dannybuoy

Old thread I know now, but that tablet probably outclasses the Windows XP machine with 1GB RAM that I easily played VST soft synths and virtual amps through a good 16 years back. Install ASIO4ALL and you can even get 10ms latency out of the built in soundcard. If you own it already and want to mess about with audio apps on it, there's nothing stopping you!

For the main sound in the last band I was in, yes. There are other pedals that I think sound better in isolation, but when playing along to those recordings the B3K just sounds perfect in the mix. Much of that is down to the baked in EQ curve and that the lows are left relatively clean and unaffected. Looking forward to seeing how the DP3-X compares! P Bass and flats though - Tone Hammer all the way!

The Aftershock has a bunch of new models that aren't in the OFD though. Not that it matters to me, I thought they were both stinky poo!

Just out of interest, why do you want the aux input going to the main outputs and XLR?

Doesn't matter, at least one person will still moan about it! Some wanted it to be routed through the main output so much that it seemed to be a deal breaker, others (as above) would have preferred the aux in to be headphones only.

Whatever you choose, I'd go for something with a high output to better match the P pup, and possibly a split humbucker design to avoid noise. DiMarzio Model J ticks both boxes!

They recommend a laptop battery for the Double Four. I guess car batteries are meant to be continually run at close to full charge so are perhaps not the best choice for a bass amp then!

I'll record a clip so you can see what's possible with it before you splash the cash! EHX Memory Boy/Toy should work too, cost less and have expression control. But the MXR is particularly suited to controlling the knobs with the edge of your foot, especially after you fit the rubber surrounds the MXR sell.

Darkglass FAQ says all post 2015 pedals except the compressor and the latest Ultras with digital gubbins can run at 18V. My B3K is older than that, so I got lucky when I tried 18V by accident. Others have been not so lucky, so try at your own risk! The M900 preamp runs at 15V. I believe this is why so many people say they prefer it to the tone they got from the pedals. Ran my B3K at 18V and boom, got them to sound identical. Less fizz, more dynamic range and touch sensitivity to the overdrive. I mentioned to Doug on the TB thread about adding a 9V/18V switch to the plugin and he said they'd look into it!

Does that not depend on what battery type it is (lead-acid, NiCad, NiMh, etc)? I thought the opposite was true for the type of battery that comes with modern mobile phones (and portable battery packs for bass amps!) that it was recommended to fully discharge / charge every now and then rather than regularly topping up a partially discharged battery?

Radial Bigshot I/O GigRigThree2One Palmer AB-I The Gigrig is the only one with two level controls (well three actually), but in reality you probably only need to attenuate the louder bass down to the level of the other one or vice versa so one level control may suffice! Is the smallest and supports 3 instruments, but is also the most expensive. The Palmer only has multi stage pad switches rather than a volume knob so isn't as adjustable, but it is the cheapest.

The original dark green one, whatever that is! Not tried the new bright one.

Analog delay pedal (or a decent digital emulation of one). I have a Carbon Copy on my board purely for making earthquake/ghost/spaceship noises - you can play it like it's own instrument, tweaking it with your toes whilst playing the bass!

I believe you need to make sure it has conductive adhesive if using it for shielding a bass though. If the glue is insulating neighbouring strips of foil from eachother then the shielding won't be as effective.

According to some TB posts, their Line6 wireless receiver only used 350mA rather then 500mA and their MXR ISO Brick was capable of dishing out 450mA from its 300mA socket. Sounds like a useful device for those trying to squeeze the most out of a small supply like the Cioks DC5 like me!

Looks like a handy device for seeing how much power your board actually needs rather then relying on the often wildly inaccurate ratings in the manuals... https://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/products/truetone-1spot-ma-meter

Cool! I wonder if they modelled what it sounds like at 9V only... My B3K and Alpha Omega sound much better running on 18V. The Helix model of the B7KU is pretty close to the real deal also. 14 day trial too! I'll be giving this a bash this weekend then.

I've got a Wilkinson in one of my basses, sounds great to me and is cheap as they come.

Nothing wrong with that! A Les Paul might label their pickup switch as rhythm and lead, but they are only suggestions. I've only played in bands with one guitarist and don't ever recall them switching pickups for a solo. It would take too long to warm the soldering iron up for a start (badum tish!).

There's been an Oxide in the FS section for a while now if anyone's interested in one.

That looks like a winner!

There is a bit of a gap in the market here I think for a cheap simple battery powered headphone amp with aux in. Everything I can think of is either expensive, complicated, no battery, or no aux in!

Me too, analog preamp into a PJB Bighead for me (although I’ve now added a digital compressor!). The Bighead ticks all your boxes apart from cheap!