JPJ

My back is going to love me. This is a genuine one hand lift so amp in one hand bass in other type load-in. My band mates will be pleased as the SM1500 is a definite two-man lift.

Well its new old amp day here at JPJ towers. I've been searching around for a replacement for my Orange Terror Bass I let go a year or so ago, something smaller and lighter than my SWR SM1500. Being a bit of a luddite, I've only recently weaned myself off either big cabs or multiple cabs, and I'm doing more gigs these days using just my SWR Goliath 4x10 (albeit reconed with Eminence Deltalites). As I normally run through the PA, the reality is I have no need for massive backline and as much as I love the SM1500, the weight is a real issue, especially on upstairs gigs. I'd narrowed my search down to four amps, the AG500, the Markbass TTE, the Mesa Walkabout, or the GK fusion 550. After a few false starts, our own Geoff90guitar stuck his AG500SC up in the for sale section at (what I consider) a bargain price, so the trigger was pulled and the Aguilar arrived safe and sound today. Initial impressions at 'man cave' volumes are extremely good. It looks like the combination of the AG and the Goliath is a match made in heaven. The AG has that 'thump' that you can only get from big old transformers imho, and it takes none to very little eq'ing to dial in a very useable tone. This is the first amp I've used in a while (save for the terrorbass) that hasn't featured either a semi-parametric or graphic eq, and I'm quite excited by the simplicity of the four knob approach of the Aggy (bass, low mid, high mid, treble). Saturday night will see her first gig with me and as its an upstairs hump, she'll be a joy to load in/out compared to her stable mate. Further reports and photos to follow.

[quote name='hookys6stringbass' timestamp='1447247464' post='2906064'] Would like to have a go at making the pickguard any suggestions??? [/quote] I've had mixed results using a router to make scratch plates. My current technique is to stick the scratch plate material to an MDF template using double-sided tape and then use an edge trimming cutter with the bearing on the bottom. Experience has taught me to rough out the shape of the scratch plate first with a fret saw so the router is only removing the last 2-3mm. Also, I've found that its best to trim to shape and cut the chamfer in one pass using a 45 degree cutter with a bearing on the bottom. Word of warning though, the router will not only cut the plastic but melt it also, and be prepared for an unbelievable amount of swarf in the form of small electrically-charged chips which stick to everything like those annoying little polystyrene balls.

Any 1/4" collet router should do, but steer clear of the ultra-cheap ones, you know the saying, you get what you pay for! I echo everything said about templates, and no matter how small the cut, avoid the temptation to freehand as routers can and do 'bite' into wood and before you can react, the damage is done. Good quality double sided tape is excellent for securing templates, especially when clamps would obstruct the router. Other than that, the quality of the cutter is important if you want clean 'burn free' routs. Finally, practice on scrap first until you get used to the direction of cut (yes, a router cuts in one direction) and don't try to remove too much material in one pass, as this almost always results in the router biting or kicking with disastrous results. Quick word on health and safety - make sure your workpiece is either clamped down or on a non-slip pad, wear goggles or glasses, and I'd also recommend ear protection as they are quite loud. If you have long hair, tie it back because you invariably end up leaning over the router 'to get a better look'.

Why are more manufacturers not replicating the 4/8ohm trick of the Orange Terror Bass 500 to get the full output irrespective of speaker load? Or was that just marketing hoodoo with a physical switch?

I have nothing to add here other than to say its threads like this that keep me coming back to this site time and again. Some excellent knowledge imparted here. Thanks chaps (and chapesses)

[quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1446221141' post='2897897'] get a dremel or the cheap equivalent from lidl or aldi for about 15 quid and away you go. [/quote] Be careful with this method, it works, but if you run the tool too quickly you will melt the pickguard rather than remove the material. Junior hacksaw and a good round or half round file is your best bet.

Quick update: Martin posted this on facebook earlier this week which has done nothing to calm my GAS for this amp! "[i]Ok, following some soak testing, it appears I've underestimated the capability of the KT120 power valves. The design does indeed give 200 watts with 6550 valves, but these things can drive much harder and I've just measured 280 watts clean RMS[/i]"

For what its worth, herewith my twopenneth Firstly, scale length makes a huge difference to the sound of the B. I noticed this immediately on going from 34" to 35", notes played on the B string seemed more 'immediate' making faster passages easier to play. Having recently acquired a 36" scale bass, this is confirmed with an even faster 'response' and a much better definition overall. Secondly, break angle over the bridge. New strings, especially 130 & 135 'B' strings need to be manually 'broken' over the bridge. When I restring, I bring the B up to tension, stretch the string, retension etc until the string tuning is stable and then I press down on the string just in front of the bridge saddle to 'force' the string to break over the saddle rather than sort of 'arcing' over the saddle. This also helps with action, as my action with new strings is often higher on the B & E due to the lack of break angle over the saddle caused by the bulk or mass of the string.

