mrcrow

[quote name='neepheid' post='422620' date='Mar 1 2009, 08:16 PM']Yes, I use 3 and 4mm hardwood dowel for filling pickguard and neck screw holes respectively. Drill them out to the appropriate size up and glue in the dowel. Cut/sand flush and redrill.[/quote] brill!!

[quote name='bassicinstinct' post='423585' date='Mar 2 2009, 07:50 PM']Just to clarify, I'm talking about the fingers on Freddie's right/plucking (non-fretting) hand.[/quote] yes...friction on that hand is good...the string cant break away too easily....have you tried an elastoplast...non waterproof type..acts like a pick

[quote name='Marky L' post='420015' date='Feb 26 2009, 12:42 PM']I usually leave too much length on the strings and curse violently as I wind the damn things up for seems like an eternity! M.[/quote] so do i but i have a string winder...adapted from the guitar model to take the big fender style ears

[quote name='mrcrow' post='422490' date='Mar 1 2009, 05:55 PM']a P pickup to just do that job only needs to buck itself put another pup next to it...which isnt matched!! and this could occur i wouldnt reverse any wiring on the P[/quote] edit the p is ok...on its own...the j is ok on its own on both the j is out of phase with one of the p splits swap the j leads and if now the problem is the E and A are out of phase then the j is no matched...brilliant deduction...and may have to be replaced iirc most P/J sets and J/J sets are matched for polarity and n/s etc...something i can say but dont fully understand hope you get it sorted

if it aint broke....

[quote name='steve-soar' post='423495' date='Mar 2 2009, 06:28 PM']If they are anything like their other strings, then they will be dead out of the pack, or after about 6 hours. [/quote] long live TI

[quote name='Buzz' post='423547' date='Mar 2 2009, 07:17 PM']Why would you want more grip on strings though? Surely you'd want them to be slippier so you can play easier and faster?[/quote] yes the fretting hand i used to rub the fingers of my fretting hand down the side of my nose where it was oily.. yuk!! its an old clarinettist trick to wipe the pinkies down the side of the nose so you can slide over on the pinkie notes so you dont have to think too far ahead which side to take the series of pinkie notes on...clarinettist will know what i mean if your plucking fingers are dry or rough...or have an elastoplast on them you get better attack when plucking

[quote name='acidbass' post='422827' date='Mar 2 2009, 12:13 AM']Does a Stack Knob Jazz Bass count?[/quote] only if the vol and tone are separate for each pup....

get the deposit back...cooling period isnt over start afresh based on their/fender track record insist to see the item before buying...but in good faith

[quote name='Buzz' post='423466' date='Mar 2 2009, 05:55 PM']Depending how the coating is, yes it does stuff. Elixir coat the entire string, effectivly sealing it from dirt/grease/chips etc... which mean it takes much longer for it to die, reports have them going on the months or even years with no noticable drop in sound, and the coating makes it smoother to play as well. Other companies coat the just the winding, which ends up being roughly the same, just to a lesser degree. I'm interested to be honest.[/quote] i have used elixir and was completely happy with the intiial...deadness...which really seemed like a well played in string and kept that way for far longer than other non sealed strings the point is that the sealing is not all that obvious to the eye...i thought colour coatings a bit twee...especially when the lights go down or everyone is looking at the singer

quote name='fusionbassist1' date='Feb 27 2009, 09:16 PM' post='421336' Ones i found odd where with 8th notes (quavers): rhythm goes - 8th note - [8th note rest]- [8thnote rest] - 8th note I've always though that the quavers should in this instance stand alone and not be bridged together and that the rests should indeed be individual 8th note rests rather than one quarter note rest.....am i right in that thinking? [color="#FF0000"]YES THERE MAY BE HARMONY NOTES NEEDING TO BE TIED TO THE 1/8 PASSAGE RHYTHM MOTIF[/color] another issue I had with bridging (what i mean by bridging is the beam that runs between any series of notes larger than an 8th note) was a rhythm that goes : 8th note - 8thnote -[8th note rest] - 8th note. do you bridge all the 8th notes together or have a pair, rest and one on its own? [color="#FF0000"]NO FOR THE SAME REASONS...A PASSAGE WHICH HAS AN 1/8 NOTE MOTIF SHOULD BE KEPT DISCRETE SO THAT AN ARRANGER OR CONDUCTOR CAN 'SEE' THE SHAPE AND COLOUR OF THE PASSAGE..A BIT LIKE A BANDED EQ ON A PREAMP...YOU CAN SEE THE SHAPE[/color] finally 8th note- [8th note rest] - [8th note rest] - [8th note rest] (in half a bar of 4/4) I've writen that as note, 8th note rest, quarter note rest. Correct? [color="#FF0000"]NO AS YOU ARE SPLITTINGTHE BAR INTO 2/2..SINCE ITS 4/4 YOU NEED AGAIN TO PRESERVE THE CADENCE OF THE MUSIC IN THE NOTATION...RESTS ARE NOTATION REMEMBER[/color] You could technically ahve a dotted quarter note rest but it just doesn't look right somehow. [color="#FF0000"]YES IT DOESNT LOOK RIGHT[/color] I can read music very confidently but when it came down to writing it I just confused myself as to what's right and what's not. --- On another point when it comes to bass charts for mainly home playing I've been debating with myself as to what layout is most useful. The 3 I thought made most sense where 1.Each main section just writen out in it's entirety but not layed out as a flowing score that runs from start to finish [eg 'A' section and 'B' section scored out with an approximate order at bottom fo the page] 2.A complete that score runs like one you could be handed at a gig with 1st time bars,repeats, coda etc 3.A score that does run start to finish but has little embelishments and fills actually writen in. I'm not sure which to use but I'd like to have a universal system in all my transcriptions so they are as accessible as possible. the first method would allow you to see the score, get the jist of the riffs for just jamming purposes and carry on with your day but wouldn't let you appreciate the little licks and tricks in the song OR have a record of the entire structure or small interludes not worth transcribing. Second method means it could be printed out and used at an actual gig but again loses the embelishments. The third method includes all the embelishments pretty much but wouldn't flow as well in terms of how it looks on a page and due to the little fills would be very difficult to use live although would be from a note-for-note point of view most accurate of the three. Sorry about the lengthy rant but I think we'd all benefit from agreeing on what is most effective in transcriptions, however small these matters may be. Cheers guys, Ben. [color="#FF0000"]WHEN TYPING OUT THE ABOVE NOTATIONS WITH THE RESTS ALSO WILL KEEP A 'RHYTHM' IN YOUR HEAD SO THAT SCANNING IS MORE REALISTIC[/color] and finally ....sorry about all the red and caps...i just wanted to put answers right next to your questions thats my 2p...or euro

[quote name='4000' post='422508' date='Mar 1 2009, 06:16 PM']Guitarists seem to be able to do it fine, so there's no reason why bassists can't. But I think you've hit on a commonly held misconception which is that pick playing is either off or on. Not if you're any good with it it isn't.[/quote] post of the week good call and i accept that...if your good...your good!!

do those coating really do anything i thought string technology was about cores wraps and steel material..stainless or nickel coated rotos must be losing out on their normal range to have to go boutique