tauzero

Yes. An acrylic bass, 5-string with LEDs. One of the LEDs at the 24th fret didn't work so they sent me out a replacement neck. That was Music Zoo. Quality was good, fretwork well finished. It's a passive bass so no issues with preamp. I'll be replacing the strings at some point but they're usable.

I think it's a payment system like Event UK. Just messaged our drummer to ask him.

I'd like a second third fourth fifth opinion.

Yes, I use a 5.8GHz access point for an XR12 and also use either a Lekato or a Harley Benton 5.8GHz wireless for the bass, no problems whatsoever.

I would dispute that.

That's OK, there's no shortage of bassists who stick to four (or eight) root notes to the bar.

I bet that plummets when word gets out that he's been criticised by a couple of people on an internet bass forum.

This is the red flag for me: "it also relieves the player from the pain and discomfort caused by strapping heavy guitar's and basses over their shoulder." I wouldn't trust anything designed by someone who can't use apostrophes properly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185779208770

Same here. I'll use the B string for the occasional low D as a fill note when playing to a G chord, and for a beefier sound when I want it. I had a fretless 5 for a while in the 90s, didn't particularly get on with it, and couldn't find a 5 with a neck that I liked anywhere near as much as the slim and shallow neck on my '87 Thumb until I happened to buy an Antoniotsai bass purely on a whim from Vietnam. It so happened that I also bought a Squier 5 at the same time, a Super Special or something, P body with J pickups. The Antoniotsai came and the Squier went straight away. That was 2007 and after a bigamous period of a year or so, I went fully 5. Now I still have the Thumb 4 (and a fretless equivalent) and an acoustic 4, the other 20+ are 5s or 6s (plus a 7, 10, and 12). I take the 4s out now and again to open mics, which keeps me on my toes. I completely agree with @lozkerr that just because you can use 5-string fingering doesn't mean you must. In fact, playing Oasis's "Don't look back in anger", I find myself alternating between 4 and 5 fingering, partly in order to stay awake.

Consider this: it's pretty easy to work out how thick a shim needs to be to raise/lower strings by a set amount, or how much strings will be raised/lowered by for a given thickness of shim. Basic geometry. You need to know the distance between where the shim will be in the neck pocket and the front of the neck pocket (the point about which the neck will pivot). The ratio of the neck length (nut to bridge) to this distance is the ratio of the string displacement to the shim thickness. Worked example: neck length 865mm, distance between front of neck pocket and rear screw holes (where the shim is going) 45mm, shim 0.25mm thick. 865/45 = 19 approx. 19 * 0.25 = 4.75mm. This assumes a metal shim that doesn't flatten and that the area over which the shim sits doesn't deform, reducing the effective thickness of the shim. So 0.25mm of shim is all that's needed to raise the strings nearly 5mm.

I have been a leaver from a club band, to do more rocky stuff, and subsequently rejoined to help them out. They did sort out a full-time replacement, then needed me in to dep again for a while. The band I left to join dumped me so they could get a mate of the lead guitarist and drummer's in. Some years down the line (a few months ago), they wanted to re-recruit me. However, in the meantime, B****t had happened with me taking a very different viewpoint to them and it was rather obvious from various Facebook posts by some members just how racist they were, so I politely declined.

Extreme spalting?

I'd start by getting the tuner off the bass - however, I think if you rotate the bit that the string goes into clockwise (to loosen the string) it may push the worm gear out more. If so, you could try turning that bit anticlockwise and see if it pushes the shaft that the key goes onto out far enough to be able to thread the screw up.

Looking at the manual, if you are in the MEMORY screen, you can select a patch from (presumably) the current bank of 3 using footswitches 1-3, and if you are in the EFFECT screen you can turn effects on and off with buttons 1-3.

An ant writes: I don't think there is any sonic advantage to either method - none of my basses have pickguards and the pickups all work fine, OTOH Precisions are well thought of for some reason and hanging the pickup off the pickguard doesn't seem to harm their sound. Have you considered a sliding pickup, a la Gibson Grabber or Westone Rail? Perhaps run a length of 2020 Al extrusion up each side with T-nuts for the pickup to secure to and star knob bolts to allow easy moving and securing in position.

They've watched too many theory videos.

I don't get that bass riff wrong, mainly because I've never played it and have absolutely no idea what it is.

That may be why you'll see some relics described as "mint", which is quite confusing.

Sorry to hear of these diagnoses. As well as BC, there are some bass specialist shops that could be worth sounding out - Bass Direct, Bass Bros, The Bass Gallery. The first two are quite close to each other, in Warwick and Leamington Spa respectively.

It depends on the instrument as well. My 1987 Warwick is almost perfect whereas a Fender of the same age would look as if someone had dug a garden up with it.

I would imagine it'll have a transformer doing a step up for the main power (which will be rectified) and a step down for the heater power (which IIRC isn't).

The polite alternative to "two girls one cup".

I thoroughly enjoy David Bennett's videos - not just about chord progressions but also about time signatures.

Bob Catley used to go into the pub I was a regular at - his daughter, who I believe plays sax, worked as a barmaid there.