Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

PlungerModerno

Member
  • Posts

    1,449
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PlungerModerno

  1. [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1406553295' post='2512341'] You ought to be able to get a couple of noiseless pickups of the same length as a direct replacement, something like a DiMarzio DP123S (short)? Likely cost is about £100 though. Doesn't make your Jazz the colour and fingerboard combo you desire but at least the bass becomes eminently playable. [url="http://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/bass/standard-bass/dimarzio-model-j"]http://www.dimarzio....imarzio-model-j[/url] Just measured my Squier active Jazz and the stock pickups are the same length - roughly 92mm, hidden pole pieces and perfectly silent when soloed. [/quote] Cool, I can always take an extra option or two. I should add - I'm somewhat hesitant to go straight for a noiseless set - I'm really enjoying the passive, open single-coil sounds. I know some better noiseless pickups don't affect that noticeably but I'd prefer to stay with the original simple electronics unless noise becomes unbearable.
  2. [quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1406547835' post='2512276'] If you send both pickups to a pickup maker they'll be able to match the two together. You can also get replacement sets in short-short format (Mex Fender pickups are ok but nowt special) such as [url="http://www.emgpickups.com/bass/j-models/active/mjset.html"]http://www.emgpickup...tive/mjset.html[/url] [/quote] I'd be lost without the pickups . . . but I'd survive. I didn't think of checking for off the shelf replacements. I contacted the creamery about a custom set - It'll probably work out a little more expensive than a standard short-short drop in set - but will likely sound a bit better. 60's spacing with 60's specs might sound pretty good. I'll have to see how it pans out though. Anything is better than modding the route and needing refinish work .
  3. [quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1406542070' post='2512194'] You could consider having the pickups re-wound- or one of them at least. Shouldn't be crazy expensive, and would save routing just for the sake of the hum-cancelling. [/quote] It'd probably mean rebuilding the pickup - making it reverse polarity - then rewinding in the opposite direction. Now that I think about it - their may be a way to fit a fairly lightly wound bridge pickup into a neck pickup cover... I'd need to look into that. I probably won't make a decision for a few weeks. It can't hurt to look into a pickup rebuild. Thanks for the input! PS: A quick search put me onto these: [url="http://www.creamery-pickups.co.uk/classic-60-jazz-j-bass-pickup.html"]http://www.creamery-pickups.co.uk/classic-60-jazz-j-bass-pickup.html[/url] Another option!
  4. [quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1406535987' post='2512121'] Don't want to put you on a downer because I know you're really excited about this project, but it really is much easier and much cheaper to wait for the model you want to come up for sale. I bet hundreds of guys on this site can empathise! Decent refinish will be £300+, refit the neck will be £150+ and a new pickup and guard could be £75 and at the end of the day you still have a MIM Jazz. A new neck will only be £100 and if it doesn't suit you can sell it on for more or less the same price. Fender Jazz necks tend to be made to a template so won't be that much of a difference between a new one and the one you currently have on your instrument. I once had a MIM Jazz 5 which I thought I'd take to the grave with me. Upgraded pups, got a John East J Retro, refinished it in Oly White and then ended up selling it at a massive loss a few months later. Sometimes you love an instrument because of what it is, not because of what it could be! I'm not a fan of the colour of my current no.1 (Oly white); I much prefer black. But I love it and if I refinished it or replaced it it simply wouldn't be the same bass that I love playing. Anyway, sorry for rambling, it's your stuff to do with whatever you want! Cheers, Alex [/quote] No probs, I appreciate the input. I'm not sure I'd refinish this bass - black is pretty neutral - like white it's not so much a colour as a shade. Looking at the cost of getting the bridge pickup route expanded, add to the cost of the partial resheild, redrilling for the slightly bigger bridge spec pickup mountings, even if I leave the neck as is - it'll still be parts + labour well into the €300+ range, especially if I get a ...fitted to line up the strings more accurately on the poles. that plus pickup fitting & wiring, plus a setup, isn't gonna be too cheap. even a used neck at €150 won't put me much ahead of buying a newish bass, and flogging what I got. I'll think about it, it's no massive deal.
