neepheid

Having only done 9 gigs in my life so far I have to say that it's all still pretty exciting to me and well worth the effort. I am lucky in that I've only had to humph gear to 3 of them as most of the venues I've played in have house backline then DI into the PA (which doesn't bother me as long as I can hear myself on stage). The other times it's just been a case of turn up with bass/bag o' bits 'n' pieces, soundcheck, nurse a Guinness, play, tidy up then drink more Guinness. Ask me in 91 gigs time to see if I've revised my opinion

[quote name='BigRedX' post='958042' date='Sep 16 2010, 09:42 AM']That looks fantastic! Out of interest was the neck always natural finish? Or is this something that you've decided to do? I always though Gibson made an effort to match the finish of their necks to the bodies they were attached to.[/quote] Yes the neck was always natural finish, based upon the heel being clear and having visible date stamps etc. This bass was originally CAR and clear coat neck. It would have looked like Jules' Custom (but with different tuners) To the best of my knowledge, only the ebony (black) Victory had a matching painted neck and for all other body colours the neck was clear coated. I don't know if that was the rule or some ebony ones slipped through with clear necks. It wouldn't surprise me, I've seen Standards with brass nuts (when they're not supposed to have), Artists with Standard branded truss rod covers, sometimes the headstock says "Gibson Victory" and sometimes it says "Gibson Victory Bass", there's been 3 different tuner types used over a 5 year production run, put simply: nothing would surprise me. Gibson Victory bass information overload: [url="http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/Victory.php"]http://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/Victory.php[/url]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='954623' date='Sep 13 2010, 12:42 PM']He was scared at the prospect of taking the protective film off the p/g just now so it looks a bit greyer here than it will come the grand unveiling.[/quote] Not scared, just didn't see the point in exposing the pickguard to risk of not looking pristine before it's even finally attached to the bass. Peeling the film off will be almost ceremonial, a marking of the end of the project. Speaking of looking pristine, I've ordered some new pickguard screws to replace the rather tarnished originals.

Masking tape and brasso. Mask above and below the fret, quick rub with brasso, wipe off, remove tape, repeat until done.

I haven't been completely idle while Rich has been working his magic, I've made a new cover for the battery compartment. Compare and contrast with the old one (ruined by adding that daft switch): Just the countersinking to do on the screw holes - but I can't find a countersink bit so I'll have to buy one, boo!

[quote name='WHUFC BASS' post='943213' date='Sep 2 2010, 11:51 AM']Fender basses seem to be modded at every given oppurtunity and the bent piece of tin for a bridge is usually the first to go. Why not so on a Musicman Stingray ? In effect its just a slightly bigger bent bit of tin surely yet I've never seen any that have been modded. Any ideas why ?[/quote] Because no-one's made a simple drop in direct replacement which affords any improvement?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='941615' date='Sep 1 2010, 12:14 AM']Yep but you have to have a drill press to do it. No matter how skilled you might be the holes will look sh*t when they come through the other side if you do it freehand.[/quote] +1 Drill press essential. I did a Squier Bronco and attached the bridge, drilled through the small hole all the way using the holes in the bridge as a guide, then took off the bridge, flipped it round and then centred the big drill bit on the small holes and drilled the recesses for the ferrules. A tip from the voice of bitter experience - make sure you drill down far enough for the recesses, it's devilishily difficult to get the big bit back into an existing hole exactly if you need to go back. Measure the ferrule, mark the drill bit with tape at the appropriate depth, or use the depth gauge on the drill press if it's good enough. No problem if you go a bit deeper, but don't end up shallow! I'm guessing that your friend won't need told this though.

Ha ha, I had forgotten about this. Nice work Jon, looks good. Perhaps a tripod thread would be a good addition?

I am a multiple bass owner, but on a related note - I agreed with a mate that despite my weird Gibson bass fetish if I could only keep one of my current basses it would be the G&L Tribute L-2000.

I think it's 5 at this time: Epiphone Les Paul (Not So) Standard Gibson G-3 Gibson Victory Artist G&L Tribute L-2000 Home made thing

Dunno, but if anyone sees winning lottery tickets in their crystal ball, let me know

[quote name='lanark' post='937102' date='Aug 26 2010, 01:15 PM']Sorry BigRedX, I've placed a VISIT THIS THREAD INSTEAD message on the other one. Thanks for the advice anyway - and apologies for putting you to any trouble. On the amp front. I've opened it up and the socket is soldered on with just three wires. As I'm rubbish with a soldering iron, our keyboardist (who has a degree in electrical engineering before anyone gets too concerned) has offered to replace the socket. I just need to make sure I get the right part.[/quote] Am I to take it from that statement that you no longer require me to open up my amp this evening?

[quote name='Girl_from_mars' post='937160' date='Aug 26 2010, 02:07 PM']I planned to go into a guitar shop before Sunday to purchase them but I'm sh*t scared of these places. They are usually run by conceited tw*ts. Being a girl too, they just assume you're stupid. Any pearls of Wisdom for me before I set off to locate soime strings? Also, I'm in NW London so if anyone can recommend a non tw@tty guitar shop, even better! Cheers [/quote] Buy online, problem solved. Both Stringbusters and Strings Direct usually get strings to you next day. Order soon today and you should have them in time for the weekend

[quote name='lanark' post='936758' date='Aug 26 2010, 08:54 AM']I appreciate that it has to be secure, but there seems to be no obvious way in. There are four screw about an inch in from each corner on the top and I presume that they hold the amp section in place. But there's a wire from the amp going down to the speaker, so if I slide the amp out, won't I be unable to get that wire back in place?[/quote] There's probably enough slack in the wire to get the amp circuitry out - how did they get it in there in the first place? Just try it - if it pulls taut before you get the amp section out then I'm wrong, but as long as you don't yank it then it won't do any harm, just put it back and try something else. If you can wait until tonight, I have one of these amps, so I'll try to remove the amp section and let you know how I get on.

Hmm, good question. I think I'm sitting at about £1450.

It's maple end to end, it weighs nearly 12lb and I'm going to use it to hit people over the head who say Gibson basses are crap. Then they can really feel the workmanship

I don't think that's an unreasonable price.

Took a while to shift my Italia, and not on here for once. Got what I wanted for it though.

Exciting times! Thanks a lot for taking this on, there's no way I could do it justice.

Looks like a Danelectro Longhorn to me.

Quick update: lacquer's here, and the new pickguard should arrive tomorrow

Buy at the bottom of that range and sell at the top of that range and you'll be laughing.