mrcrow

[quote name='CJBASS' post='424214' date='Mar 3 2009, 03:27 PM'][font="Arial Black"][i]"regarding J pups...how would you fit them etc after taking off the big DC shape"[/i][/font] EMG have J pups in the soapbar configuration as well so would be simple to swap..[/quote] its obvious i didnt know that... just looked at the emg site and saw the ones thanks for the heads up on that one cheers geof

[quote name='artisan' post='423643' date='Mar 2 2009, 08:47 PM'] i'm begining to think the same way. btw thats got to be a warwick in you're avatar with a neck like that [/quote] 10/10 artisan...an early thumb... changed the avatar now but you caught it in time

the vol pots on fenders jazz and p are 250k the cap is 0.047uf good pots have smooth tracks and give good progressive control if you only use your pot for on or off and dont cut the tone i expect any makers pot would do

to get a really smooth finish is a bit difficult... but to go by car techniques...use a fine polishing paste like T-cut then brasso or silver polish finish with a good polish...perhaps car wax? the idea is to use circular motion rather than straight so the scratches are slowly rubbed out

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='425406' date='Mar 4 2009, 06:34 PM'] What's the scale length going to be when you've finished Wayne? This is how I did my Warmoth, much better than wood screws imo. [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/hardware.html[/url] Peter[/quote] thats how it should be...machine screws and inserts..that is the engineers way and can take a lot of torque to make sure the neck is really tight against the pocket and good pull down force even they can be repositioned

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='425456' date='Mar 4 2009, 07:30 PM']All done , sounds great. The reason the action is really all over the place is that my neck has a curve in the middle so I have a close action at both end but a high action in the middle so I'm going to have to tighten the truss rod, never done it on this bass before I'm bit nervous.[/quote] it isnt too hard to do but as dave says...a little bit at a time...i usually slacken the strings off when i tighten the truss rod so i am not working against tension do a 1/4 turn clockwise looking down the neck if your adjuster is at the head...and clockwise looking up the neck if it is at the body end re tension to pitch and check the bow do all again if its a still a bit big in the centre fret the first fret...capo and hold down the 17th...or where the neck bolts to the body...and check the gap at the 9th...usual idea is that a calling card will slide under after this set the action on each string and then intonation...that should be ok since the strings are already played in and not new be patient and go slowly your bass is fine!!!

[quote name='Mr.T' post='424846' date='Mar 4 2009, 10:34 AM']Is there any particular advantage in using double ball-end strings as against single ball end? It seems as though my recently acquired Status 2000 can use either, and using single ball-end would save me from keeping two types of string in stock.[/quote] isnt the idea that more brands and types are available at sale prices being single ball seems like a good idea to use single ball for that if you can

i feel 125% happy with my stingray 5 but want a 4 i feel 50% with my SWR combo...would like one with graphic and compression