geoffbyrne

I had a Peavey Cirrus BXP which is both top load & string thru. Made not a modicum of difference which way it was strung. G.

Yup, Ashdown is up & running. Totally worth it. G.

I'd just like to thank RichardH for making the boards. They arrived the other day & I mounted them to the cab yesterday. Everything works as it should & I'm looking forward to running the cab at higher volume. G.

I used to have about a dozen tracks there. Went in & had a look. My account is still there but none of my tracks. Bit annoyed. G.

MXR 80+ End of.... G.

Yup.

Adblocker Ultimate & Shockwave is disabled. G.

OK, just tried Chrome & it's fine. Obviously a Firefox prob. G.

Laptop, Win10, Firefox latest. Full site.

If you mean the topic title, the that's not working for me. It goes immediately to the first entry then jumps to the last. G.

Every time I click on a thread it presents at the last entry. I'd like to open at 1st entry. Is there a switch in settings that I'm missing? G.

Find and join your local Band Club. Will get you into social circle and provide loads of local knowlwedge. G.

I bought one as a Deko. It has taken a couple of weeks to get the neck just so, but it is now. The frets were atrocious, something that James Bond could have used to slit the throats of meglomaniac musicians bent on ruling the world. I bought an angled fret tool from Ebay and a half hour on each side of the neck has solved all that with no more bloody fingers. I *like* the neck and it took me about 10 seconds to get used to the fan frets. The Preamp is perfectly useable and 18v. I must say the multi-scale thing really works. The G string (nut to bridge) is 33.25" and the low B is 35.5". The lower strings ring loud and strong. I tried flats on it but ended up restringing with steel rounds. Only slight prob is a slightly high fret under low B at 4th fret. Well worth the 166 Euros. G.

I have them on 3 of my 4 basses. I love the tone. Just enough bite. G.

Dodgy string maybe - but before you try a replacement, take it off & put it back on making sure there isn't a twist in it. I've had this effect from a string put on at the tail and head then looped round the post, imparting a twist in the string. Removal & replacement making sure it's straight sorted it out. G.

OKDKY!! G.

Diagrams on Page 6, Richard.

Just ordered the P. Audio PHT-407, seeing it's the same diameter hole. Just got to find the crossover info now.... OMG I've just found the info & diagrammes. I'm afraid all that is just so much gobbledegook to me. G.

OK, I sat down on a stool in front of the cab with the grill removed & had a right good listen. The 'flutter' was coming from the piezo unit. I disconnected it & screwed it back on, but the sound was still there - coming *through* the slots in it - it's not a sealed unit!. I removed it leaving a 75mm diameter hole. No flutter. Any suggestions for a sealed replacement would be welcome, or, alternatively, the best way to seal up the hole that's left. G.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1496311369' post='3310376'] I can do a rough calculation based on that but I need the exact width and height of the port as well as the length to get it right. Check for anything loose whist you are looking [/quote] OK. Been in there & stapled down any loose edges on the wadding - there were one or two. Measurements (Internal): Front Horizontal Section: Width : 363mm Height : 45mm Depth : 345mm There are x2 10mm wide support bars running front to back. Rear Vertical Section : Width : 363mm Height : 45mm Depth : 190mm There are x2 10mm wide support bars. Total Depth = 535mm G.

OK I'll try to measure it up this afternoon. It's an 'L' shaped port - it goes all the way back and turns up about 3cm in the vertical, but I'll take the speaker out & measure it. G.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1496150269' post='3309137'] As Phil says it is not difficult and if you look at the first post there are very detailed plans. I have now built 2. The size is such that you get two cabs from a 1220 x 2440 sheet of ply. If you only build one cab it will be expensive. The poplar ply we used was 15 mm and the cost approx £50 per cabinet or £100 for two. I am planning to build a combo version so if [size=4]we can get two other people interested, I will buy some ply and dry fit the cabinets, cut the holes and then send them out to you for easy assembly. That means just [/size]glueing and[size=4] screwing the [/size]cabinets[size=4] together[/size] [/quote] If therer isn't an easy answer to the Ashdown, then I'd be interested in this. G.

If I pluck a low B and let it ring, I hear it 'fluttering'. The original driver was farting out badly at any decent volume (EQ flat) so I thought I'd try a Beyma in it. Big improvement but, as I said, there's still this 'flutter' that to my uneducated ear sounds like the air pushing & pulling through the ports. (Chuffing?) I was wondering if an exta round port at the back would improve matters? What measurements do you need, Phil? G.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1496150533' post='3309139'] Geoff is it this one? [/quote]Yup!

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1495957347' post='3307702'] It isn't too difficult to build these if you get the panels cut to size for you. If you can use a screwdriver the Mk1 pretty much assembles itself. B&Q will usually cut the panels and a smaller timber merchant will usually help. Some might even offer to cut the holes in the baffle for you. [/quote] ....or, could someone suggest a complimentary port to cut in an Ashdown Mibass 12" cab so the Beyma works properly? I think the porting is the problem, the cab isn't 'breating' smoothly at low frequencies. G.