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Matt P

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Everything posted by Matt P

  1. Matt P
    chipped in, it's stuff like this that just reinforces my belief that bass players are the best people in the world. Matt
  2. Matt P
    Normally green would be my last choice for an instrument but this bass is just perfect looking, such a great spec and look, i'll definitely be buying a ticket or two. just out of interest what strings are fitted? Matt
  3. Matt P
    I did get some replies over in the Double bass section and the advice was either a SM57 or equivalent wrapped in a towel and wedged under the tailpiece pointing at the bridge or a cardoid of some sort on a stand in front of the bass. I ended up going for the Rode M3, on a stand about 6-8 inches in front and slightly above the bridge, it seemed to work well enough, i could hear the bass from the back of the (smallish) hall, it was a 4 piece band (Guitar, Violin, accordion and double bass, with a mic for calling and another for singer songwriter spots. It wasn't a high volume gig either which helps. the guitar and violin had pickups and i used another Rode M3 in front of the Accordion which also seemed to work fairly well. I wasn't there for the actual performance as it was a small private party but from the reports i got back it went well and everyone was happy.
  4. Matt P
    Just a quick post gig report, went with a rode m3 on a stand in front of the bass, the player had borrowed the bass from somewhere so that seemed like the better option. It sounded pretty good thought the pa and luckily it was a small band as the hall wasn't that big either. Every one had a good time and I was gifted a very nice bottle of wine which made my evening very pleasant indeed. Thank you for all the advice. Matt
  5. Matt P
    I'll be going along for the setup and soundcheck but after that i'll be heading home as i'm not part of the band and it's a small wedding so i'd be pretty conspicuous (also i've got a kitchen to start painting tomorrow afternoon) the desk will be sitting next to the guitarist so if there are any issues he should be able to sort it fairly quickly, they don't want any foldback so that will hopefully help with reducing the chances of feedback, i might set up a second mic on a stand as well and balance between the two, the player might also object to the mic in a towel method so a mic on a stand might end up the answer anyway. Thank you for all the suggestions and tips, I'll try and report back once it's all over. Matt
  6. Matt P
    the Audix i5 is very similar to an sm57, i'll pack a small towel in the kit, that might be the best solution. i'm assuming you aim it up at the bridge? matt
  7. Matt P
    I might be in the minority as a PA owner but i don't actually have an SM58 in my collection, the mic's I've got available are a mix of mics belonging to bandmates (who also part own the PA) and the ones I've bought for recording over the years. I don't sing myself and if i did I'd probably buy anything except the SM58 (I just like being different/difficult) Matt
  8. Matt P
    I've posted this in the Double bass section but was suggested to post here too, I'm Hoping to tap into the combined wisdom of the forum here. I'm loaning my PA out to a ceilidh band for a wedding gig tomorrow (Saturday 24th May) and one of the instruments is a double bass, I don't believe that they have a pickup or an onboard mic fitted so my plan is to put a mic in front of it and hope for the best. I have a selection of mics available to me but i'm not sure which would be most suitable, the setup and soundcheck time is extremely short so i'm not going to have time to experiment. from the list of mics below which one would be the most suitable and what position/direction would be best? Red5 Audio - RV6/RV8/RV10 Rode - M3 Audix D6/i5 SE - X1 AKG - P4/D5 Shure - SM58 Beta Audio_technica - ATM10a this is the total list of mics that I can lay my hands on before the gig so i've got to pick one, so which one would you use? i'll have 1 hour to get into the hall, set up, and soundcheck before the wedding party arrives so I'm trying to be as prepared as possible. I've already got Di boxes and preamps on hand and all the mics are ready to go into the car. Thanks Matt
  9. Matt P
    thanks @Beedster the band in question seems to be a very casual affair, just paging at small community events and the usual PA seems to be a very budget setup, I think this is a wedding for a friend or similar and the PA owner isn;t around so that's why they're using my kit (the guitarist is my best friend and also the guitarist and frontman in our band) I've been told that the double bass will need a mic so was planning to have a solution in place just in case, i'll also have a Di box/preamp on hand, we've got 1 hour to get into the hall, set up and soundcheck and be all ready for the wedding party so I want to be as prepared as possible I'll post this over in the PA section as well. Thanks
  10. Matt P
    Hoping to tap into the combined wisdom of the forum here. I'm loaning my PA out to a ceilidh band for a wedding gig tomorrow (Saturday 24th May) and one of the instruments is a double bass, I don't believe that they have a pickup fitted so my plan is to put a mic in front of it and hope for the best. I have a selection of mics available to me but i'm not sure which would be most suitable, the setup and soundcheck time is extremely short so i'm not going to have time to experiment. from the list of mics below which one would be the most suitable and what position/direction would be best? Red5 Audio - RV6/RV8/RV10 Rode - M3 Audix D6/i5 SE - X1 AKG - P4/D5 Shure - SM58 Beta Audio_technica - ATM10a this is the total list of mics that I can lay my hands on before the gig so i've got to pick one, so which one would you use? Thanks Matt
  11. Matt P
    If this were me i'd be buying the Sessioncakes for sale in the classifieds, they will give you the most versatile setup and each will work as a solo practice tool as well, for 20 quid each i'd consider it a no-brainer. (i have no connection to the seller other than buying a bag from them a few years back) SC-01 SC-02 Matt
  12. Matt P
    getting the bar in via the f-holes shouldn't be too difficult if you use the string method (similar to getting pots and jack sockets into hollow bodied guitars,) drop a string into the hole in the neck pocket and then fish it out through the f-hole, then run it through the threaded hole in the bar and tie a stop knot, a string through each M8 hole should allow you to pull the nutplate into position so it can be fixed with the m5 screw. of course if the profile isn't nice and square inside then the block becomes more difficult to shape, but once the block is in place you shouldn't ever need to remove it so the access panel wouldn't be required. Engineering runs in our family too, my Paternal grandfather was an engineer and my brother was also an engineer before he moved into computing. (the other side of the family is all fairly practical too, mostly in various manufacturing industries.) I've married an engineer and our son is showing pretty good technical abilities at age 8. Matt
  13. Matt P
    I'm running a pair of Barefaced Midget G2 cabs with my Markbass head (F1) and have been for ages now, maybe 10 years+ ? (the cabs were bought new and are from what i believe to be the last batch of G2 cabs built.) I thought I'd swap the head out for something else but I've just found that the combination i have sounds right to me.
