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Little Wing - Jimi Hendrix

I used perforated aluminium sheet with 3mm holes on the Plenty cab. While it pumps out a respectable volume of sound, I suspect that the resistance to fluid movement caused the fixing screws to ease off slightly so it sounded as if the speaker was on the way out on a recent open mic night. I took the grill off to check and it was fine, so I put it back on and tightened the screws firmly and it's still fine. However, for the 8" cab, I'm using 10mm diameter hole perforated sheet, and I may well retrofit the Plenty cab with it too.

Or grizzly bass which has a top end roll off

I think the point is what does the audience hear. drives will often sound harsh - I would be looking for a cab sim or high pass/low pass after the drives to help things sound natural through iem, and front of house. otherwise my stock answer is ss/bs mini or clone of!

That's right. That was my original question. I was thinking aloud really. It's not something I've ever done but posed the queestion, knowing we have some very qualified folk on here. As ever, they came up trumps (small t!!!!).

Indeed, probably the case with anything that uses vactrols too these days.

Turn To The Left - Weeds https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=kuwqBTtksXE&list=OLAK5uy_ndYGasfVeThrrJk_kGaM6kSd4Ex5auxSw

Try here my friend. https://thegita.co.uk/product-category/all-guitars/all-bass-guitars/

The speaker specs will tell you the maximum cone excursion, Xmax, which for this driver is 5.5 mm. Sometimes they give a separate larger figure for the excursion where damage will occur, but I think if we go past Xmax that means we’re into the realm of abusing the speaker anyway. So the cone should move at most 5.5 mm forward (or backward) from its rest position, add a couple of mm for (waves hands) stuff, and I guess that should be fine. I don’t think the size of the holes matters acoustically, but guess the percentage that is hole rather than not hole might do? I’d say picture what a speaker grille usually looks like and go for something not too different from that. You want to avoid the grille vibrating too much at an annoying frequency, so I would probably mount it as rigidly as you can. I screwed mine to blocks round the edge of the baffle and one in between the speaker and port and that seems fine.

I wish they wouldn't too, but at least on that with the dark wood it doesn't show as much as when it is maple.

No need, the resistance of even 1mm2 copper core is less than 0.02 ohms/meter. And as John says the amp rating for cable is based on continuous, sustained current. That means running it at that rating for long enough that it reaches temperature equilibrium, and failure mode is by melting the insulation. You just wouldn't ever reach anything near that in a speaker. Given that flexibility isn't that useful or desirable inside a speaker, I just use offcuts of T&E after tripping off the outer insulation

Have I the right - The Honeycombs (with a Burns endorsement 😁)

Please explain your signal chain a bit: is the OD after the bass, do you use wireless, or cable, what's the bass... OD/dist/fuzz may behave in a different way depending on the bass output impedance (hi-Z, or lo-Z). I have different pedals for different basses. It took quite a long time to find a suitable fuzz to a lo-Z bass (i.e. with a battery powered preamp).

I get that. I think I probably misunderstood the thread title. I thought it was suggesting soldering the wires into the terminal, not just adding solder to the wire ends.