Mr. Foxen

Is that a low passed output? Find out where the low pass is, get a subwoofer suited to that range. No point in low passing into a cab designed for fullrange. Really, high passing a cab so they don't interfere with the lows is the better way if you insist on mixing cabs.

[quote name='Tweedledum' timestamp='1368381610' post='2076343'] (the 120 Mark 4 I had awhile ago was a noise monster). [/quote] The noise in them can be sorted, its a combination of old caps, degrading resistors and dirty earth connections. Sorted about a dozen now.

Oh yeah, this thing will do the louder part: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshall-2001-all-valve-tube-amplifier-400W-vintage-1980s-6550-kt88-/140975222474?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item20d2c72eca Lighter not so much.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1368395868' post='2076663'] Ha ha, know where you're coming from Steve. I love the Boogie but don't need 200+ watts of tubes. I've really struggled to find a decent low power all-tube setup, they're either too small, like the Ashdown LB, or too big like most of the Ampeg, Mesa etc. I'm pretty convinced it's going to have to be a B-15 eventually. [/quote] Loads of 100w valve amps going, just get one with decent sized transformers and a recap.

Treble roll off is the taking the nasty off the top of fuzz. The tone/feel is distortion and compression (compresion is also a form of distortion). The VT covers both of those, it simulates the power section too, you don't have to use it driven, jsut a lot of the knob sweep is degrees of driven, don't be afraid to have it down.

What music do they listen to? No good making sounds that don't sound like the music that you are interested in. Steel strung and a good set up if going that way, proper set up means easy playing, most beginner steel strungs are dreadful..

[quote name='Ashdown Engineering' timestamp='1368267261' post='2075059'] We do not give gear to artists... We may loan the odd rig here and there when required but generally speaking if someone wants to use Ashdown and be an artist we insist they put their hand in their pocket. [/quote] Could ya send me one of the big valve jobs for techy review?

Manufacturers are kind of stuck with the need to provide eq to people who don't know how to operate it, hence the flat setting not being in the middle, so their amp has 'a sound'.

Clean cab, Sansamp VT, power amp. SVT sound, portable, limitless headroom as determined by the cab and amp part. I'd suggest a Barefaced cab opf appropriate size and a Peavey IPR power amp to go with the VT.

Not all Ampeg 8x10s are the same, they changed to dark speakers to boast bigger numbers at one point, end up with a dark sounding cab, still with no lows from being small and sealed. Plus the sensitivity is the same as a Barefaced Compact, and that is pretty lame. Basically, any sealed cab is not going to have much lows, just be sure when you say 'lows', you don't actually mean 'midbass' or 'low mid'.

Sounds like you don't like the cabs. Go for neutral sounding cab and use the eq for tone is the way if you like using EQ. Should never be fighting cabs with EQ. Cabs with a sound are for when you don't have/like using EQ.

If the preamp is high enough impedance, should be able to run it just like another pickup. Putting a buffer in between isn't super complex anyway.

http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/around-yorkshire/local-stories/rare-instrument-to-take-centre-stage-1-5659914

With piezos, the impedance load on them is really important, needs to be really high, so would need to check the impedance on the preamp. I've jsut used a piezo bridge, and a Super hard on style buffer.

Yeah, that's that transparency thing. Whatever you put into a Marshall, Marshall comes out. If there is a problem with the sound through a transparent amp, then the problem is at source, rather than the amp.

Should run it through a Hiwatt, I know he has them. Transparency is a better showcase for a bass.

90% sure a passive three band tone stack is going to be too lossy to use in a guitar without some active gain added somewhere.

Gain factor of 100 is different thing to 100%, 100% wouldn't be very much. Basic valve testers aren't super expensive, come up fairly often, I ahve a spare one, only not stuck it up for sale because I have one I'm used to using and two with better features, but I'm not familiar with, not committed settings for common valves to memory etc. They'll tell you if the valve is basically right, and amp plus ears should do the rest.

Ruby are rebranded whatever, most I've seen are Shuguang, you can get Shuguang really cheap. I have to bin 2 or 3 from every 24, probably same thing Ruby does.

Most 15s will be dead at full power from the amp at 4 ohm.

Volume doesn't really relate to watts, chances are the 8 ohm kappalite will be louder than whatever was use before, they have high sensitivity. Almost certainly no benefit in a 4 ohm cab with a single 15.

That's a solid state head so an 8 ohm load will be fine.

Switch sides so the speakers are closest together. And put the other cab on end, so speaker is higher, closer still that way.

Some stuff is going up. There is a drop in the prices stuff gets on ebay as soon as the weather improves.

Look like different cabs, and not crossed over, so bad parts are mixing cabs, an splitting low frequency sources, but its probably not far enough split to cause issue, and angles means better mids monitoring, unless the split makes a mess right at ear level, better have them as cclose together as possible, so they act as one across biggest frequency range, and use matching cabs.