  14. Matt P
    Hopefully this makes it clear enough (you'd never guess I worked as a draughtsman for 18 months!) Matt
  15. Matt P
    I've been watching this and am impressed by your skills and craftsmanship, I'm no luthier but as a mechanical engineer i thought I'd offer some ideas as an alternative to the spike nuts. I've used the spike nuts before and have never been impressed with how they hold into the wood when the bolt is removed (or the quality of the metal but that might just be the cheap ones I've encountered.) for this situation the standard engineering solution where i work (engineering R+D department) would be a nut plate, for this particular case a small plate of steel with 2x M8 tapped holes would be used, 10mm thick by about 20 wide would be plenty, and to hold it in place a third smaller tapped hole (M5 is probably enough) could be added to hold it in place when the neck is removed (a recessed bolt in the neck pocket of the body) for materials I'd go with mild steel and grade 8,8 bolts, a coat of paint on the steel would be enough to keep corrosion at bay, I'd avoid Stainless steel as it is prone to galling and difficult to drill and tap compared with mild steel. i will try and make a sketch to show the arrangement Matt
  16. Matt P
    i went for a cheap option and threw a harley benton one into a Thomman order, works great though and as i also work on acoustics the 2 different heights are useful This One Matt
  17. Matt P
    I remember swapping out the screws on my Terror Bass head, i think they were M3 but unfortunately i don't have the amp anymore to check, from memory they were about 8mm long or so, i fitted hex socket head screws as that was what i had to hand. Matt
  18. Matt P
    Thomann have a few options at different prices, we bought one of the cheaper ones for our drummer as a gift, mostly as a joke but i'd expect it to make an appearance live at some point. Washboards at Thomann Matt
  19. Matt P
    @Ruarl The first prototype is still under construction so you're not too late, I believe that the prototype will be out in the wild for testing at some point so hopefully there will be opportunity for people to try it out and give some feedback before that production amps are built, I don't think these will be limited either as i'd imagine that Martin will be building them to order as i think he does for other amps, but as Stoneham is a small one-man (i believe) operation there might be a waiting list. Matt
  20. Matt P
    I know it's been a while since there was an update on this but i was in Martin's shop today dropping a Trace Head off for a service and asked about the 100w head. Martin has been moving to a new premises recently and is in the process of getting it properly set up, he said that once he was settled in then he'll be getting back on the 100W project as he wants to get it finished and into our sweaty paws. from the number of amps that i saw in for service today i'm guessing he has been fairly busy with the day to day repair work (on previous occasions i've had to wait a week or two before dropping amps off for service as there has been a backlog.) Matt
  21. Matt P
    all my levy's straps are the suede/suede ones with minimal padding so they're very soft and supple from the beginning, I think they're all 2.5" wide and are the usual pick for all but my heaviest basses (that 77 in particular). I've not noticed any difference in the length adjustment between the Levy's ladder type and the ladder type from, Leathergraft or Heistercamp (i prefer the ladder type as I don't like metal buckles near delicate finishes.) Matt
  22. Matt P
    I didn't know this, I'll be watching the website for a future bargain! Matt
  23. Matt P
    I have a Heistercamp as well and they are fantastic, I didn't suggest them as the prices are above what the OP was suggesting as the top budget. the one i have was a present from my wife and is exclusively used with my best acoustic guitar. Matt
  24. Matt P
    whilst i did recommend leathergraft most of my straps are the suede Levy's ones, some of them are over 20 years old and still going strong. Don't totally rule out leathergraft though as some of their designs are available in an XL version which maxes out to 60" the comfy definitely does. here
  25. Matt P
    I don't recognise the logo and none of those markings match those on my Levy's straps. For a good value wider strap I'd suggest something from Leathergraft, they're nicely made and very good value, i think the entire range is within your budget, i'm using one for my '77 p-bass and it helps enormously with the 11lb. https://leathergraft.co.uk/ Mine is the Pro deluxe and it's very well made with good padding and tidy workmanship. HERE Matt
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