geoffbyrne

Good idea, I'll give it a go next week. G.

OK I've checked those, but there doesn't seem to be a 35" option, unless the standard string is longer. However I note that these are mot recommended for through-body stringing, suggesting they are 34". G.

I defo had one on my BB415 which I parted with last year, but I can't remember what strings were on it, although I suspect they might have been Fender 9050s. But I doubt they would be OK for 35". G.

Should have said these are flatwound... Sorry! G.

I'd like to try a single tapered B - say 130 - on my 35" scale, but am unsure which to get. The rest would be Overwater strings. Give me your suggestions, Gents. G.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all Forum Members! G.

I had a Cirrus BXP 5 which probably had the nicest neck I've ever experienced. Unfortunately previous [s]dick[/s] owner reamed out the truss rod nut with an unsuitable tool (probably himself) and messed with the electronics so they 'weren't right' - bridge pup being much quieter then neck, no matter how I set it up. If all had been proper, I'd probably still have it. Construction was immaculate. G.

Sounds like they need you more than you need them. G.

Check that it's not a loose machine head rattling - i.e. the shaft, not the baseplate. I had this problem on a bass & I took ages to track it down. Like you, I thought it was all sorts of other things. G.

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1481211552' post='3190615'] The Ernie Ball ones are the same as the Dunlop ones aren't they? [/quote] I think Ernie Ball owns the Dunlop trademark now, but I am open to correction. G.

There's no nut on the Dunlops on my basses - there's a spring circlip on the back of the strap attachment that snaps on, therefore no nut to come loose. Only screw involved is the one into the guitar/bass body and it's slightly oversize to be nice and tight. See diagram here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jim-Dunlop-Straplock-Dual-Design/dp/B0002CZW3G G.

Buy a decent second-hand Yamaha BB. G.

If you want the series/parallel to work in the opposite direction, take the plate off, undo the screws and turn the switch round similar to what you did with the plate. I'd rather do that than take it back for repair under warranty - it's a 5 minute job. G.

Go to charity shops & pick up as many old Blues CDs as you can, and do a lot of listening. G.

Thank you very much. G.

Ta!!! G.

Could you get in a Paypal link for accessories only, Chris? Otherwise OK although my PC crashed first time through & I don't know if I payed twice - I suspect not, but could you check please? G.

OKDKY =Ta!! G.

[quote name='SmoothHoundChris' timestamp='1438117845' post='2831880'] No problem Dood! We'd had a few people bemoaning the centre positive supply and it felt a bit mean to ask people to source a polarity reverser for themselves so I placed a bulk order and we're now sending one out with every unit. It was only fair that we sent them to everyone who'd already bought a Classic!! [/quote] Can I buy one of these from you, Chris, along with the Neutrik adapter? G.

Thanks Chris. G.

Just ordered mine. Looking forward to it. G.

I've always wanted a date with an Aria! OK I'll get my coat....... G.

I had an absolutely beautiful Yamaha TRB 1005 lined fretless 35" scale. I found real difficulty in playing it and eventually traded it for a fretted TRB5. I thought it was the scale length that was throwing me off, but now, having bought myself an Overwater Perception ProDeluxe which is also 35" and with an unmarked fingerboard, I'm beginning to suspect I just prefer unlined boards as my intonation on this neck is infinitely better than on the previous. As I learned fretless on a Westone Thunder III Mk.2, (possibly the best bass I've ever had) perhaps my preference for unlined is understandable. G.

I have a UK built MAG400 and a 1st issue MiBass 550. No fizzing. G.