tauzero

"Less than 12mS" can mean 1mS, of course. Seeing as there seemed such concern about latency with this, I carried out an experiment. After all, it's all very well pontificating about it, but evidence trumps speculation. The experiment: Bass -> Lekato 5GHz bug wireless -> HX Stomp -> Lekato MS-1 -> Tascam GB10 -> wired headphones This introduces two wirelesses in the chain, plus a digital effects pedal. The result - no perceptible latency. So not "utter dog" at all. Lekato - the Harley Benton of wireless.

I consider locking jack sockets to be the work of Satan. If you're playing connected with a lead then the lead or the amp or the first item on the pedalboard becomes the sacrificial victim if you stray too far or someone (including you) steps on the lead, whereas with a non-locking socket the lead will simply pull out. Whether you play with a lead or wireless, it's fiddly getting the plug out at the end, and the teeny tiny button hurts your finger/thumb. So I wanted to de-lock my Ibanez EHB. This, in theory, is a simple operation. Remove the small crosshead screw holding in the core of the socket, slide it out, remove whichever locking bits you want. However, my socket core appeared to be held in with a rivet, so replacement was the way to go. The entire structure corresponds to an XLR blanking plate (type D IIRC) so I got one of those and a jack socket, drilled a hole in the middle of the blanking plate, discovered that the screw holes meant I had to have it as an outie rather than an innie, soldered it up, then put it back in position. Lovely. Well, as I was writing this, I thought I'd include a picture of the locking jack socket and its rivet. And then, looking more closely with a magnifying glass, I saw that the rivet wasn't a rivet, it was a Torx (6-pointed) screw. Oh well...

I've got a couple of bits of Lekato kit which I have restricted to use between audio sources and audio targets. As yet no crustaceans or thermal devices form any part of my audio chain, although this is partly because I've taken a bit of a holiday from prog. As audio links, it works well. I shall incorporate a fuller review into one of the tracks off my next prog album, Blowtorch the oysters and I'll have the mussels rare.

I've got a Crafter acoustic with piezo. I suppose it was about 15 years ago that I decided to upgrade from my Eko 6 and went to PMT, and played a lot of acoustics, including some above my budget (IIRC about £500, but preferably less). The Crafter was nicely playable and also had an excellent tone, and it was only £175, so it came home with me. I've finished up not really using it as for the occasional open mic night I take a Variax and put it on an acoustic setting. I still have the Eko 6 incidentally, it lies around waiting for me to come up with ideas for songs.

Sounds like your 12-string is set up the reverse to most 12-strings too. On my 12-string, and all the others that I've played, the octave strings are above the standard strings so on a downward strum the first string that you hit is the octave.

I would go for option B, but I have no way of knowing how much the guitar company workforce is paid, how much profit there is, how much is reinvested, and how much goes to shareholders and directors. Seeing the way that wealth redistribution in the UK and US is operating in anti-Robin Hood mode, I would be chary of further lining the pockets of some bloated capitalist.

Is that a different Fret King to the one that makes a line of extremely boring Fender clones?

Same here.

Release notes for 3.51 and 3.52 both specifically say that there is no planned firmware update 3.51 or 3.52.

I'm sure they will feel totally impoverished as a consequence.

It's only one more hole. If you're worried that it might affect the balance, cut the headstock off. 😁

This may or may not be of interest. Because I wanted to practice using headphones with no wires into or out of the Tascam GB-10 I use, I finished up buying a Lekato MS-1 IEM system from AliExpress (this is the item in question). 3.5mm stereo input, 3.5mm stereo output, charged via USB, you supply the earphones. Receiver has volume up/down, transmitter can pair with up to 8 receivers. Costs £30. Not exactly sophisticated but perhaps an easy and cheap way to go from wired IEMs to wireless.

Lekato wireless thingie arrived a couple of days ago (impressive speed). This is the device in question - so I have bass to GB-10 via wireless Lekato, GB-10 to headphones via wireless Lekato. There seems to be a slight loss of quality compared to just running wired but I could be wrong, and it's certainly good enough quality for practice.

Page 120 of the manual.

Go headless. Hohner B2, very compact, or if you'd rather have a bit of body, Hohner Jack. Keeps you at 34" scale length, no stupid headstock to hit things with (unless you really want to) or wreck the balance.

They're absolutely horrible to play.

I don't think @snorkie635's 8-string is the more conventional setup - AFAICS most 8-strings have the octave string uppermost, as does my Dean 10-string. Also, as 4-string sets start at around £15-20, £40 for twice the number of strings seems OK. I can't remember exactly what I did, I think it was a five-string set (or possibly a 6-string set) and a number of single strings.

A quick mention that there's a v3.52 HX Edit out. There's no firmware changes though.

I don't feel even the faintest stirring of desire for that.

Changing it to V/V with no blend would need the schematic and somebody who was reasonably expert in electronics to work out how to do it. None of the stacked pots in the link @Passinwind provided would fit the requirements - it needs one undetented log pot for volume (we don't know the value) and one 50k linear centre detented. It looks like there's three which has a mix of log and lin (P1052, P1053, P1056) but the actual values don't match up with what you need.

You could put one together yourself. A second-order passive filter would give you -6dB/octave. https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_3.html

This is why you need this:

To expand a bit on that - if you look at the left-hand board, it has two rows of holes for the pot to be soldered two, but the pot used is a single pot (compare with the two pots on the other board which are both double pots). If you look at the left hand board between the pots, you can see and the bottom line says that if you have a piezo, you change the single variable resistor to a dual one. That also tells us the value of the blend pot. Whether such a pot exists is another matter. I think it's unlikely.