Ou7shined

You know, in the back of my mind I knew you were talking about my Pingray. All I can say is that the Delanos I'm using are astounding and I'm very happy with the SD pre - although oddly I just keep it set in a fixed position and use the pup blend to find the tone I'm after. The other bass I have that produces a fantastic "rawk" tone has J Fralins and an OBP-3 <- highly recommended combo.

It's suddenly gone.

It's got to be stolen or a scam.

Your post is a little confusing. What bass is this going in?

Don't slacken the strings unless you think there is a chance that the guitar will be exposed to extremes if heat or moisture while in storage.

Most dynamic? Musicman. Single most useful? Humbucker in P position. Heaven? Both.

Back in the day we were like.... Then the big boys nicked our toy truck off us, smashed the wheels off and give it us back. Now were all like.....

3 coats is only about a 1/3 of the way there. Keep spraying and rubbing back. It's very important not to put too much on each time though as that's what makes the edges curl.

I personally like to nitro lacquer a neck to seal it then rub it back to a satin finish.

[quote name='newbass1000' post='1353225' date='Aug 27 2011, 12:55 AM']From the sounds of it somewhere near the nut[/quote] Yep it's your tr.

[quote name='newbass1000' post='1353221' date='Aug 27 2011, 12:49 AM']The only problem on it is a rather annoying buzz when I play open A.[/quote] Where is the buzz coming from? There seems to be something spooky about 440hz that sets trussrods off rattling. Could it be this?

[quote name='newbass1000' post='1353212' date='Aug 27 2011, 12:26 AM']I was considering a decent set up, would I be better off going just to a music store, or someone independent?[/quote] In my experience your bog standard guitar shop will offer a less than perfect set-up performed by someone who most likely doesn't give two hoots if you walk away with a bass that's set-up to it's optimal best or not... but there's an ex guitar shop owner on here who gets livid with me for uttering such blasphemy. Never the less, my advice is to find out from the guys on here who the best independent bloke in your area is and go to him. He will also be ale to advise you better than your friend has.

If it's the best bass you've ever owned why change it? Does your friend know what sound you want, or is he just bombarding you with options. If he's suggesting SD Basslines, I'm presuming it's for the hotter pups. Do you think your bass sounds weak at all? Is there a problem with the bridge? Is it misaligned or faulty or anything? Unless there is something wrong, a new bridge probably won't improve anything tonally and will be an unnecessary "upgrade". Changing the p/g is a nice easy way to personalise a bass. Maybe some new knobs too. But if you are happy with the sound and feel don't go mucking about with it just because someone says so. You'd be far better off buying some nice strings and putting your cash toward a decent set-up by someone who knows what they are doing.

[quote name='silddx' post='1352575' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:23 PM']The neck is very light though. Which gives credence to Martin's low density theory. The fact it is three pieces may be a cost cutting thing.[/quote] Alan (ACG) once told me he'd seen a whole neck ruined by a single sliver of veneer which wouldn't behave. Laminates are no more immune to warping than a one piece.

[quote name='silddx' post='1352535' date='Aug 26 2011, 03:03 PM']Basically what Martin said. He could take the fretboard off and insert carbon rods. But he said it isn't really worth the expense. He recommended someone who could make me a neck of the right dimensions to fit, probably about £250 opposed to £400 for Martin to make me one.[/quote] Yep. Good advice.

Yeah if it keeps happening then it's a dud. Like anything it can be fixed... but at a price.

The big test is to re-set and see if it happens again.

Strange. I wonder if it's your t/r vibrating at a certain frequency.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1350739' date='Aug 24 2011, 09:06 PM']I'd have either but I just find most passive basses lacking something.[/quote] I have a couple of G&L passives you should meet sometime Pete.

[quote name='stringintheshade' post='1350686' date='Aug 24 2011, 08:28 PM']Thanks Lfalex, that's a pretty good overview. @ Ou7shined but surely you can boost & cut frequencies at your amp just as well ? It's just a couple of steps away & no PP3 to die on you or leak horribly?[/quote] That's fine if all your sound is coming from an amp.

All people are different. Some like to plug and play and not worry too much of the nuances of "tone", while others enjoy an understanding of "tone" and like to play about with it and use it as an expression of the music. Sometimes a passive bass can fall into the hands of an aural-ist but although being slightly limited by it's passive tone, fits the players criteria perfectly well. Sometimes an active circuit is added to correct or give headroom to an unenjoyable tone (often with less than spectacular results), sometimes it is added to enhance an already good tone and sometimes it is there by design. Sometimes the active circuit is taken away entirely because the player doesn't grasp the concept of their active circuit. The most fundamental thing to remember though is that with a passive circuit the rule of thumb is that you can only remove frequencies (tone) but with an active circuit you can boost and cut frequencies (as defined by the circuit) giving the player an expanded pallet to play with. I like basses which can do both.

Bought a project guitar off Will. Fantastic guy to deal with - plenty good comms. Recommended. Cheers mate. Rich.

A lot of spunky love in this thread. Am I detecting another case of Sue Ryder syndrome?