  5. PS: [url="http://www.thomann.de/ie/fender_standard_jazz_bass_mn_aw_2011.htm"]http://www.thomann.d..._mn_aw_2011.htm[/url] - MIM Jazzes can come with maple or rosewood fingerboards as standard... And I might look into neck options and the cost of a bridge pickup before pulling the trigger. I could definately live with a Geddy Lee esque Jazz: Thanks for the suggestion. PSPSPS: [url="http://www.fender.com/store/jazz-bass-necks/jazz-bass-neck-20-medium-jumbo-frets-maple-fingerboard/"]this[/url] is exactly what I'd be looking towards - but I'll need to go through the dealer... still should be as good as an allparts - with the right decal! plus I'd be able to afford some of those supposedly good alnico V custom shop pickups with the money I'd save. Interesting. Still terrified about making the [s]extra 3 to 5 mm[/s][b]* [/b]I'd need to fit the standard bridge pickup in... [b][size=3]*about 2.6 mm from the seymour duncan diagrams[/size][/b] Looking at these diagrams from the seymour duncan website: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/dimensionpages/sjb-3b.shtml"]bridge[/url] and [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/dimensionpages/sjb-3n.shtml"]neck[/url] pickups seem to have different mounting screw spacings... I'll need to plan carefully to co-ordinate such a project. protecting the finish and filling and repiloting the screws... I'd be tempted to shell out for a local luthier to do it for me. It'd probably end up costing a fair bit more however. I could probably flog the rosewood fb neck and recoup some of the cost though!.
  6. [quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1406533004' post='2512096'] Not sure if you can get standard MIM Fenders with maple boards? I think some special run models and signature models do but obviously they'll cost more so part exchanging looks less attractive. Personally, I'd swap out the neck for a maple one. Cost effective and it'll look great with a black body and white guard! Truckstop [/quote] Thanks, But I love the neck that's on it - I could go down the mod route - get a maple fb neck, route a few mm out of the rear pickup cavity to fit the 94 mm regular bridge pickup size (give or take a mm) and then maybe consider a refin if I feel the need... It would be doable, but I don't want to hack into such a nice instrument, I just want one that has the 2 things this one doesn't: standard pickups and a maple board. And the easiest (and cheapest!) route is to leave this honey as she is, and move onto a stock MIM with what I want already on it. If I had a router in a bench setup - and the skill to use it - and a set of std pickups already - and/or had a suitable neck "ready to go" It'd work out way cheaper than buying a new bass and selling on the one I have at about 50 - 60% new price (at best). As it is I'd be too scared of spoiling the one I have. I recently copper sheilded the cavities (they were just woodgrain and regular paint) and was hoping for a vast improvement - but singlecoils will be singlecoils. from the front It'll still pickup any EMF noise loud and clear. Am I right in assuming the reverse winding on the standard bridge pickup has a significant cancelling feature when fully combined with the standard neck pickup? Let's see... [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fender_Jazz_Bass"]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fender_Jazz_Bass[/url] Yup: [i]"Pickups are RWRP (reverse wound, reverse polarity) from one another, so all hum will be canceled when both pickups are at full volume."[/i] The twin neck pickups in my bass aren't RWRP - even though they sound really good to me . Again this is me thinking aloud. Thanks for the feedback everyone. I am excited.
  7. [quote name='theyellowcar' timestamp='1406530000' post='2512073'] Thomann will allow you to return a bass within 30 days no questions asked - I think it might cost you between €20-€30 to cover the return shipping, but that feels like a decent risk if it means getting to trial the bass of your dreams with no commitment [/quote] I discovered pretty much that in their T&C page here: [url="http://www.thomann.de/ie/faq_question_general_terms_and_conditions_of_business.html"]http://www.thomann.de/ie/faq_question_general_terms_and_conditions_of_business.html[/url] I think they have a special 14 day regulation because of German law, but they apply the general terms to the 30 day period. They even offer "Free-way coupons" a deal whereby the return slip in each package/bundle can be used to freepost the package back - in the original, hopefully adaquate, packaging. Their very good support and decent pricing make them a solid option. I'll still try the local store first. I tend to support thomann for a range of bits I can't get locally. If I can get a reasonable price & return option - [i]and[/i] I get to play the bass before tansacting I'll be a bit happier. Of course I'll need to put a major deposit before an order is placed so I kinda need to consider that if they don't happen to have a bass I can live with... I'm kinda just thinking out loud with much of this thread. The hot weather leaves me a little light on sleep - hence myself being even more long-winded than usual .
