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neepheid

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Everything posted by neepheid

  1. Could fit a Schaller M4S - check the technical diagram here: [url="http://bass-machine-heads.com/hp135297/Bass.htm?ITServ=C75066bd5X12cc6457d8cX7b65#tab_tz"]http://bass-machine-heads.com/hp135297/Bas...d8cX7b65#tab_tz[/url] I'll see if I have a photo of the back of the headstock of my Gibson Victory Artist, it uses Gibson branded M4S tuners. EDIT: there you go:
  2. Because I mostly buy second hand basses, I only change the strings if they're no good.
  3. For sale is a set of TI Jazz flats which I haven't played much, a couple of hours tops. Unfortunately they were cut for a 2 + 2 headstock so they won't fit a 4 in line headstock. I did leave a lot of wraps on the D string so they should fit a 3 + 1 arrangement a la Stingray, but I'll give you the measurements here: E string - ball to silk 37" total length 43" A string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 46" D string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 45.5" G string - ball to silk 37.5" total length 41.875" The gauges are 43, 56, 70, 100 I could keep a hold of them and throw them in a drawer until I get bitten by the flatwound bug again but I could do with realising some funds and it's better if they go to someone who'll use them. They're around £35 new, so how about £15 posted? An inexpensive way of getting a set of flatwound strings - if they fit your bass!
  4. Hi there For sale is one Boss LMB-3 Limiter/Enhancer. I don't have a pic of the actual one right now but here's the guy: In good condition, only a few scrapes here and there. No box but will be securely packed. I'd like [s]£30 plus postage[/s] £25 for it, postage included. Cheers Matt
  5. Is something on the board touching copper when it shouldn't when it's assembled? Does it work fine when the board is lifted free from the body and plugged in?
  6. I flirted with lipstick pickups before when I put one in a Squier Bronco I had at the time. I liked the tone but one on its own was always going to be a little low in the volume department. I've also toyed with the idea of trying out a Danelectro, but I'm not playing short scale basses any more, and their long scale ones always looked a bit meh to me. Until I stumbled upon this: the Hodad bass. Now this is a different proposition altogether. A lot of the Danelectro basics are there - lipstick pickups, semi hollow construction (plywood frame, masonite top and back, "binding" tape round the sides to hide everything) and quirky styling but it's a long scale neck, it has a bridge with individual saddles for more accurate intonation and there's a flexibility here - all 7 combinations of 3 pickups are available. The controls are as follows - there is a 6 way rotary switch (called a Select-O-Matic) which gives you the following settings - 1: neck/bridge, 2: neck, 3: neck/middle, 4: middle, 5: middle/bridge, 6: bridge. The switch next to it bypasses the rotary switch and gives you all three pickups. Finally there's a concentric volume/tone. I'm going to reserve judgement on the sound, when I got it the concentric pot was bust and I replaced it with what I had to hand (a 250k/500k) but the bass actually needs a 100k/1M pot which I have procured and will be fitting shortly. This may or may not affect the tone of the bass. Suffice to say there is a good variety of tones from the various settings. I'll update this later, perhaps with some sound clips. The finish is very hard to photograph, it changes colour from almost black to blue/purple sparkle. I've managed to get some blue out of it in this pic:
  7. Many quality alternatives exist. Assuming you're replacing a 5 screw Fender bridge - as well as the Schaller 2000 (also the Schaller 3D should fit a 5 hole Fender), other direct replacements include the Gotoh 201, the Hipshot A-style (Fender mount) and of course the Badass II.
  8. I seem to recall having teased everyone with talk of switches but only provided a spurious, blurry phone camera photo as proof. You would be well within your rights to disbelieve that. Well, it isn't the Loch Ness Monster, but it is a monster:
  9. [quote name='Bassmonkey' post='981478' date='Oct 8 2010, 11:28 AM']Hi buddy, bass looks ace. Just bought an Antoria LP and looking to replace the PUPs. Did your EMGs just fit the standard humbucker pup surrounds? The EMGs look great. Sound good? Andy[/quote] Sorry, I just saw this because I was trying to remember when I bought the bass. Yes, the EMG-HBs fit straight into the surrounds on my Epi Les Paul with no modification. As far as the sound goes, it's a very clean, modern sound as you would expect from EMGs. Quite unexpected considering what they're mounted in. I've recently been experimenting with taming the modern sound with a set of TI Jazz flatwound strings, but I might go back to rounds - it's just one paradox too many!
