Ou7shined

[quote name='mcnach' post='1178964' date='Mar 27 2011, 11:10 PM']...I'm not switching Stingray to P-bass, by the way. But yes, you'll hear aaaaall about it [/quote] That's good to hear. From what I've seen so far it is one of the sexiest basses I've ever seen.... blonde and simple. (Please don't go filling her with tronics she should remain a simple gal)

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='1178864' date='Mar 27 2011, 10:03 PM']mwah...wonder what all the fuss is about..... hee hee[/quote] Cat's owtta the bag.

[quote name='Gust0o' post='1178806' date='Mar 27 2011, 09:27 PM']... Designed by Sue Ryder and Fender, and signed by the great dame herself! [/quote] Or...

Hmmm. Boy meets OLP, boy falls head over heels in love with OLP, boy professes love to whole internet, boy meets Stingray, boy falls in love with Stingray. Boy meets Sue Ryder, boy falls head over heels in love with Sue Ryder, boy professes love to whole internet, boy meets Fender P..... I think we're starting to see a pattern here. Congrats Jose. I'm sure we'll hear aaaaall about it once it arrives.

[quote name='kingofthestuntmen' post='1178679' date='Mar 27 2011, 08:08 PM']£25.00...[/quote] Good shout.

Before we pass judgement, how much did he pay?

The clue's kind of in the pictures.

It's the sensible thing to do with a battered guitar you want rid of. Batter it worse, then advertise it for more than a mint one would get. "As i said this is a professional relic, buy a guy who relics guitars for a living not a dodgy electric sander hatchet job" Ignoring the wrong use of the word "buy", it's reassuring to know that it wasn't some dodgy electric sander hatchet job but done professionally by a guy who relics guitars for a living. No ones ever heard of this guy who relics guitars for a living but he certainly doesn't use electric sander hatchets... whatever they are.

[quote name='hellothere' post='1178285' date='Mar 27 2011, 01:05 PM']I picked up a bass from around an hour and a half from where I lived and after arriving back home with it I realised there was a buzz on the 12th fret and only on that fret, each day the buzz has got less and less so far. Is this from a change in climate and humidity? And is there a chance it will go away completely without me having to fiddle with it?[/quote] Give a bass at least a day to setting in to new surroundings. How does your 13th fret look compared to 12 and 14? Stick a flat edge on it an see if it rocks. If it's ok, tightening your t/r should eliminate what just sounds like the relief being out a tad.

I agree TI's do flop about a fair old bit.

Can you get a straight edge that runs the length of the neck that you can track from top to bottom (E to G) to scan for dips? I'm not saying the neck is crook, it's just something to tick off the check list. Aslo how does it look looking down it for a twist (the t/r should only be adjusting top or bottom not lateral flex)?

[quote name='Beedster' post='1177567' date='Mar 26 2011, 07:51 PM']Pre-EB Stingray. The logical successor to the Precision....[/quote] Have you tried an early G&L L-1000? The [b]actual[/b] sucsessor to the Precision.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1177539' date='Mar 26 2011, 07:18 PM']I have to say, I really like the concept of the pup positioning on that bass. You'd have to pay me a LOT of money to have one in that colour though. How close does the P pup mimick a proper P? Does it make much difference that it's the other way around (to be honest, that always made more sense to me anyway as the D and G strings are inherently more trebly and moving the pup away from the bridge would help equal them out with the lower strings). And of course, does it do a proper MM?[/quote] What colour do you want yours in then? It sounds like a nice genuine P - there's no mistaking that it is an active P though opposed to a passive woody P. The new position does offer a very even response over the strings, whether it makes up for any deficiencies of the trad style, for once I'd be loathed to rock the boat and just let the ear of the beholder make up their mind. The MM sounds very authentic especially up the top end (it is a genuine 'ray pup after all) but as a bit of a Stingray purist I'd have to concede that the SD pre operates quite differently - it has a more extended range and as a result with this pup combo the bass could split a liver if you so wished.

5 Pingrays. Reason - bitchin' !!

Ostentatious.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1177107' date='Mar 26 2011, 12:07 PM']No apology necessary! FWIW that particular grammatical cock-up is top of my personal red-mist list, and when eventually it becomes the accepted way of expressing this particular phrase (as it inevitably will) I'll pick up my chainsaw, don my easy-wipe goggles & go out and kill, indiscriminately & relentlessly. That'll make it better. J.[/quote] It 's the whole bought/brought thing with me. I can help switching off to people that do it. It's just plain ig'nant.

[quote name='BottomE' post='1176789' date='Mar 26 2011, 01:02 AM']You lost me when you said logarithmic but i appreciate your reply. Not even owning or ever using a soldering iron i am a bit stuck as to what to do next. That said i'll give it a go if i can find the right parts but i am a bit wary of screwing up a lovely bass.[/quote] Basically what he's saying is that you get 2 (for the sake of argument) types of pot, one with a steadily increasing effect as you turn it and the other with most of it's effect toward one end of the sweep - like what you are describing with yours - although you would expect to have more of a degree of control. The wrong value of pot can make it seem more like an on/off switch in terms of control. We are presuming that the guy who put your pups back in didn't change your pots (why would he unless you asked him to?) therefore if you hadn't noticed this lack of control before then it must be down to something else. Perhaps a clear pic of the wiring and pots may help. Also if you can make out the numbers on you cap and pots it would be handy to know too. It might be daunting to consider having a go at tweaking it yourself but believe me you won't kill it, even if you went in there and ripped out all the wires it's all fixable. These sorts of jobs are equivalent to changing a wheel or topping up the oil on a car and as a musician you really aught to be as familiar with them as you would a expect a car owner to be able to change a flat tyre.

Dougie : As a finishing touch I'd darken up that very brown fingerboard to make it fit in with your colour scheme - it'll show of those strings better too. You might be able to do it with multiple applications of oil or conditioning wipes but a safer bet that you can get it right first time would be to stain it.

Fantastic blind test. Someone even said bass 1 was a super jazz. It's no surprise to me that I chose the expensive one though. For my ears it has more bite and this split harmonic thing (I wish I knew the technical term) that you get with perfect pickup positioning that I love. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1176276' date='Mar 25 2011, 06:13 PM']..... both pups, fingered would be my choice ....[/quote] How many forums do you get to say that on?

Sweet.

[quote name='Legion' post='1176190' date='Mar 25 2011, 05:09 PM'][b]Nice idea but the D and G are intonated correctly and are close to the end of the (longer) screws that they already have.[/b] Might drop Howard a mail as suggested...[/quote] Ach well, worth a pop.

Make this a proper poll to stop folk choosing both.

If you have basic soldering skills swap out the cap 1st. It's the only thing capable of affecting the tone in a passive circuit. Next would be the pot but only if you suspect that it is faulty - it can be checked with a multimeter. After that it's the pups.

I think it's a 3/32" Allen key - but I need to go check.