[quote name='BassBod' timestamp='1445694410' post='2893493'] For the scratch plate, I've had good results with thin brass sheet. Cut out a section to sit under the end of the plate, then glue all the bits in place on top. Pretty much invisible on its put back together, but the brass takes all the strain. [/quote] I've done the same with a piece of really thin aluminium (so thin you can cut it with scissors). Glued the original pick guard to the aluminium and bobs your mothers sisters husband, pick guard repaired and shielded to boot.

Used to work with a PA guy who made covers for his bass bins out of carpet, pile on the inside, with the corners/edges stapled. Lasted for the three years we worked with him and did an excellent job of protecting the cabs from the inevitable road rash

Ive always had excellent service and great cases from Swan Filght http://www.swanflight.com

This is interesting. When I was looking at reconing my SWR 6x10 with neos, I suggested wiring it as a 4x10 using standard drivers and a 2x10 using LF drivers to arrive at 4ohm total load. The sound witch doctors said that I was wasting my time and I wouldn't hear the difference and that I should just wire it as standard and run at 5.6ohms. However it looks like these big BF cabs do the same but in a slightly different config?

Looks like a Fender Precision Elite from the eighties. Been a few basses down the year with the double split P pickup (BC Rich for one) but I must confess I've never played one. I think WaterOfTyne owned an Elite so he might be able to shed some further light on the matter.

The name was chosen after a poll on the local N.E. Bass Players Forum run by our very own WaterOfTyne. I believe that there was a regional aspect to the naming ;-)

Finally, an update from Martin about his all valve bass amp [color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]"[i]A long time coming but it's been worth it - the YI200 Stoneham 200w all-valve bass head, christened by this very group![/i][/font][/color] [color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][i]This is the very first one off the production line, following some endurance tests you can bring your basses/cabs down from next week to see what you think. RRP £1,499[/i]"[/font][/color] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/YI200%205_zpslyoprn6g.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/YI200%205_zpslyoprn6g.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/YI200%203_zpsegv7bdv4.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/YI200%203_zpsegv7bdv4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/YI200%201_zpsxyqxayxs.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/YI200%201_zpsxyqxayxs.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/YI200%206_zpsfdy6wi1a.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/YI200%206_zpsfdy6wi1a.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I'll be taking him up on his offer of a test drive soon and calling down to his new workshop for a play about. I'll report back later :-)

[quote name='Lw.' timestamp='1444375531' post='2882604'] ive never been able to get a tone i like out of an ashdown amp so i know which id go for but it depends what you are after i guess, im sure theyre fine though once you spend a bit more time with them. the cabs i have found more usable. [/quote] I've always had this problem too until the other night in a local rehearsal space. The rig was an ABM 500 into the Ashdown 1x10, 1x15 (sort of SWR Triad type) cab. Rolled off a bit of the bass, fiddled about with the sliders and bingo, useable tone in bucket loads with nice little bit of bite from the valve too. Eye opener as I've never been able to get that before.

Thank you for the kind words gents, as you can see, I'm one very happy chap. Thanks again to Mike (BigRedX) for selling her to me :-)

[quote name='redstriper' timestamp='1444502988' post='2883763'] That bass suit you sir [/quote] Why thank you kindly sir!

And less than 48 hours after collection, she's out earning her keep :-) [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/straightout_zps8m1giuq3.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/straightout_zps8m1giuq3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Graham' timestamp='1444403340' post='2883008'] That looks fantastic, how does the filter pre-amp work? [/quote] Well I'm no expert but the way it was explained to me a long time ago was if you think about it like a multi band graphic eq for each pickup, then at one end of travel the graphic is in the 'classic' smiley shape, and at the other end its in the 'frown' as you turn the knob you gradually go from one to the other. The good bit is that its still musical at both ends of the scale and with two pickups, two filters and a pickup pan, the tonal possibilities are almost endless.

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1444374804' post='2882597'] Exceptional! How do you get on with the long scale? [/quote] Very easily actually. The difference between my two 35" scale and this is hardly noticeable at all. It feels a much bigger jump going 34" to 35"

Yes, I was so busy babbling on like an excited schoolgirl that I forgot to mention the Overwater name :-)