Rick's Fine '52

I dont think there is any science to this. In my experience in buying vintage instruments, if its 100% original, then its exactly that. So if there are changed parts, then, if known, they should be declared. Its not always easy to tell with screws etc though, but it depends what you are looking for, or what instrument you are looking at. Prices will reflect originality, and some items affect more than others. Its certainly possible to find original, unmolested 50+ year old instruments with perfectly working components, and these are desirable. The exception, from my experience, is original factory strings. I've seen a few instruments claiming to have original factory strings, but personally have not seen this add any value, as its almost impossible to prove, and, its highly unlikely too, especially on a worn instrument. Someone else used the 'car tyre' analogy, which i would tend to agree with, although probably easier to prove an original tyre, than original string on something 50+ years old. If its not a highly collectible instrument, then a changed pot, or bridge, or strap button is unlikely to affect value too much.

I think there is a market for parts anyway, maybe more than a whole bass. They are normally common reissue parts. There are hundreds of whole guitars, but if you want a harness assembly, or a body, or neck etc, then they are far harder to find. I'm currently looking for a neck, but i wouldnt by a whole bass because overall its cheaper. As has been said, i think the majority are '2nds' or poorly matched parts, which are sold in mass by factories for next to nothing. GAK also do it, offering no warranty too. If it suits buyers, and they make money, then its just business. If there wasnt a market, they would go bust pretty quick.

Hows that tolex work coming along?, any more pics? Love these.

Whilst in New York several years ago, I came across this old Hartke cab (2000w 8x10 4ohm for those interested) in a vintage store with this plaque stuck on the top; [url="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/rosesguitar_2007/media/new%20york%20191_zpsbmcstavy.jpg.html"][/url] I then looked around the back, and noticed this sales receipt (Sold) attached to the back of it, look at the buyers name (Not bad for about £600, if legit); [url="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/rosesguitar_2007/media/new%20york%20188_zpsyz6ufssd.jpg.html"][/url] Apologies for this, but its not often you get to drag out a 7 year old pic of Jaco's ex-gear, and this is one such moment!!

[quote name='colgraff' timestamp='1453894542' post='2963863'] I'd buy it but am afraid that it might encourage aimless noodling. [/quote]

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1453671115' post='2961691'] And who would have thought it? [/quote] Hold the front page! This should be pinned.

So, in summary, some basses have dead spots, and some don't.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1453659096' post='2961500'] Ok..I guess I just haven't found them or heard them.... which I'd also guess is very unlikely. Since I set up all my basses and one of the few things I'm anal about, I think I'd notice. So, it is a no from me. I am also one for natural sustain so set-up and string and good basic construction is key. But yes, I don't have bad basses or old strings either. [/quote] This for me too.

[quote name='mazdah' timestamp='1453635496' post='2961186'] 99% have them. My Us Vintage P has a dead spot, my Squier VM jazz has one, my two Mexican standard Jazz Basses had them too. [/quote] If all these basses you have, have had dead spots, i would suggest its how they are set up.

I've never had a Fender with a deadspot, and wouldn't buy any bass with one, why would you? Not sure what the OP means by the Title of the post "The Fender dead spot", almost implying its inherent by the design. The design being a wooden neck bolted onto a wooden body, like 90% of all instruments. I have played basses with deadspots though, and always quickly put them back. I always find flats to be just that anyway...flat. I have them on a couple of my basses mainly to save frets, but generally its Rounds everytime for me on my regular players, much more responsive. Different tones though, so I guess it depends what you want. Horses for courses and all that.

Looks 100% contoured if you ask me, tort plate, 63 decal, contours. Looks like a '63.

http://[url="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/rosesguitar_2007/media/20151024_124456_zpsu7ln3bie.jpg.html"][/url]

Nice project, don't lose the guard, that fort is fab, glue it together while it's off the body with strong bonding adhesive, will be fine, just don't over tighten the jack nut. What's the colour to be? Aged oly white? Good work fella.

My favourite stack knob colourway is sunburst, but as you've ruled that out, here's my Olympic White example, aged to a nice warm creaminess... http://[url="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/rosesguitar_2007/media/20150610_193028_zpslxuqva5y.jpg.html"][/url]