mrcrow

how about some verdict on these 'industry standard' strings i just got a bass with them on it and i usually use TI nickel..or anyones nickel they are breaking my heart and making me use all kinds of eq to tame them even through my sansamp bddi they are new so i am loathe to just ditch them....perhaps just give them away any thoughts or flames

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='432833' date='Mar 12 2009, 08:21 PM']Hang on! Slovenia loses because I can't figure out how to buy anything from the site. Looks like US has pulled into the lead. Does no one sell these in UK?[/quote] what i think is .....the signal goes into a pot...specifically designed to do a job of work the signal can be any signal so long as the pot is capable of handling it and not attenuating it so who makes these pots...in the uk..must be somebody and it aint fender but there we go...and there you go good luck...and i hope it does the job too!! ps you could have contacted a uk luthier for 'a pot' to do the job..

probably cheaper to buy the complete neck...maple.. and have it fitted block inlays look good on maple

[quote name='Eight' post='432716' date='Mar 12 2009, 06:19 PM']Cheers mate. I've been having a look around at possible strings to give this a whirl - only taperwounds I've found have been £40. Ok its cheaper than a new bass... but still. Although, I have just taken another peek at the beast and everything looks ok except for needing to widen the nut slots; and I'm a little concerned about the saddles (hoping thats what you call them) on the bridge. How snugly should a string fit in those groves? I think a .130 would just be balanced on top rather than actually sitting in there.[/quote] the taper wound strings should do the saddle bit...but the nut once cut...its cut you can however rest the B in the E slot in the saddle to try the sound... really a 5'er takes care of all those evils and leaves you a G string....

[quote name='bubinga5' post='433019' date='Mar 12 2009, 11:18 PM']I have a Fender Jazz 75 RI.Although i love the tone i would like to improve it somewhat..Was wondering if i fitted maybe a Badass II bridge, would it make alot of difference to the tone??? Would the badass fit my 75? Thanks..[/quote] mass will give better sustain and open up the unfretted A string/make the G string notes ring better...harmonics improved dont forget to make sure the bridge earth wire is well placed when you tighten down the bridge... and wait till its all set up and your strings are in line with your pups before doing any notching mark the positions with pencil...untune...notch..replace string in notch tune the notches only need be very slight from the front face backward on the saddles [url="http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=badassforsale.jpg"][/url] this badass was used on several basses one being a jazz

the historical progress from single coil at the scale/6 position to split coil to twin single coil to full humbucker nearer the bridge never took in the P/J configuration imho its a bit of a marketing thing for those who want a P and a 'J' for pups in those positions to really be matched one would need to look at rickenbacker small thingy at the neck and a robust one at the bridge...single coils when you do that you dont really need the neck one though just a 3 band eq to manipulate the bridge pup...which should be a humbucker wired parallel anyone find that interesting...you ray owners

[quote name='Pkomor' post='429866' date='Mar 9 2009, 09:46 PM']Hi, I need to buy a trussrod for a project bass, i need it as soon as possable, and with no minimum order value so stewmac and thomann are out! Any ideas![/quote] a small engineering company should be able to supply a screwed rod and plate nut...you would need a pattern does that make any sense..someone must make them for those other firms...

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='432781' date='Mar 12 2009, 07:14 PM']It looks like Slovenia wins it.[/quote] good old euro zone

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='432775' date='Mar 12 2009, 07:09 PM']Got one in the US now, shipping is three times the price of the pot!![/quote] you know that pot is made in a factory for 5 cents and used in 1000's of applications....imho we in the music fraternity get soaked just because fender buys them in bulk and rips us off for replacements its the same with cars for just simple parts ...bolts etc hope you get it sorted ok though

did you set those witness points on the saddles...this action you are experiencing could be the results of the bending stress over the saddles slowly settling down easier to do right a way and not too much pressure. glad its improving

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='432760' date='Mar 12 2009, 06:54 PM']Thanks. The Fender parts list describes it as 100KB CNTR DTNT (part #0049443000) - if I have understood correctly. And I found a place in Slovenia that has them!![/quote] you are a lot more resourceful than me!! i met a guy in london last weekend from slovenia...its a country with high wages and levels of living...so he told me i guess you have your supplier no results for the uk?