  8. Hope this isn't hijacking the thread but over [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/241943-mim-jazz-conundrum/"]here[/url] I'm looking at exchanging/picking up a new MIM Jazz - and I just happened to have weighed this one (2000ish MIM): [attachment=167767:Jazz_top.JPG] It's about 9.6 lbs ( or 4.3 kg) This is from regular bathroom scales. All taken with (me + bass) - (me) - with a quick average so should be close. Anyway I'm hoping to get one of a similar or slightly lighter weight - definately not much heavier.
  9. I just weighed the bass, I fugured it was about 9 lbs. Turns out it's about 9.6 lbs. With the Jazz body style I'll probably not get one noticably lighter, but it'd be nice to get one closer to 9 than 10 or elven pounds. Hence my strong desire to try it before I pay for it!
  10. Hello all. I've recently traded my way into being the proud owner of a MIM Jazz [attachment=167766:Jazz_top.JPG] I'm pretty close to loving this bass - but a few things make me less than overjoyed. [b](i) [/b] It's got two neck pickups - no noise cancelling setting as it has two pickups wound the same way*. [size=3] [b] *It's a 2000's MIM Jazz - I think they were like this for a few years. I've measured them and the covers are both around 91 mm wide.[/b][/size] [size=3] [b]It's also very sensitive to noise with no change with both pickups open... I want to have the noise cancelling mode and the option of fitting a standard noise cancelling pickup set.[/b][/size] [b](ii)[/b] It's black with a white pickguard - I'm hooked on white with a cream/white pickguard... [b](iii)[/b] It's got a rosewood fingerboard - I'm hooked on maple (with the paint & pickguard from (ii) ). So I have a bitteen of a conundrum on my hands (yes, I'm Irish ). I am pretty certain that I'll take a loss on the Jazz I have - I can take a bit of a hit for a Jazz that balances, plays, sounds and looks the way I dream . I want to get a Jazz like this: I'd prefer to play the bass before I buy it, but since I'm after this very specific set of options, that mightn't happen . I can flex on the colour but not on the maple board . So I've some puzzles to figure out first: [b]1. Can I get a dealer (I've a fender one on my doorstep) to order a bass, and exchange it if it's 9.5 lbs +, without significant fees?[/b] [b]2. Can I order a bass online (e.g. Thomann, Ssweetwater, bassdirect, gak) and exchange it if it's very heavy or dinged, without significant fees if the above option doesn't work out?[/b] I'm going to see what the local shop and dealer have in stock - I might get [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NV6Rdv1a3I"]lucky[/url] . I know I can ask them about the above and ordering. I can live with my current Jazz for a few months. I'll start reading fine print on the online sites soon, any advice is welcome. Sorry for the long post. I'm finding the single coil sound is going to my head.
  11. [s]Hello all. I've recently traded my way into being the proud owner of a MIM Jazz [attachment=167766:Jazz_top.JPG][/s] This was misposted, please Ignore...
  12. Excellent stuff, nice and expressive, +1 to Mornats saying he looks like he's feeling it. Now I've got to go practice
  13. [quote name='lukeward2004' timestamp='1406369513' post='2510930'] No idea - warwick rip off maybe? [/quote] That's what I thought. A pic of the full bass, like LeftyJ suggested, would improve chances of a match. I'm unfamiliar with the logo... any other writing or numbers on the bass? It could be a Cort or Samick bass rebranded for a regional seller - That's what I think of first when it comes to budget basses.
