umph

[quote name='JD1' post='696000' date='Dec 29 2009, 11:23 PM']Just used it for a new years eve gig rehearsal. Totally different to the last time I used it (heavy rock trio). This one is a jazz / swing type affair. Backed the gain off for a cleaner sound - still plenty of volume but still a bit of grit when I dug in. Eude - you would be smitten as it was still fat and slightly argumentative! (You really need to have a night out in Newcastle mate). Not a problem (actually really nice) but based on my initial forays, totally clean isn't this amp's forte. I'm concerned about the related thread on the DI being too hot though - can anyone shed any more light on this?[/quote] you can't get a clean sound out of the orange? Had a go with one it was alot better than i expected, it didn't do great cranked sounds like i was expecting it did cop some good motown sounds though, not alot going in the low or high end alot in the low mids though like you'd expect from an orange.

or stick a 15k resistor in front of the input of the circuit to make it work with active basses.

play less loud or don't stand right in front of your amp.

[quote name='SteveO' post='696489' date='Dec 30 2009, 05:16 PM']For some reason the phrase 'made from military grade components' tickled me. Its a valve amp, so presumably we're talking about 1950's military components. [/quote] valve equipment is still used in the military at the moment! it'll survive a nuke but SS stuff wont

looks cheap and within my driving distance. i hate you.

second hand?

been there done that! except mine was with a guitar amp footswitch which the owner had done some "modifications" to which has resulted in all of the switches in the case being broken beyond repair, but he was quite adamant that the footswitch was fine but it was the switching on the amp that'd gone wrong and that i was bull shitting him!

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='694488' date='Dec 27 2009, 07:40 PM']I am going to disagree with everyone here and say it is sometimes worth putting the bass drum through the bass rig. We used to do this with a 4x12" 300w valve Trace Elliot way back in my first band. Punched better than any PA I've tried that didn't have separate subs, and better than many smaller subs too. We didn't try and exaggerate the click of the beater or anything but we got a solid, well-damped thump that really helped lay a groove. You might try putting a bit of the LOW end of the snare through as well, it's surprising how important sub-500Hz region can be for giving punch in certain styles. It doesn't need much, or it indeed starts to have undesirable effects. But in my experience putting drums through inadequate PA tops will compromise vocals much more than you'll compromise bass in this method. 450w is a decent amount of headroom to be working with. Plus if you and the drummer are tight, having the kick from the same sound source really helps create a solid sound, almost like the beat of the kick is the beginning of your bass note. And yes, before I get piled into for saying this, I HAVE done a fair bit of live sound with a fair few different small and medium systems, inc off the top of my head JBL, EV, Nexo, Martin Audio, RCF etc so although I'm by no means a pro I am at least able to make a meaningful comparison.[/quote] you had a v6 for your kick drum rig? wow

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='694175' date='Dec 27 2009, 11:46 AM']I see your point, but I look at it this way, it's 30 years old, how much longer can it go on for? And it seems sensible to have a spare amp. The other Acoustic head I have, has blown and doesn't look like its going to get fixed anytime soon. Besides, I have amp GAS![/quote] get your other one sorted as a back up and have your serviced, those acoustic amps are built like tanks!

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='693812' date='Dec 26 2009, 04:47 PM']Ok, here's the plan. My beloved Acoustic 220 head has reached the ripe old age of 30 and I've decided to semi retire the old girl. I'm in the market for something to replace her at gigs, MY budget is around £250 and I need something of around 250/300watts. I have been looking at a few heads and was hoping for some opinions on the following. Ashdown Mag 300, Little Giant 350, Hartke HA2500, or maybe a Warwick? I play Rock or Folk-Rock using a Warwick Corvette and a 78 Precision and want a clean, punchy sound. I'll be using it with my Acoustic 2x15 and home-built 2X10 cabs. All comments appreciated. Mark Kinton.[/quote] if it's not broken why fix it?

have a look at the muff'n and mesa bottle rocket

don't do it, thats hella sexy as it is! save some money on buying the parts and buy a bass you actually get on with.

[quote name='SS73' post='693376' date='Dec 25 2009, 02:37 PM']Rustic oven chips even!, could it be a custom shop???. Isn't it great when your Uncle is on your wavelength, just need an amp with big enough bottle spacing [attachment=38865:IMG00594...225_1428.jpg][/quote] ooooooo i'd love to crank those in a marshall!

[quote name='TheButler' post='693261' date='Dec 25 2009, 01:05 AM']Hey folks, The DI out is the only thing on the BT that is making it a real pita for playing live. Its uber hot, nothing can be done to it at the desk, its just distorted noise. Whats the hap? Cheers Jamie[/quote] stick a passive attenuator between it and the desk? Either that or take to it to a tech who could make it less hot?