  10. [quote name='merello' post='1047795' date='Dec 4 2010, 09:41 PM']Can you turn up without a bass as I'm shy at my Yamaha 414? (Obviously I'd buy a ticket!)[/quote] There's no snobbery at the bash. Take it - I wouldn't mind a go on a Yamaha BB414, I bought a 614 off eBay once but it arrived damaged so it had to go back. Always liked the shape of them - a round, larger body like my Gibson G-3.
  11. Number 2 for me - I like that it doesn't cover too much of the bass and flows nicely into the chrome control plate.
  12. I'm thinking of hinting at one of those Planet Waves string winders with the built in cutter. A very comfy strap to help me bear the weight of my Gibson Victory Artist might be a good idea also. Maybe a gigbag - buying and selling of basses in the last year has left me with only 2 bags and 1 hard case for 6 basses.
  13. [quote name='sambassman' post='1044949' date='Dec 2 2010, 12:46 PM']would you say that the neck on a tribute has a similar feel to a stingray neck? theyre quite chunky[/quote] Can't tell you with any certainty on that one. What can I say with certainty? "Not a Jazz".
  14. I hope the USA guys can align tuner backs in a straight line, they're a bit off on my Tribute. It's just the little bits of attention to detail like that which you'd hope the extra wedge would cover. The only other difference is more choice of finishes on USA G&Ls, choice of neck profile (the Tribute L-2000 only offers a quite chunky P bass like affair, which is fine if you like that sort of thing), other misc options like body binding. Oh, and as far as I'm aware, you can't get a factory fretless Tribute.
  15. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
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  17. Today I have found that I find allegations of pre-amp noise in G&Ls almost as annoying as blanket "Gibson basses are crap" statements.
  18. I've used Artec SE-2 and SE-2A preamps before. Liked the SE-2, still got it in a project bass of mine. Unfortunately I've had bad experiences with the SE-2A (the concentric one) - had two of them crap out on me, both times the concentric pot has gone from working, producing horrible pops and thumps if you wiggle it.
  19. [quote name='jonthebass' post='1043553' date='Dec 1 2010, 11:23 AM']Also the difference in neck widths is only a few mm so surely that won't make that muck of a difference?[/quote] You would think that, but skinny necks feel weird to me to the point where I find it distracting. It's not simply width - I can get along fine with Jazz width necks (38mm at the nut) as long as they have some depth to them (like a Warwick Rockbass Corvette I had many moons ago - narrow but deep) - I can't explain it.
  20. Bah, out by 2! Well done though, and what a great idea.
  21. [quote name='Fozza' post='1041132' date='Nov 29 2010, 01:37 PM']Hi everyone, I'm new here so please be gentle with me! I'm about to embark on modding my Epiphone EB-3 (the limited edition short scale version) and I could do with some advice/tips/opinions. I've ordered a Dimarzio Model One to replace the stock neck humbucker and I'm interested in putting in a coil split so I can use either or both coils to give me more variety of tone. Has anyone ever done this? Is it worthwhile? Looking at the pinned thread on coil tapping at the top of this forum I assume I only need an on-on-on mini switch and wiring to do this (I'm not keen on pull-push knobs)? Daft question - I'm also replacing the pots as they're a bit 'all or nothing' at the moment. However, I can't seem to get the knobs off so I can have a look to see if they are solid or split shaft. I can't see any screws about to suggest they're solid but I've tugged as hard as I dare and I can't get the buggers to shift! Does anyone which would be OK? I assume split shaft but I'd like to be sure before ordering any. Last question (you'll be relieved to hear) is about the bridge pickup. I'm not a huge fan of the stock one. It's too honky and tinny for me. I've looked on the web but I haven't seen any direct replacements out there. I assume any possible replacement would have to be routed. I realise much of the sound of the pickup is due to it's placement right by the bridge but does anyone know of a reasonably priced alternative which will give me more punch and smoother highs? I was thinking off a Darkstar but it's a bit heavy for my pocket and seems overkill for such an inexpensive bass. Perhaps I'll get all the tones I need out of the coil-tapped Dimarzio? By the way, I won't be doing any of this work myself. It'll be going to a luthier. I'm rubbish at anything practical - playing bass included! Well, that's it. You know, I was happy enough leaving my basses stock until I started lurking on here! You guys have opened up quite a new world for me.[/quote] If you want to use the same knobs on the new pots then they will need to be split shaft for press fit knobs. To get stubborn knobs off pots I take an old t-shirt or other cotton cloth and slide the edge of it under the knob, I then wrap the t-shirt around the knob, keeping the edge under the pot, bunch the rest up above the knob and pull up on the shirt/cloth. If you've got the cloth under the knob all the way round it should pull off and it won't fly off across the room, it'll stay in the cloth. Howzat?
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