  14. Well I'm back (Again!) Here's some new(ish) Bass gear I've been playing with of late: A cort C5H I've made fretless: [attachment=167487:Cort_Top_2_small.JPG] [attachment=167488:Cort_Nut.JPG] [attachment=167489:Cort_Bridge.JPG] Got some nice D'addario Tapes on it - Pretty fun for a first fretless! A bit more practical is this pretty thing: [attachment=167490:Jazz_top.JPG] [attachment=167491:Jazz_Nut.JPG] [attachment=167492:Jazz_Bridge.JPG] A MIM Jazz with D'addario NPS rounds (balanced tension XL's, 40 - 95 gauge). It's my favourite. Being a 2000ish Mexican Jazz it does however suffer from dual neck pickups. (Instead of a slightly wider one in the bridge). The string spacing is about 19 mm, so it sits on both pickups OK. Certainly sounds lovely. Although its a bit noisy next to harddrives...
  15. [quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1387361186' post='2311003'] if youre feeling extremley bold you could take a chisel to the body and make a recessed pocket with a snug fit for the bridge baseplate to drop it down so that it sits flush with the bodywork [/quote] Oh dear . . . Don't forget the safety goggles - especially if you break out the router! Getting back to the original post - There's at least 3 related but distinct issues to get get right in order to get things just so. 1. frets - are they level and are they straight (i.e. is the neck warped). 2. relief - does it have usable relief. 3. action - does the saddle adjustment allow decent adjustability from low to medium action. I have found 2 and 3 are the main things to get right, as long as you don't have very problematic frets you should be able to get decent action without too much fret noise. Something that I learned the value of is getting the radius even. Saves a lot of tweaking later on.
  16. whichever feels better? I'd imagine it's curved side away from the strings...
  17. +1 for checking setup and string break angles at saddle and nut. Also I'd wonder about the strings. Could be a few things!
  18. I remember it as "Flat goes Forward" i.e. if the fretted 12th is flat when the open note is in tune, then the saddle should be moved forwards towards the nut, shortening the string. The definition of backwards is "back towards the bridge" - defining forwards as towards the nut. That's how I remember it anyway. Try gently adjusting the G string each way and it'll be very apparent. The thicker strings tend to need a little help getting the kink over the saddle so I would recommend experimenting with a thinner string which tends to adjust itself.
  19. [quote name='marcus bell' timestamp='1386729279' post='2303839'] The plug I'm after [/quote] Plug away! seriously though - the cordial cable I use has a neutrik 90 degree jack and it's rock solid. This style:
  20. [quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1386243129' post='2297560'] I would suggest that you change your technique so that you don't slide your hand on the back of the neck. If the pad of your thumb is the only thing that touches the neck and you release the pressure when you change position you won't have the problem. [/quote] I've been working on lightening my left hand . . . all my necks have a semi-glossy or satin finish at this stage - but good technique is the biggie. A good trick I saw was gary willis: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoHEqQzbGAc
  21. [quote name='LITTLEWING' timestamp='1386089443' post='2295584'] Try this out, it's stupid cheap and incredibly jaw-dropping. Finest wire wool, rub up and down the entire back of the neck including the fretboard edges. (Mask off the pups first, they'll only collect all the bits). Wipe off everything with a cloth and then give it a quick polish with decent guitar stuff. Run your hand up and down and be ready to catch yourself before you fall. Do this to a cheapy first if you don't believe it. You can thank me later. [/quote] I'm with you on roughing up a high gloss neck - but I'd keep wire wool far away from my magnets and electronics - and away from my fingerboard. got a sliver of chrome in my finger a couple of days ago. can't imagine steel wool being any nicer. Use kitchen scrubber / scotchbrite pads. A couple of passes will take very little off the finish and leave harmless powdered finish and plastic from the scrubber.
  22. Depends on the person doing the work, the work to be done, if there are 'complications' - and if you are willing to pay for emergency action. I've been lucky but then I do all the fiddling myself, so I know I can't trust myself to have it done in time!
  23. [quote name='cameltoe' timestamp='1385661378' post='2290870'] just stuck a set of Balanced Tension D'Addario's on, and managed to drop the action to the floor! Bit of a tighter feel, but the strings all feel even- no floppy E, and the action is where I want it now. [/quote] I'm keen to give a more balanced tension set a try on my 5'er - currently 135 - 45 D'Addario XL nickels... I love them except the D & G (65 & 45?) feel tighter than the rest, which get's annoying - so when I switch them out I'm keen to get a lighter set... but would like to keep around 105 for the E and 135 for the B string... I'll have to see what's out there!
×
×
  • Create New...