[quote name='flatwound' post='692026' date='Dec 23 2009, 05:51 AM']I don't really know how to word this correctly, nor am I convinced it is in the right,... spot, but, but c'mon lads, I need help. I can talk to you on, valve timing, piston ring end gaps, and a whole heap of other subjects....but electronics leave me cold,(and I bet I'm not the only one) My drama: a while back (last week) I plugged my(this) bass into the amp, and, after making a few adjustments, I noticed that there was a crackling noise, when adjusting Bass/Treble control, which is a stacked unit (it is a 2 band EQ if that helps) The BASS (tone)has gone missing I plugged in again today and it sounds as if someone is trying to kill a cat, (excellent idea) I stopped immediately as I didn't know whether damage to amp might just be around the corner. All other basses are fine, so not amp. My basic question to you is this: Are the pots (potentiometers) (controls) dependent on $ value and could this be the case, or is it something more sinister. I have read in other posts where people say they are swapping out this for that (ie: pots that are 250k, replacing with 500k. (whatever that means) Are these pots (potentiometers) a big deal, and do you think this is the drama, as I am reluctant to plug the bass in again, unless it does "kill cats" Any info appreciated, and I hope I have made some sort of sense. ?? and.........have a good Christmas "one and all" [/quote] sounds like the battery has gone chap!

[quote name='rodl2005' post='692736' date='Dec 24 2009, 02:18 AM']Nice aint they!!!!>>????? Or maybe NICE aint the right word?? But U know wot I mean!!!! I got rid of mine- a '81 Superbass, simply coz I already had a 100w tube amp in the V4BH Ampeg & that does it all & is a tad more versatile & thus got more use! But I grabbed a Traynor YBA200 -200w all tube- with the $$$ from the sale of the Marshall. THAT YBA200 gets a lotta use now- as light(??) as the V4BH/JCM800 & 2x the power- she's a beauty!!![/quote] what

i'd go try out all the cabs at a shop to see which i prefered, personally though i'd avoid newer ampeg stuff like the plague

Latest one of two - a 200watter i've built for a mate. my lead dress is getting better! will have to redo the others at some point, think next amp i do i'm gonna use different tag boards and do all the connections underneath, will be much nicer this is the little 5 watter i've completely rebuilt, really needs a tidy up since its essentially just been a test bed, currently it has a 6SL7 for the pre valve and a 6v6 for the output, and volumes between each stage and a deep switch. It also has a post transformer DI so if you run it on a dummy load it can be ran straight into a power amp or another preamp which is great for recording or having more control of your distortion sound live. i'll have to do some pictures of them in their proper enclosures when they're built, i'm getting them down hiwatt style but in racing green with gold pin striping and massive logos - gonna look the absolute dogs dangleys i can't wait!

reviews say not. look into an english muff'n or a sansamp or something along those lines

[quote name='NURZE' post='692315' date='Dec 23 2009, 01:26 PM']the both run on jj 6l6 now. But, they're two completely different amps. which makes it hard... and they both sound pretty damn good.[/quote] i'd keep the 70s one and flog on the newer one, the 70s one is only going to be worth more in the future and will be much more reliable in the long run!

[quote name='Jigster' post='692143' date='Dec 23 2009, 10:22 AM']i think at the end of the day it's inconclusive - and I REALLY don't have the mental powers to understand it all, suffice to say, I called an amp tech, but the general scenario was this: I bought the Orange head without a cab, and put a new cab on order. Meanwhile, whilst waiting, I used it once in anger at a reh studio and went though a sealed 8 ohm cab (think it was a 6x10 but may have been 8x10) anyway, no probs, played great. Then used it a 2nd time with the cab I'd ordered, 1x15 also 8ohms, but ported - and that's when it blew, lingering brown looking smoke coming out of the top grill and output valve fuses blown etc. (altho to say, according to the amp tech, the output valve fuses were the wrong kind to start with - they were slow cut rather than instant cut) Coincidence? Why did the head blow then, and not before with the sealed cab, this is what remains inconclusive really. Anyway, so then i took it to the amp tech and this is what he put in an e-mail: "Two of the four 6550s in the Orange had suffered screen meltdown. This happens, for sure, but two at a time failing quickly after trying a different speaker load makes double-checking the suitability of the speaker important" - [b](which of course I did, the head has an 8ohm match as does the cab, so essentially, I didn't mis-match)[/b] He continues: "Very Low impedance is a possible problem for the AD200, since the anode voltage is very high (~700V) - low Z loads draw current while leaving a high instantaneous anode voltage, and potential anode hotspots. On the other hand, if the resonance peak(s) present substantially more than 8 Ohm within the Bass spectrum, these may cause rapid decrease of anode voltage and a sharp rise in the screen current. Although the Orange runs the screens well within spec (<400V) you could certainly get screen meltdown with unsuitably high impedance peaks - all dependent on frequency. Many drivers have their resonance curve pushed upward in frequency when enclosed in a small cabinet, which (depending on where they start from) may be dangerous for a valve bass amp." When I collected the amp head he also mused on whether ported cabs are suitable for valve amps generally - which I know has seen a lot of discussion on Talk Bass and maybe on here (?) - I really don't have the knowledge to argue anything either way, maybe a ported cab [i]doesn't[/i] suit and I should get a sealed one, (altho was speaking to Jeff at Matamp last week about this and he said ported cabs were fine, and not to pay any attention to that) Suffice to say, the head is fixed, I played it again and all works fine. I've returned the 1x15 (superstition I guess, fresh start I guess) and am now considering what to get next to match with the Orange. (maybe a Matamp) All thoughts welcome - but keep it simples [/quote] stopped reading after he said the mains fuse should be a fast blow fuse!