icastle

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1359580155' post='1957085'] I would get a little 1.0mm drill bit and drill the remaining bit then glue a tiny dowel of some sort into place then do the reverse to a piece that fits the knob or even the actual original bits if you have them? I tiny dab of araldite between the two and duct tape it all in place leaving it a good 24 hours and it will be as good as new! Good dose of servisol over everything and then keep a dust cover over it, I loved my old tnt [/quote] Well that'd certainly work. The only thing to be wary of is that on the other end of that broken plastic shaft is a small metal wiper assembly that rubs against the track. If the knob has been sheared off the front then there's a fair chance that the shaft is no longer as well attached to that wiper assembly as it originally was.

I'd just go for a couple of PCB mount pots. If they look about right in the picture then they'll probably fit - manufacturers tend to go for 'standard' components so they can source them from an alternative supplier later down the line if they need to. If they fit the holes then great, if they don't then I'd just hardwire them. If it's been sat around for a while then giving the non busted pots a squirt of switch cleaner wouldn't go amiss while you have the lid off...

[quote name='Charliegibbons' timestamp='1359561740' post='1956692'] Thanks for all the help! Some great things to look into. First things first, the second part of my question was easily remedies when I tested the brand new lead I bought and found it was defective so I went and got it replaced today. There's a nice little example of Occam's razor in action! [/quote] Excellent, you're half way there then.

I'd want to be a good violinist. At best all I can manage at the moment is to be a vile ianist...

Job interview this afternoon and then a frantic dash about to get to a mid week pub gig I'd forgotten about.

I use a 6 for some songs purely because it's easier to play the runs across the neck rather than whizzing up and down it like someone's found my Fast Forward button...

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1359538143' post='1956170'] To be fair to the rest of Fairport it was their sound guy that was being an arse about the rig they had hired off us. Though Allcock and the fiddle player were a bit stand-offish too. Dave was proper sound though. [/quote] Ah. There's nowt worse than two sound engineers having an argument, it makes PB v JB look positively tame.

[quote name='Urban Bassman' timestamp='1359533971' post='1956110'] Novel place to keep your plectrum..... [/quote] Just be thankful that he's not a flautist...

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1359510631' post='1956056'] All great palyers, largely simple but still great grooves that fit the bill perfectly. It's like they got the balance between artistic flair and what the song needs right on the money.. [/quote] I don't think it needs a complete wet fish, but I will toss a couple of pieces of lightly fried scampi in your general direction... Using a 2x15 cab and a different bass would give you a different sound perhaps, but if it's this ^ you're trying to emulate then it's more 'feel' driven than equipment driven.

It's very easy [u][b]ACTIVE[/b]:[/u] If your monitors have amplifiers built in (the give-away is that you need to plug them into the mains) then they are classed as active monitors and you need shielded cables (XLR - XLR or guitar leads). If you use unshielded speaker cables with active monitors then they'll buzz like hell. [b][u]PASSIVE:[/u][/b] If your monitors don't have amps built in then these would be classed as passive monitors and you want speaker cables (unshielded). If you use shielded cables with passive monitors there's a danger that you'll melt them and they'll short out.

A Warwick 210, a Warwick 115 and a Hartke 410 - I have a 'pick n mix' approach depending on what I'm doing at the time.

[quote name='Monckyman' timestamp='1359501854' post='1955976'] Had an Ohm120 head with a graphic on it. Nice amp. [/quote] They were groundbreaking in their day. The cabinets were CNC machined (cutting edge technology back then) and had a really smart grey textured paint finish. The grilles of the cabs were laser cut and the amps were all MOSFET (again, cutting edge back then).

Absolutely If I swapped kit with anyone on here and played around with the tone controls for 5 minutes, I'd still sound like me and vice versa. It's not just equipment, it's playing style, technique, feel and empathy for what you're playing.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1359494626' post='1955776'] If the crackle persists I'm afraid it could be any one of a number of caps or almost any joint inside the amp or even worn or dirty potentiometers. [/quote] If it were here in front of me then my first action would be to see if the crackling changed by rotating the controls during switch on, then try tapping the front panel during switch on and see if there's a particular place that makes a difference (gives you a clue where to look inside). While you're in there then giving the pots a squirt of switch cleaner wouldn't hurt - they've been sat there for the best part of 30 years after all. If that didn't solve it then having a physical look at the underside of the PCB looking for bad joints - especially the big capacitors by the power supply. That generation of amps had big (by todays standards) electrolytics and could exert a fair strain on the small solder connections causing them to crack. All this with the mains lead unplugged of course!

