PlungerModerno

Another one who pictured a candle lit dinner with a bass here. Sounds like my friday nights!

That's gorgeous. The maple fingerboard and the sunburst are really working together.

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1373032616' post='2133030'] Cheaper than a fiver? Cripes... [/quote]

Hello there, fretless is wonderfully expressive isn't it? Feel free to ask any questions, nothing is too bassic Welcome to the lower octaves . . . and the forum.

Saw it, pressed play, thought it'd have 20 seconds of May - maybe some interesting tech stuff. It's an awesome vid, cool to have May explain the guitar like that, and the tech had great banter for the camera. I was very impressed at quality of this one.

Good decision. I'm redoubling my efforts currently myself.

Hello from down south!

Hi there, everyone gets GAS from time to time, it's only natural. As long as you aren't constantly giving into it you'll manage.

Nice touch with the pearloid pickup cover! Sweet looking basses. Love the trans green finish especially.

That is pretty hawt.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1406904350' post='2515805'] The action on most of my basses is closer to 2mm at the 12th fret and I don't get note choking or much fret buzz at all. With every one of my basses they've always come with too much rather than too little relief; it's surprising how flat you can get a neck before fret buzz becomes an issue and then it'll only become apparent near the nut if you've gone too far (too little relief). [/quote] Aye, 2mm is plenty of room for standard tuning and medium or light playing style. With a Low B or detuned strings a little clank or buzz is possible without digging in too hard IME. You can get high tension strings (eg. 135 Low B or 110 E (or thicker) with typical construction) and they tend to need less room to do their thing. That could be just that my left hand had a harder time moving that extra mass under increased tension! (vs. same tuning with regular or light strings). With a light hand you could have a flat neck and play with little to no noise as long as the frets were 100% flat. I need a hint of relief however. I'll add that for slap or tap and some other styles (eg. entwhistle or harris type playing) a `to the deck` setup can make it a lot easier. Maybe someone else finds it different.

[quote name='lou24d53' timestamp='1406891796' post='2515630'] This thread reminds me of this... "Please design a logo for me. With pie charts. For free." [url="http://www.27bslash6.com/p2p2.html"]http://www.27bslash6.com/p2p2.html[/url] [/quote] Thanks for that . His lost cat poster is legendary: http://www.27bslash6.com/missy.html

[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1406901212' post='2515771'] There is also the issue of peoples level of hearing being different from others so they not be turning up on purpose. The guitarist may have inferior hearing to the frequency he plays at [/quote] Indeed, and the more you turn up, the worse your hearing at those frequencies tends to get. Protect your ears please! for you and everyone else. Get them tested regularly, especially if you play loud and/or very often.

[quote name='Sambrook' timestamp='1406892520' post='2515643'] Apologies if this has been done to death- in theory, I know how to fix an earth problem, but I can't seem to shift this one. My Letts bass has a wooden 2 piece bridge, and is earthed at the metal plate that holds the ball ends of the strings. The earthing inside the cavity looks like it should, but I get an intermittent scratchy sound when I touch the strings; it doesn't do it all the time, and didn't do it at all through a friend's rig, or in his hands. Is there something obvious I'm missing? [/quote] I think this noise is caused by you grounding yourself through the bass. try touching some thing else to act as a ground (eg. metal table, tap, unused instrument cable connected to ground) and see if the noise goes away. There are special straps for it but there's a tip in this vid about putting a cable in your sock that could help: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/212625-recording-bass-guitar-free-lesson/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/212625-recording-bass-guitar-free-lesson/[/url]

Good to hear you're getting results!

Good video! Very good info, lots of tips and advice put straightforwardly. A quick note: even if there's a clip light . . . [b]LISTEN FOR CLIPPING!!!![/b]... the light may not catch some minor transient clipping (or the blink can be missed by the observer!). Good DAW's e.g. Reaper show clipping visually in a clear way so this is less of a problem than with some older digital recording methods.

Welcome, and welcome back to bass. Enjoy!

