lettsguitars

A router would definately do the job. One way to do it by double sided taping an mdf straight edge along your neck, wide enough to comfortably hold the router without any rocking, set the depth with a bearing guided cutter (any old size will do) and off you go. Make sure your binding is wider than the channel and scrape it flush after gluing. Theres a ton of ways to do most things and whatever you think will work will probably work if you have a practical and mechanical mind. The purfling cutter and chisel would work also (binding was around before routers dont you know). Dremels are rubbish for woodwork. Unstable and easy to slow down. Well, mine is anyway. Only ever gets used for polishing frets and the odd cut off for brass parts. No disrespect to stewmac at all but most of their stuff is available at b&q under a different name. Stewmac make some awesome stuff. The problem with doing this on a radiused board is the channel not being square. There are obviously specialised cutters for the job which i'm not sure would make the job any easier. Unless the board is flat.

[quote name='Stacker' timestamp='1328558128' post='1529130'] No, I.m talking about the Jazz in this thread, the Cornwall one. [/quote] Shucks. I guess there a a few of them around. Confusion abounds.

furniture polish is the all time best way to remove sticky sh**t from any finish. lighter fluids (naptha) and white spirit could cause all kinds of mess. And you end up with a nice smelling bass. Ladle it on and leave it for 15 minutes, wipe and repeat.

Check the othe 1962 jazz bass threads! It was sold privately for 50 grand!

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' timestamp='1328554960' post='1529046'] It's all about the playability for me, and considering how many strings I need (I haven't gigged my 4 string since getting my 5+ strings). Tone? I'll sound like whatever the sound guy feels like, but as long as I can play it well I'll sound like me. [/quote]Tone is 90% technique. Good on ya! In the words of carl thompson "the only thing a heavy piece of wood is gonna give you is a double hernia."

from 20 to 1.8? bargain!????

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1328279163' post='1524879'] I've practiced using my third finger for years and I don't notice any loss of control or dynamic range when I do so. [/quote] That to me is the key to 3 fingers. Getting that 3rd finger to acheive a level dynamic with the rest. Concentrate on that and the rest will fall into place.

budget?

what did he use for the headstock? The burnt out skull? How weird and morbid!

My highest bid is 50 grand. Don't think i'll win it though.

[quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1328550440' post='1528946'] I can play with it standing for 3-4 hours. Truckstop [/quote] say no more

[quote name='nugget' timestamp='1328548904' post='1528900'] Sorry to steal the thread - Mr Letts - Your mate at IMP (or is it you?) has some preamps (and tasty pups) shown but no details, specs and prices, any plans to update the website?? [/quote]Tell me about it. I keep tellin him but, what can you do? I'll mention it, again. Thanks.

Just get some yellow and amber laquer pigment and experiment.

What can i say. Fenders were designed in the days when men were MEN! (and easily pleased)

[quote name='Gust0o' timestamp='1328547624' post='1528867'] Bugger... this is all great information, by the way. The bugger is that the front of the headstock is already painted. Any way of telling what they would have used, in terms of matching laquer? Or should I just mask it off, and spray the rear and the neck? Would be good to know how I should treat the sides of the fingerboard too. Lacquer those bits too? It's like I said in my build thread, there's a lot more to think about than you first reckon! So thanks for the advice chaps! [/quote]Oh god yea. laquer the lot mate. Spray it over the frets and everything! Put a spot of cellulose thinners on a tiny area, if it wets up you got nitro and it will dry off and you're good to go. If it just wipes off with no effect it's something else. You can shoot some acrylic clear over the colour to be sure and then laquer it. That is, i think you can acrylic over poly.

[quote name='nugget' timestamp='1328547516' post='1528862'] [url="http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htm"]http://www.geocities...dio/index_e.htm[/url] Been looking into this a lot for a very interesting upcoming project..... Above link is the diagram and the same site has a cool LC calculator for working out values etc. The gibson ripper bass has a 5 position mid cut and schematics are available on internet. A lot has been written on passive mid cut and the concensus is it's not really viable/useful. The use of bandwidth filters cuts output significantly and there is a lot of interaction between std 'tone' cut and any mid cut imposed. A GOOD transparent preamp should sound exactly the same with controls flat as in passive mode (not many preamps do!!) and therefore a GOOD active mid boost/cut wont loose any tone?? [/quote]Active mids are gooood. Especially mid freq which is a lot of fun to twiddle.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1328546852' post='1528839'] User nugget on here has offered to carve a binding channel for me for a very reasonable price - but it's on a defretted neck which I won't be refretting. The bindings should be do-able with a Dremel if you're careful, I'd have thought? I might have a go at this on my 'practice' neck. I'm not convinced by the stickers in photos myself, though perhaps they look better in real life. I think the stickers work much better on the VMs presumably because they're black, and under a layer of lacquer. [/quote]Good lad. Will be tough to keep it straight i would have thought, on a radiused board. You could probably set up a jig for the job but even then a little risky. Good luck!

Yes.

Not sure about this. We had a request for a passive mid boost/cut button but had to go active in the end. The only way we thought it could work was if the pickup had seperate different shaped coils. Didn't work. The pups ended up too quiet and the tonal difference was inaudible. If anyone has an answer i'd love to know the secret.

The glaring point that pokes me in the brain is this. Someone here has already said it to some degree, but here we are. The humans that work at fodera are just that, human. They are not supermen and they can only acheive the same results as many many other instrument makers. Do they know something others don't? No they don't. The answer is again, solely down to aesthetics and demand for the look and style of their instruments which strikes a chord with a lot of players who have the money to spend or are willing to sell their grannies to get the bass of their dreams only to sell it on basschat a few weeks later in favour of that jazz bass that has always been so faithfull (need to get their granny back and at least they had a few weeks with a fancy plank). I am certain the quality is second to none, along with a lot of other makers who cannot demand that kind of money due to a smaller/less well off market.

That's a lot of gear! At least they liked the cd!?

Plenty of colour matching techniques at stewmac. More than likely mostly for nitro though.

Cool. That's one massive deal of a gig. I did sit up and take notice of the good sound and general tightness. Sadly J.J not for me though.

Who is this infamous seller?