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1359494761' post='1955781'] And if it's a valve output, don't switch it on without the speaker connected! That's very likely to release the magic blue smoke. [/quote] It's not. All the OHM range were solid state.

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1359491800' post='1955709'] Yep, and always ready to give the soundcrew a ciggie and buy them a pint, no matter how tiny and crappy the gig is and how much of a bunch of twats the rest of Fairport are being about the sound.... (I speak from bitter experience) [/quote] Well I can't comment on the rest of them but I've sat in the bar chatting with Dave a few times before and\or after a gig and he's a really laid back guy with a great sense of humour... ... and yes, I do realise that he'd have to be laid back and have a sense of humour to chat with me before the rest of you say it...

Cor, I haven't seen OHM kit for about 30 years! To deal with the second part of your question first, either the output sockets on the amp have become loose (a guitar lead might have a different shape tip that just manages to touch the socket contact whereas your speaker lead tip might not) or your speaker cable is faulty. The first part of the query is a little harder to answer without the unit in front of me, but... 1) Is it just a THUMP when you hit the power switch? 2) Is it a prolonged series of crackles? If 1) then I seem to remember that OHM used a supressor cap wired to the mains switch - it needs replacing. If 2) then it could be anything from a dry joint on the PCB to a faulty capacitor in the power supply section of the amp - that'll probably require an amp tech to diagnose and replace.

[quote name='stoker' timestamp='1349294640' post='1824484'] Dave Pegg from Fairport Convention is a fantastic player as is Rick Kemp from Steeleye Span. I've always rated Stuart Fletcher (ex Seahorses) very highly too! [/quote] Dave Pegg - all round nice guy and a really solid player. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHRcPkp9nWs

Yep I'm on W8 but I've ditched the App screens and gone back to having a Desktop.

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1359456413' post='1954911'] I really have a problem with speed, esp. with my right hand. I've tried the starting slow and speeding up thing, with a metronome and all that, but I always seem to hit a wall that I just can't get past. [/quote] That's where the crossover between technique and musicality comes in. I can play at a fair old rate of knots (or should that be knotes?) but above a certain level I find the whole thing becomes a load of mushy nonsense that doesn't do justice to the tune. If I hit that point then all I do is fill in with a pattern of ghost notes or go back to the drawing board with a different time signature.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1359394346' post='1954100'] Here you go then, been back for a checkup today and remembered to get a picture of the xray for you all to see [/quote] Strewth mate, some b*st*rd's gone and stuck a bottle opener in your arm!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1359477823' post='1955353'] Nah - it's a known issue, and was logged a while ago. Chrome or Firefox is your friend.... [/quote] Ah, I must have missed that one.

I have an old HA3000 head that I use as a backup amp. No built in effects and just a simple 4 band parametric - very little to go wrong and no little sliders to break off... a good little workhorse.

Not a site issue as such, but I'm having problems with the Rich Text editor in IE10. If I want to use the Enter key I have to toggle over to the Plain Text editor to make it work. If I run the page in Compatibility Mode then it works fine, but takes the best part of a minute for any click to complete it's task. Am I missing something really obvious here?

The problem with these two amps is that they try to be everything to everyone and don't quite manage to do anything quite right. The amp modelling is vaguely reminiscent of what they are trying to achieve, but, for me at least, once I've found 'my sound' then I'm really not wanting to change it.* The built in effects are pretty much on a par with most built in effects, that's to say pretty OTT and with a modulation setting that someone else has decided it needs. The power output figures, as often cited on BassChat, are pretty much meaningless (however I can categorically state that the HD750 was significantly quieter than the old HA3000 head I use as a generic 'no frills' backup head). The overall build quality was reasonable but felt a little cheap in places. Having owned one (albeit for less than 48 hours) I have to say it would take a lot of persuasion to get me to use one again. * [size=3]Reminds me of a guitarist I once knew who was trying to decide between a Line6 or a Marshall.[/size] [size=3] He tried them out and duly arrived at the next rehearsal with a Line6.[/size] [size=3] He went through all the different amp\cab models and suddenly hit the one that sounded 'right'.[/size] [size=3] It was the Marshall setting... [/size]