Ou7shined

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1357698' date='Aug 31 2011, 04:36 PM']Looking at the Rob Allen reminds me that plenty of 60's basses had those solid alloy bridges ... and crap intonation to go with it. The pickup really doesn't look like a comfortable place to rest your thumb either. Different strokes, eh?[/quote] Correctly installed that bridge will give you no problems at all. But yeah Diff'rent Strokes.

[quote name='Paul S' post='1357697' date='Aug 31 2011, 04:36 PM']Thanks. I need some finer wet/dry then And, no, I don't know the difference between drying and curing.... quick edit - label says touch dry 20 mins, recoat between 20 mins and 1hr, fully hardened after 24hrs.[/quote] You see where it says "fully hardened after 24hrs"..... that's a lie. If you start strapping your hardware to it the next day, it will sink into your hard work leaving indentations and raised bits where it comes up around the outside. Curing time is the time it takes for this not to happen. I can leave my work for up to 2 weeks after the final polish to cure fully.

[quote name='charic' post='1357678' date='Aug 31 2011, 04:11 PM']That solid 4 reminds me of [url="http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.zikinf.com/_gfx/matos/dyn/large/pedulla-rapture_7.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.zikinf.com/materiel/photos.php%3Fm%3D7936%26p%3D6&h=540&w=415&sz=67&tbnid=R1IqxlBhEbwtSM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=69&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dpedulla%2Brapture%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=pedulla+rapture&docid=U0v_MmWkMpb6SM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=yE5eTsTHLsel8QPopbifAw&ved=0CC8Q9QEwAQ&dur=355"]Pedulla Rapture[/url][/quote] Nah the solid 4 is much nicer. The proportions are very sympathetic to the design.

You should be using wet and dry from your first coat of non primer onwards. By the time I'm at my final few coats of paint I'm at 1000 grade. Then by the clear coat I'm at 1200. The last coat is rubbed back with 1500 and buffed out with a cutting compound. You should leave each coat to dry for as long as you can stand... unless the label states otherwise. Chances are that with this B&Q type stuff you are using, it will be the latter or within a stated time. Don't forget curing time. There is a huge difference between curing time and drying time.

That Solid 4 is rather tasty.

PMd

If you are talking about whether or not the holes will line up, then you might want to contact the dealer. Chances are that they won't and a bit of skilled work may need to be carried out to make them fit. Looking at them, the shafts seem a little short. This may cause problems if your bass is designed for longer shafts where the machine head holes are further away from the top edge. Other than that they look kinda good for the price.

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='1357406' date='Aug 31 2011, 12:30 PM']Painfully true. There's a lot of people out there who'll throw money at "boutique" cables. Makes you wonder when we'll see the first boutique plectrum selling for £50.[/quote] I've done it myself. Completely QED'd my hi-fi out (speakers and connectors) all at great expense (well more than I can justify). I can't tell the difference.... but maybe... just maybe... one day someone will come round mine, hear some tunes and say "Hey mate, nice open sound-stage you have here. What cables are you using?" and I'll be ready with an answer that will be met with a raised eyebrow and a nod of approval. It'll be soooo worth it.

[quote name='apa' post='1357482' date='Aug 31 2011, 01:24 PM']Is she hot? A[/quote] This post, for the win.

Because people have expendable income to waste on stuff that makes them feel good about their kit. I 25 years I've never felt the need to tell anyone the make of my cables - I bet the guys in the band of the guy who wins it will all know before the week is out that he has a Pete Cornish Silver Signature cable.

Firstly you hardly ever want the neck relief to be straight. Secondly take it to your local tech and get him to set it up perfectly for you.

How's your pup height?

Pics?

[quote name='Davout' post='1356727' date='Aug 30 2011, 07:42 PM']If you want a relatively reasonable priced P. Bass that is good quality & plays well. check out the Squier 'Classic Vibe' series. I have recently bought the '50s model in Butterscotch Blonde in this range & it is really nice, & [b]for a bass with one pickup & a tone & volume control it has a tremendous tonal range[/b]. There is also a '60s model too. They are in the £300 range, but of course prices vary according to which retailer's website you visit. Tony.[/quote] This statement doesn't sit well with me. You hear this type of comment very often here on BC. I get what you are alluding to mate, but to state that a single coiled bass (with a singularly voiced sound that is instantly recognisable as such) with nothing more than a treble bleed for tone manipulation as having "a tremendous tonal range" is hyperbole in the extreme - I do take into consideration it's your "honeymoon period" though. I have 2 custom built examples of this style of bass. They are fantastic but I recognise their limits - of course their limits are their strengths. You wouldn't play Fear Factory on a '51 P but in the right settings these basses are king. But however you look at it, they have a distinct single coil tone, what they don't have is a tremendous tonal range... actually they don't have much of a tonal range at all... unless of course your Squire somehow surpasses the one I built for myself and my Shuker.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1356049' date='Aug 30 2011, 10:59 AM']Not sure on the TRB but the EB may be able to achieve anything from £700 to £850. However for whatever reason second hand buyers are a bit anal about stuff being all original, you'll get a lot of interest in the neck on it's own, but OG EB ray bodies can be difficult to shift for a good price as it's hard to get second hand necks. Although there are a few people like ou7shined that pickup MM replacement stuff all the time asking as te price is right.[/quote] Yep I agree. It could be a hard one to sell but if the right buyer came along then you'd get 800-850 for it. I think you'd probably be better off opening up your sale to a wider pubic than just BC on this one though as PB said enthusiasts are less likely to go for a modded Stingray when there are plenty original ones to choose from. If you found a 'ray neck for it then you'd have no problem shifting both it and the Status neck. Regarding the SUB5, 400-450 would be a reasonable price... and as anyone who knows their Musicmans knows the SUB 5 is more of a 'ray 5 than the 'ray 5 is - lots of bang for your buck there.

If that's from the '70's then so am I.... I wish.

Had a wee change of heart there Moos3h?

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1355429' date='Aug 29 2011, 05:23 PM']It looks quite nice but I doubt anyone would part with more than about £75-85 for it IMO as thats what a standard Squier p fetches. Does it play well and sound good if it does keep it, if not either mod it or sell it anyway [/quote] +1

[quote name='Johnston' post='1355412' date='Aug 29 2011, 05:08 PM']The JSH logo it's a shop or something isn't it?[/quote] Yep, John Hornby Skewes. I can't see how a distributors badge is going to add a ton on the price.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1355223' date='Aug 29 2011, 01:48 PM']... for me it's much easy to get a more sifter tone by playing softer with fingers up at the neck than cutting treble for example.[/quote] I do this too. I don't think it is a conscious choice though, it's just something that has developed over the years.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1355233' date='Aug 29 2011, 02:01 PM']I've always considered 'tone' to mean timbre, just electric musicians using the wrong words, along with using tab instead of notation, and tone actually means a note or interval (as in tuning down a tone).[/quote] Should I rename the tone knob on my stereo to pitch?