c.html[/url] This lot will cut it for you - [url="http://www.lemsfordcases.co.uk/detail.html"]http://www.lemsfordcases.co.uk/detail.html[/url]

If you can find one, a rack mount Blue Tube might hit the spot. It's my favourite distortion due to the fact that it allows you to adjust the bias to change the characteristic of the distortion rather than just the amount or tone (though obviously you can you that as well). There's also the Real Tube, which provides more distortion than the Blue Tube but is aimed more at guitarists. Both boost and bypass are switchable from the front or via a footswitch. They're also to be found in pedal form, only minus the bias control. Having said that, I've got a VT1 pedal and that's pretty damn good, so a DHA rackmount might be worth looking into. Maybe Dave could put a bypass on the front for you?

In the US, but here's a rather nice looking maple necked Aria. Shame about the non-matching tuner though. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aria-Pro-II-Aria-Pro-2-Black-Four-String-Bass-Guitar_W0QQitemZ280331597185"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aria-Pro-II-Aria-Pro...emZ280331597185[/url] Scroll down to the bottom of the page - now that's what you call tail lift!