Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

neepheid

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    9,533
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

Everything posted by neepheid

  1. Assuming it is VVT with 3 way switch then will this help? [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_1t_3w"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...tic=2h_2v_1t_3w[/url]
  2. [quote name='DRussell21' post='1040610' date='Nov 28 2010, 11:34 PM']The idea of using wood veneer might work!! very interested in this. The only problem i have is that if the D string is 10 mill different to the rest of the strings it might play differently still with the veneer on? Is there a specific method of taking off the nut, putting veneer underneath it, glueing etc?[/quote] Do remember that ultimately this is a bodge. If this instrument is valuable to you then don't skimp - take it to someone who knows what they're doing and they'll sort out the existing nut if they can and make a new nut from a blank if they can't. The veneer is only going to help if all the strings are too low, the strip of veneer will raise everything by a uniform 0.6mm. If you have a string which is wildly different to the others then the only sensible option is to get a replacement. If you can't get a suitable direct replacement then get one made specially. Good pics and stuff about nut removal: [url="http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/nut.php"]http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/...-guitar/nut.php[/url] [url="http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/refret.html"]http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/refret.html[/url] Before making any permanent changes, you can do a dry run - put the sliver of veneer in the channel where the nut was, set the nut on top then pop the strings back on. Strings under tension will hold it down temporarily while you check things out. If all is well, a small quantity of wood glue between the channel and the veneer and a small amount between the veneer and the nut should keep things in place. Again, stringing and tuning up should provide enough clamping pressure to keep everything together while the glue dries. Remember to wipe off any excess glue which might squeeze out right away with a damp cloth. As I said above this is a bodge.
  3. Similar situation to me - the band I was in broke up. We had a few weeks off while the singer moved house (fair enough) and I instigated a meet down the pub to get things kick started again. Guitarist announces that he feels the band has run its course. As the main creative source in the band that meant tatties over the side for the band. There's more to it than that, but I'm not going to discuss it publicly. Suffice to say it was a bolt out of the blue to the rhythm section. Singer, drummer and myself are going to get someone new and start from scratch. In the mean time I've been keeping myself busy with ska covers and augmenting some folky stuff with bass (no drums) which seems to work quite well.
  4. Welcome to the forum I'm not familiar with either of these basses, but I'm sure someone can help.
  5. There's always the humour option: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120649326389"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=120649326389[/url]
  6. Yes please, I'll have a go. Very generous of you btw.
  7. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1038480' date='Nov 27 2010, 01:56 AM']The RD has a 36" scale, that makes playing a bit harder whatever the manufacturer (although a top horn would probably help.[/quote] Is that the 36" scale baby eating version?
  8. [quote name='Chris2112' post='1037897' date='Nov 26 2010, 03:46 PM']Erm, lets see... Les pauls, Thunderbirds, EB series, RD, Grabber, Ripper, Explorer...I guess I've about played them all, and they've always sounded absolutely dreadful![/quote] That's a fair amount of experience. Apologies for the pedantry, but I get tired of all the Gibson bashing that goes on, some of it unfounded. I wanted to know what grounding in fact your opinion had. I find it interesting that both the Gibsons I own are missing from that list. Maybe I picked the good 'uns
  9. I'd overlook a lot for the right bass, and that includes the colour
  10. Tom bought a pedal from me, paid straight away, good comms, you'll have no worries dealing with this gentleman.
  11. [quote name='Chris2112' post='1037167' date='Nov 25 2010, 11:51 PM']I'll nominate the entire Gibson range just for sounding awful. I can't even think of another bass manufacturer that sounds as consistently awful as Gibson. Even Fender get it ridiculously right sometimes (Fender Urge basses, Zone bass etc etc).[/quote] Played them all, have you?
  12. [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1037191' date='Nov 26 2010, 12:19 AM']He doesn't have a feedback thread[/quote] Start him up one
  13. [quote name='bubinga5' post='1036927' date='Nov 25 2010, 09:00 PM']if you were my next door neighbour and we were doing a deal on a bass would you make a profit on me?[/quote] Might do.
  14. I've sold stuff on here at a profit, I've broken even, I've sold at a loss, I've given stuff away. It's no-one's business but mine, frankly, and anyone who wants to stick their oar in will be robustly rebuffed. You don't like the price of something I'm selling - don't buy it!
  15. There are people who are much better bet than me for pricing estimates. Like Jules. Try asking the question at [url="http://forums.vintageguitars.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19"]this forum[/url]?
  16. [quote name='Truckstop' post='1036469' date='Nov 25 2010, 03:20 PM']Cut only? That's interesting. I don't remember that being covered in my dream... So there's really not much difference between a USA and a Tribute? Truckstop[/quote] Yeah, the bass and treble controls are passive, cut only. The trick is to run them both around 80% for a kick off then adjust as necessary. While they have an active mode, it is little more than a line boost. There is a treble boosted active mode which can impart a little more top end sizzle if that's your thing. I think the idea is that the MFD pickups are so damn good that they don't need help from active EQ. I'd have to say that in my experience that is true - I mostly use my L-2000 in passive mode. Main differences (USA vs. Tribute): better tuners, slightly more attention to detail (like tuners being screwed on straight!), US made hardware instead of licensed reproductions, choice of neck profiles (for 4 stringers), probably nicer looking woods, more choice of finishes, options like body binding.
  17. G&L Tributes are excellent basses - if anything they're too good in the sense that I feel no desire to own a USA G&L. Same pickups as USA models, which let's face it is where most of the sound comes from. I have an L-2000 and I have found it to be excellent quality. I don't see how an L-2500 will be any different. The only thing you need to get used to is the EQ, which is cut only.
  18. Won't you need a stereo jack?
  19. I would guess that anyone who dabbles in the thin stringed side of things will know what these are but in case you don't: [url="http://www.bossus.com/gear/productdetails.php?ProductId=127"]http://www.bossus.com/gear/productdetails.php?ProductId=127[/url] I bought this DS-1 with the intention of modding it for bass distortion, but I can't be bothered so I'm moving it on. It's in good nick, save for a couple of corners where the paint has scuffed off (the usual places). No box or instructions, but it's not really that hard to use! It'll cost you £25 including delivery. Cheers
  20. Confirmed that it's a strange imperial size, but I can't remember off the top of my head what it is.
  21. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  22. [quote name='Ou7shined' post='1033580' date='Nov 23 2010, 09:47 AM']I'm hoping to have it completed and all the wrinkles ironed out for Moffat.[/quote] Rough translation - up all night the night before the bash
  23. Try raising the nut by putting a strip of wood veneer underneath it. That should raise it by approx 0.6mm.
×
×
  • Create New...