Mr. Foxen

Basically, the more control you give people, the more they'll screw it up. Its why sound engineer is a job. And why forums are covered in 'I cut all my mids but I still can't hear myself, do I need another kilowatt in my rig?' posts.

I don't recall seeing much hate for Ashdown here. Ashdown do turn out bunches of cheap amps, they have Ashdown on them, they are just as responsible for them as they are for the expensive endorser models. Orange are definitely overpriced rubbish aside from the Bass Terror though.

How much loss is there in that circuit? Would think you'd need a bunch of makeup gain to be viable.

[quote name='polyrythmmm' timestamp='1367924002' post='2070993'] Apparent volume of tube watts versus SS, and how this manifests itself in the arena of driver calculations... ? ... [/quote] Watts are watts, voltage is voltage, so apparent volume doesn't figure into driver calculation. The reason valve rigs sound louder than SS for a given wattage is down to bandwidth limiting (less lows so less power needed, leaving it for the important stuff for hearing), compression (very top peaks are lower, so louder on average), and harmonic distortion (added harmonic content adds impression of loudness, and bigness to the sound without needing more power).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181136081961

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1367855096' post='2070254'] I fail to see the problem with using a CNC router. Far more accurate than a man would ever be. [/quote] It's the calling it handmade part that is the problem.

Two teaspooons is cheaper.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1367851865' post='2070220'] [url="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-22421185"]http://www.bbc.co.uk...onment-22421185[/url] [/quote] I could make a gun comparable to that on a Myford lathe available on ebay for £4-600. I wouldn't bother because I can buy a deactivated proper gun and use basic metalworking to reactivate it, so really, not so much difference happens there, 3d printer is pretty expensive in comparison.

When they do, they'll still call them handmade, like they do their CNC routed basses.

Sorting it out as an acoustic bass would probably be the more practical project. How suitable an adjustable bridge is as a plan depends on how high the strings are over the body, there probably won't be space, and then its reset the neck territory.

Its the flat surfaces of those models that the construction flaws show up on, you wouldn't stand for saw marks showing on a £200 bass, why would you on a £2000 one?

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1367742448' post='2068829'] Like all new technology it still needs some work to be really useful. At the moment most 3D printers are quite low resolution so you can see the lines of the layers that build up the shape. [/quote] I'd not blame the resolution of the printer as much as the laziness of the construction. Routers aren't high resolution devices, even the cheapest Chinese P bass copy gets a sanding down before finishing.

Subthumper on here who is Justin at Heron Music. http://www.heronmusic.co.uk/

Mate of mine was gigging his 1964 50w bassman with original cab until 10 years ago.

Lower tuned cabs, instead of a high tuned one for a midbass hump, now the trend is actual low end extension.

70s roadies out there unable to remember why they can't walk. Cab is probably easier to handle than an SVT8x10, 1/8 as many speakers to lug.

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1367590652' post='2067344'] there's 25 of them here (us shipping only though): [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-pc-Lot-of-Vintage-1H-Inductors-for-Amps-EQs-NOS-/261170832659?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccefea513#ht_499wt_786"]http://www.ebay.co.u...13#ht_499wt_786[/url] [/quote] If you are getting those, I'd be interested in some. Says ship worldwide to me. Just whoever wrote the description has a pretty tenuous grasp of the English language.

Horn isn't long enough to lose all the highs, just need to use bit of treble boost to get there.

Can use it through a guitar cab too, just don't try and eq it to sound like a bass. The output transformer will shave off the subs, so you'll have to make a special effort to break speakers. It will just sound guitary that way. Like Lemmy.

Be better if they were gigging.

[URL=https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ampstack/351966881575839?fref=ts][IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1556_zpscaaa13be.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Sound is subjective is pretty much all of the answer. I'm still fighting with an ebanol board from a tech point of view, it won't come off and I'm not sure it will plane off safely.

Using technology to make cheap things expensive. Good work. Maybe wait until the economics are right would be better plan. These are effectively skeleton guitars with fancier attachments, expensive novelties. Much more interesting potential to 3d printing out there.

http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/vintage-extremely-rare-acoustic-control-corporation-370-head-and-301-cab/1016732950 Pretty killer vintage big rig.Just got rid of my 18" folded horn rig, still tempted, but more money than I have to play with.

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1367349292' post='2064584'] Ive often wondered if there is a system for choosing strings that will stay 'as new' for the longest playing period. Is there a choice of string wind, or metal that truly makes the difference irrespective of brand? [/quote] What truly makes the difference is how you like your strings sounding. If you like a dark sound, flats or tapewounds are going to tend to sound about like they do new for ages. I like Elixirs, they stay bright for ages, and don't squeak so much if you run a finger along them changing position, meaning you can use more treble boost.