[quote name='great harry' timestamp='1406673224' post='2513703'] I think basses look best when they are brand new and in showroom condition. That wouldn't put me off buying a worn one if it played well and I got a bit knocked off due to its condition. But paying extra for a new one that has been made to look old and worn seems crazy to me. I would feel like I was paying extra for a fake. [/quote] +1 Although I'll add that for basses over a certain age (20 years +) some normal wear shouldn't hit the price. I'm not going to hate someone for haggling though! [quote name='M@23' timestamp='1406758899' post='2514577'] Fender Roadworns are great basses. Be a shame to write them off because someone didn't like the paint job. [/quote] It would. A great bass is a great bass - wither they look great to everyone or a person in particular is another point entirely. I've yet to have the pleasure to play one myself, but I've heard they aren't commanding higher prices just for the relicing, they are great sounding, well put together basses according to most who pick them up.

Hiya hiya hiya!

Welcome!

A warm welcome from across the sea!

Thanks!

[quote name='linear' timestamp='1406668439' post='2513649'] From a geometry perspective I just can't see how removing the shim will do anything I couldn't achieve by adjusting the saddle height, [i]but[/i] I'm willing to give it a try - it's hardly an honerous task. [/quote] I'd say you are correct. As long as you have room to adjust the saddle height it should be fine. [quote name='linear' timestamp='1406668439' post='2513649'] I added the shim because the saddles were bottoming out after I fitted a bridge with a thicker baseplate, but that was when I was going for a very low action and was happy to accept a bit of fret clatter. Now I'm trying to get it 100% buzz-free, so I should have enough adjustment in the saddles without the shim. [/quote] Cool. A slimmer shim made of a paper thin veneer could be a intermediate option. In any case it'll work as long as it doesn't affect the neck joint strength. 1 or 2 mm less thread in the neck shouldn't affect the strength or stability of a well made bolt on neck joint. [quote name='linear' timestamp='1406668439' post='2513649'] I straightened the neck until it started buzzing on the low frets, then backed off a bit. Lowered each string until I was getting buzz on the high frets, backed off a bit. Repeated the process a couple of times. So now it doesn't buzz from hitting the frets, but the action is sufficently high that I struggle to play it without getting buzz from the fretted note itself, especially when I lift off :*( [/quote] Could be a high fret (or two), might be a great compromise between playability and the string noise you want can't be had. Are you using round wound strings? I've always found they buzz unless they're played lightly, or are incredibly dead - and always a little when making and breaking contact with the frets. I'm sorry but I'm struggling to understand your method of setting relief: Even a shoe lace tied tight around the first fret can do the job of a capo (at least on the outside strings - from before I had a capo!). From there you can press down on the last fret and check there is a space between the 8th fret and the string - if you have no feeler gauges you can use coins, picks or sheet material of known thicknesses to estimate and rough in the gap. It's worked for me so far. Edit: HowieBass has beat me to it with the business card.

Another reason to use a small spacer or tapered full shim is to keep the saddle height screws protruding too much on a bass that's close to the deck. Same goes for tilt adjuster systems. As far as relief - it needs to be proportionate to string height. Low action works with a straight neck up to about 0.5 mm (depending on how you like your fret noise). Higher action can work with as much relief as you want - but anything over 2 mm seems warped to me. I can deal with medium action but a lot of relief makes the upper registers unplayable unless the strings are flying high. Hence people who are afraid of a truss rod tweak tend to adjust the saddles up and up and up! (It also may help with slight back bow). The heat got to my Jazz neck too. After a little turn it's now got a good bit less than a 0.5mm picks worth of relief and it's playing as I like it. As far as setups go you can't go wrong with relief --> saddle height --> intonation. If somethings wrong it may take a few loops, checking things like nut action, pickup height, neck angle, etc. At least in my personal experience that is. Like Qlank mentioned, it's the nature of wood to be a bit funny with the weather.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1406279535' post='2510025'] I can hear down to 30Hz according to this audio sweep - humans generally can't hear below 20Hz, though. [url="http://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_frequencychecklow.php"]http://www.audiochec...ncychecklow.php[/url] You'll need proper monitors to hear the lowest frequencies - and watch your volume, it gets loud! [/quote] I can hear down to 20Hz? Well I can hear a rumble, But that's mainly as I'm wearing headphones.