[quote name='2pods' post='431491' date='Mar 11 2009, 01:56 PM']I've had this Ibanez SR1000FM Prestige since I gave up playing live, so it's hardly been used. However, it's recently started to become noisy when altering the eq controls (they're two dual concentric controls - Bass and Treble on one, Mid band and Boost/Cut on the other.). I've changed the battery, but no go. Everything looks OK inside, but the seems to be nowhere in the eq pots (which are way smaller than the volume and pan) to squirt switch cleaner. I can see something moving through a cutout in the pot when I'm moving the inner control, so should I treat it there ? It's a mystery to me. It was fine when I bought it, and it's hardly been used. Its kept in it's case in a cupboard which is not damp etc. Any ideas ?[/quote] pots work fine dry...but not with grit or such get a power air spray like those that you can clean a keyboard with...and the guts of your pc and the fan blades there are electrical sprays and i think they are carbon tetrachloride based...that should evaporate right away but blowing out any grit or dust is better done first if you check out the cost of cleaners ...a new upgraded pot may be a better deal

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='432612' date='Mar 12 2009, 04:46 PM']Er...and how do I know what pot to buy? All it says on the pot is 49443 0634 CT8[/quote] its probably just a simple industrial pot with detent...i am checking out a supplier

woooooohoooooooooooo!! rocket science..

[quote name='Eight' post='430113' date='Mar 10 2009, 08:50 AM']Apologies if you're seeing too many posts from me on this. In an effort to resolve needing to be playing in standard E tuning for a while, and wanting to be playing in standard C (along to records, doing transcriptions and maybe a bit of writing), I've come to the conclusion that what I need is another new bass. I know Schecter make the Stilletto Sub which is a 35" scale four string bass that comes set up for BEAD. Pricing isn't too bad but stock levels are awful. Do you know of anyone else who makes such a beast? I don't really want a five string if I can help it. Although I'll be keeping an eye on the For Sale section for them just in case.[/quote] there are a lot of 34" basses with BEAD...and G stringing...5 strings i cant see why you would need a 35" just get the gauges right and attend to the nut

i fouind my SR5 quite a beautiful bass with the rw board mellow and musical just what i needed to accompany vocals i thought the 3 band eq did it proud and the top end was tight and not scratchy i guess i got a good one

did a good deal with bill on my stingray 5 for his shuker 51P lookalike cool guy and a great player didnt know my bass sounded so good cheers geof

[quote name='gary mac' post='428048' date='Mar 7 2009, 03:35 PM']I have just T cutted my black pickguard as recommended by Mrcrow. It has come up a treat, not completely removed all scratches, but think I ran out of elbow grease. It looked so good I was enthused enough to polish the remainder of the body, neck and fret board (not with T cut). Took off the strings and boiled em up. Oven dried them and re fitted. Adjusted string height intonation etc. and generally fiddled about all day. Looking and sounding great.[/quote] good! there is a finer polishing medium called jewellers rouge for really smooth finish normally for glass and precious metals..

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='428725' date='Mar 8 2009, 05:44 PM'][/quote] one modification is to take all the earths to one pot and then from there to the jack that includes the bridge earth

anti vibration mountings i think the range to adjust the neck pup is quite small and since the pup is mounted in the splt is factory set the bridge one does all the work iirc good idea though

if you fitted new strings did you set a witness point on the bridge ie...bend down on the strings near the saddles to 'settle' them and form a discrete point where they will vibrate from....dont press too hard i have had a set of elixirs which didnt intonate well...they replaced them and all was ok in theory any pitch which the string is set at should intonate for the octave fretted to the harmonic on the open string....that is what intonation is all about..just moving the saddle to compensate for a thick bend in the strings not giving a dead node directly on the saddle...usually slightly forward of the saddle...on normal gauges going up a gauge should intonate...the string doesnt know whether the tuning is dropped that doesnt solve anything though does it.... i use an electronic tuner with no problems..on my 5 with normal tunings i check the cross string intonations on 5 and 7th positions and finally intonation on the C on the G string to the fretted G on the D string fret 17 and so on all sound well tempered and although not measured with a meter are pleasant and tuneful as for 24th fretting...i never found that fret to be too accurate if you are a player in the lower octave of the neck all should be well with setting intonation with a tuner....i hope!! i would say trying another set of strings could be the answer...

your battery connection if good shouldnt fluctuate the vibrato thing i think must be related to the preamp....corrosion may have occurred in more than one spot

the windings on one of the bobbins could be down tap the poles on each set to see if the 'pop' is the same and if both are 'live' with the vol on and using a small screwdriver...dont tap too hard and keep the vol down on the amp electrical measurements for resistance are more conclusive the pickup can be rewound easily if there are complications in that area i have read about this before

[quote name='Ajoten' post='428807' date='Mar 8 2009, 07:44 PM']I played a Jazz with the S1 switch last week, and with the switch engaged it sounded sweet. Really really nice. Obviously because it's A Good Thing, Mr Fender has ditched the idea - so is it possible to get a similar sound out of one of the huge range of current Jazz range? Passive P with a J neck would be ideal of course, but I've not made my mind up about the look/quality of either Aerodyne yet.[/quote] the jazz S1 changes the resistance from around 6-7 to double...around a hot P spec if you 'S1' a P/J in my opinion the overall sound would be a bit muddy... the twin jazz pup configuration as parallel is the better and borne out by the parallel setting on the stingray for me the sound has more top clarity especially if using tone cut measures